Chris_Top_Her CX-5 Build Thread

I think they were trying to use similar fueling to the sky 3's (1st gen) they are tuning, however the results were not working well because of fueling differences. So now they have a more relevant source for defining the fuel tables opposed to trying to do it from scratch (remotely).
 
How do you like the MIT hood struts? Was thinking about picking them up. Ebay for $75 seem right?
 
How do you like the MIT hood struts? Was thinking about picking them up. Ebay for $75 seem right?
They work well. I was hoping they would alleviate the hood shake a bit more than the dealer fix would, but they don't make a difference in that respect. Very nice to not have to use that stick. I think there are some on ali express for like $50 now but MIT is good customer service (theya ctually sent me a new set free of charge) because one of the ball sockets broke when I was trying to reinstall it after a few months of not using them.
 
Well, my tune has been going slow. About a month ago Dynotronics bought a CX-5 and are (as told by a rep/calibrator from DT) working on decompiling the ECU and defining all tables from scratch.
 
Whats next mate, cmon i'm not seeing much action of late and I enjoy your posts, Build Build Build
 
Whats next mate, cmon i'm not seeing much action of late and I enjoy your posts, Build Build Build

I have to hold off on big buys for a bit, the next ~ 2 months is going to be a big decider in what I do in the next 5 months.. may not even be in the US. It's possible I may be going to Qatar until spring semester starts if I can't complete this first stage of my flight training before fall (thanks unserviceable aircraft/students who break them). If I go I won't be driving/taking my car lol. The only thing on my radar right now are the Hotchkiss bracket since the energy suspension ones are crap. and bending again. lol I was thinking if I do end up having to skip a semester and experience Qatar, maybe the cx-5 diesel will be out (maybe I'll have a chance to drive the diesel myself (drive2)
 
Ok, now that I got the beefy brackets on, I decided to try the stiffest setting. Firstly, my car is lowered; this changes the preload on the links. Well, the preload from being lowered is too much for the OEM links, and I broke one. I have replaced it and am using the softer setting instead. It is still much better with the stronger bracket. I will be looking into getting an adjustable link within the next 30 days, because I really liked the stiffer setting. That being said, anyone using a Corksport/JBR sway bar with oem ride height should be safe for any setting... however, if you are lowered count on using the softest setting until you get (longer) adjustable links to relieve some of the preload.

 
Went by the dealer today. No one is town has a mazda 6 rear upper arm, only the cx-5's so I can't do a side by side comparison. Interestingly enough, from the diagrams it appears that the bushing insert is the only difference.. however I'd like to compare in person.
 
Another possible issue is that the holes on the Corksport bar are bigger than the end link studs. This will allow some movement of the stud within the bar (not matter how much you tighten the nuts). I am going to take some measurements before I go back to work so I can fabricate some bushings to take up the difference.

I don't know how your sway bar came, but mine had stickers across both of the holes that give the stiffer setting saying not to use them. Maybe Corksport knows something about what you experienced.
 
Another possible issue is that the holes on the Corksport bar are bigger than the end link studs. This will allow some movement of the stud within the bar (not matter how much you tighten the nuts). I am going to take some measurements before I go back to work so I can fabricate some bushings to take up the difference.

I don't know how your sway bar came, but mine had stickers across both of the holes that give the stiffer setting saying not to use them. Maybe Corksport knows something about what you experienced.

Doesn't change that I have extra preload from being lowered. Removing preload will increase my bars effectiveness even on the first hole. I just need a picture of the stock end link/bar angle to get an appropriate link size. Autoexe offers and adjustable endlink but it's like $200, noty, I can get them for much much cheaper if I have an idea of the size needed. Any yea, the holes, basically it's like you said when you lowered your car and you heard the pop; the bar moved the wrong direction (I'm assuming you are bolting the end link to the frame when the wheels are on the ground). The issue with being lowered is that the preload makes my link sit at over 60deg angle on the second hole.. even as is it's about 45. You shouldn't have any issue with yours with the stock ride height.
 
My bad. I reread the post and the link should be as close to vertical as possible. Although near as I can tell with the wheel still on that the links on my 15 are at a slight angle. All of this should be looked at with the suspension fully loaded.
 
My bad. I reread the post and the link should be as close to vertical as possible. Although near as I can tell with the wheel still on that the links on my 15 are at a slight angle. All of this should be looked at with the suspension fully loaded.
Thanks, I've read some thing about the link begin as close to vertical with this type of sway bar/link assembly, however I needed confirmation so that I can avoid the bar swinging into the chassis. A picture has been supplied to me to confirm this on the cx-5.
 
Sorry.. not wanting to derail your thread... you just reminded me of some work on my old Explorer a few weeks back. I broke one of these too. They were so rusted on there I had to use a sawzall to cut them off. $20 in parts and an hour of my time and back in business.
Good deal, the link costed me $40, but from what I've noticed is dealer usually adds about 50% markup (they even gave me a printout with the cost/price lol on some camber arms $50 cost $90 sell).
 
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