Chris_Top_Her Build Thread 2

I don't remember how it was in your case, but after lowering the end links were to long?
 
The stock links were too long to safely e used on max stiff. They were at their limit and at a very acute angle. One of them ended up popping.
 
However, your Autoexe end links were too short to be used with CS Swaybar? Hence you did modify the inner bar by lengthening it a little bit? Is it correct that you have to adjust the length so that the swaybar is parallel to the ground? So, depending on how lowered your car is, the adjustable end link is used to compensate the angle the bar made?
 
The auto exe endlinks were too short to be used on max stiff with the C/S bar and H&R springs. It should be noted that the bar was revised between the time I installed modified links and now (I was sent a modified bar free of charge). The newer bar has a slightly longer lever arm on it, however I believe the situation would still be the same with the combo I had. Yes. The middle bar is simply a tapped bar with a 17mm hex carved on it to hold it. The default location, and one that won't have the bar knock the chassis is roughly parallel; no more than 25 degrees I'd say. Wth the stock links and H&r springs c/s bar at max I was at about 45 deg which was enough to snap the oem endlink end (it's assembled with plastic). Basically, look at the oem level position of the oem set up and duplicate that angle as best as possible and there will be no issues.
 
If you were so off with the H&R springs, then I should be even in worse situation, right?
Why CS, would say that it should fit as factory?
 
With the C/S springs the autoexe link may work as it is. I use the auto exe rod with my BC's. You will just have to see.
 
You sure you can boost your engine with 13-1 compression because Mazda didn't. Read here about Mazdas new turbocharged 2.5 with 10.1 compression. http://www.automobilemag.com/features/news/deep-dive-inside-the-mazda-skyactiv-2-5t-turbo-engine/

FTFY.

I read somewhere that Mazda tried very hard (and succeeded) in avoid wasting fuel on rich combustion under high load with the new engine. Mazda also worked hard to make the new engine efficient under high load.
Chris just wants some extra power and a fun project to work on and likely doesn't care much about efficiency.

Obviously he isn't going to see 310lb/ft of torque at 2000RPM, but by injecting some extra fuel and running rich, it'll definitely be possible to run some boost.
 
FTFY.

I read somewhere that Mazda tried very hard (and succeeded) in avoid wasting fuel on rich combustion under high load with the new engine. Mazda also worked hard to make the new engine efficient under high load.
Chris just wants some extra power and a fun project to work on and likely doesn't care much about efficiency.

Obviously he isn't going to see 310lb/ft of torque at 2000RPM, but by injecting some extra fuel and running rich, it'll definitely be possible to run some boost.

Seems plausible but its good that he knows this before getting too deep into it, just in case. 13-1 compression is a lot for a turbocharged engine so I'd imagine the boost will be low and the air fuel ratio very rich just to make it work without rings breaking from pre-ignition and detonation. If the mixture is too rich than it can lead to carbon buildup and shorten the life of some components as a result such as 02 sensors, catalytic converters, and EGR valves. It will also lead to carbon buildup within the combustion chambers, which will raise compression even higher and lead to issues with pre-ignition. A rich air fuel ratio can also lead to cylinder wash and glaze the cylinder walls, although it would need to be very rich for extended periods of time. So the point of this isnt to bash him for making the effort but to educate him about what Mazda is doing, which he probably already knows anyway.
 
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Pretty much got my coilovers set at proper height/preload, front camber and now with the Hardrace camber arm, rear camber set as to avoid rubbing the fender under heavy dips. Went ahead and got new alignment and new tires now that eveything is sorted out.


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You sure you can boost your engine with 13-1 compression because Mazda couldn't. Read here about Mazdas new turbocharged 2.5 with 10.1 compression. http://www.automobilemag.com/features/news/deep-dive-inside-the-mazda-skyactiv-2-5t-turbo-engine/

Man I love looking at these old posts that talk about can't do this can't do that, and then it's been done.. multiple sky's have been boosted as far as I know up to 7 psi. One motor was 90whp gain at 5 psi. Same thing with availability of aftermarket parts, which for the cx5 there are many many
 
Man I love looking at these old posts that talk about can't do this can't do that, and then it's been done.. multiple sky's have been boosted as far as I know up to 7 psi. One motor was 90whp gain at 5 psi. Same thing with availability of aftermarket parts, which for the cx5 there are many many

And then there are others that spun a rod bearing trying.
 
I applaud people for pushing the boundaries (and this is not restricted to just modding cars) of the CX-5. If everyone played it safe and did the same thing, the world will be a very boring place.
 
And then there are others that spun a rod bearing trying.

Nice try smart ass, but that actually had nothing to do with psi, compression ratio or anything else commonly cited as to why the sky g couldn't be turbod. The trial parts ( which didn't even represent 50% of a complete turbo set up)had been removed for almost two months. Had the set up been complete, and the compressor even connected to the motor, your comment *might* have some merit, except that spun bearings are typically oil related problems. Boost problems usually involve bent, burned, melted, ejected, fouled parts, or "blown" parts. My comment still stands and can be validated by posts throughout the history of this sub forum.
 
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And on top of that, mazda actually has a 2.0 13 or 14:1 racing engine that is boosted putting out over 400hp, even when that post was originally made by v8.
 
Chris, what is going on with your engine? Any updates?

Oil level was too low, spun bearing. What i thought was adequate from the dip stick apparently was not. Same at the dealer who marked my oil level as good when I was having my tensioner replaced (check yours). I should have the motor on order Monday or Tuesday. I can see why so many people talk about overfilled oil from the dealer, it can be a sketchy read with the lightweight oil; better safe than sorry. Even after draining oil the dips tick comes out with confusing results. The stick itself sits next to the balance out of a little shaft right by the oil pump and chain. It's always gonna get oiled.
 
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That's unfortunate. Just curious how come you didn't go with a WRX or Forester XT since the get go? Or some other turbo charged vehicle?
 
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