Chris_Top_Her CX-5 Build Thread

edited, it's for the 2012 mz 3 skyactiv, and from hat I've been able to gather from a mazda 3 forum that's even skeptical... along with MSDS not being able to give me good information

Does the exhaust alter the sound of the engine at highway speeds when passing?

Curious about how the exhaust effects the driving experience. Considering it as an only mod?
 
Does the exhaust alter the sound of the engine at highway speeds when passing?

Curious about how the exhaust effects the driving experience. Considering it as an only mod?

The exhaust tone is deeper and a bit louder at high rpm so yes it would. Using an sri and the exhaust about doubles it.

here is a video I made (outside the car) with a $30 dash cam I got from aliexpress. Keep in mind this is sri and exhaust though
 

The exhaust tone is deeper and a bit louder at high rpm so yes it would. Using an sri and the exhaust about doubles it.

here is a video I made (outside the car) with a $30 dash cam I got from aliexpress. Keep in mind this is sri and exhaust though

Wow! That sounds great. Thanks.

I would expect some of that comes through to the interior, which I think would be a good thing.
 
Wow! That sounds great. Thanks.

I would expect some of that comes through to the interior, which I think would be a good thing.

To me yea, im sure the auto transmits more than the manual
 
Cocksport ear Sway bar came in today. I went to install it but there is no way for me to access the bushing bracket without dropping the suspension. Not something I can do in my garage or something I want to mess around with at the autohobby shop. Gonna get it installed at the dealer tomorrow.

 
Why would you performance tune a grocery getter?

Especially a drivetrain built for fuel economy...

because I'm not baller enough yet to have 2 $30000 cars yet, otherwise like you I'd have a wrx or something as well (actually I'd get an rx-7). Lol and really, people tune all sorts of cars, you can tune a "econo box" mazda 2 and get great performance from it. Everything isn't about driving fast in a straight line.
 
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I'm with you Chris on this one. I don't consider my car a grocery getter car. In a week, I will be 47(!), and my lower back is shot also(herniated disc).
Corksport springs are on the way.
Could you elaborate on the issue with the sway bar? I was planning to buy this next and install it myself. I did it on the 08' VW that I had. it was a pain though to install it.
I like to have fun when I'm driving. Taking curves faster then I should, be the fastest from a stop light, etc. With the much better MPGs I can have more fun, then with my ex 08' VW. I was getting 20MPGs with that car.
 
With my AWD version (it may be different for FWD), the sway bar bracket itself is 1. very close (about an inch) to the body 2. the bolts for the bracket are almost impossible to access without dropping the rear suspension. I'm pretty sure this consists of just 4 bolts; 2 bolts that hold the first half of the rear control arm to the body (which have to be removed anyways) and the other two which hold the second part of the rear control arm to the body. Once you drop both you should have enough room for the removal of the bracket. That was my observation; you may actually have to remove more, but the instructions provided by corksport will not cut it (at least for the AWD). You will need a lift that will allow you to hang the rear suspension to get this done smoothly, a floor jack and stands will probably not cut it unless you have like a 2 or 3 foot jack. I don't mine is only 13". Here is a link to the install instructions, and even in their picture you can see how close the bracket is. What you cannot see is how far and obstructed access to the bracket actually is.

http://www.corksport.com/corksport-2013-mazda-cx5-rear-sway-bar.html

edit I just checked the service manual.. for AWD it specifies removal of the propshaft. The instructions provided by C/S coincide with the FWd removal in the service manual.
 
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Thanks for the link, I have forgot to check there on how to do it. This swap has to be done, while I replace the springs. I don't want to take things apart twice.
 
if you have AWD, don't even consider it unless you are installing it yourself. I am returning it. The instruction provided are for the fwd only; you have to drop the entire rear assembly and remove the propshaft, along with unhooking all the wiring that run along the arms. Dealer quoted 195 but they didn't realize it was awd; price went to 560 (+ 90 to align as required). I purchased it intending to install it myself, based on the instructions (which are only for the FWD).
 
I use my CX-5 almost exclusively when going to grocery store.

Chris-top-her - btw I do like your latest set of wheels, looks great.
 
I use my CX-5 almost exclusively when going to grocery store.

Chris-top-her - btw I do like your latest set of wheels, looks great.

Thanks. Really disappointed in Corksport though and the lack of relevant information on that products page. I wanted that RSB was all happy when I got it and was even willing to shell out an (unexpected) install fee. Part of the basis of my purchase was that I would be able to install it myself and avoid an install fee. Too bad the instructions I used as a basis were not the correct ones for the product/drivetrain combo listed as an option. s*** happens though and even though it's not the first product issue I've had with C/S, not many are actually putting out stuff for this car (or skyactiv) so sometimes things are just learned the hard way (as long as things don't break).
 
Mine is FWD.
There is another company here that sells these RSB. Those are for FWD only also?
 
Chris, you have your DRL and and fogs listed as 5000K...

I've searched around and am still not clear about how one arrives at those numbers. Your DRL are LED equivalents, right? What about the fogs? HID kits or halogen equivalent bulbs?

What are your recommended brands for each type of light/kit?
 
Chris, you have your DRL and and fogs listed as 5000K...

I've searched around and am still not clear about how one arrives at those numbers. Your DRL are LED equivalents, right? What about the fogs? HID kits or halogen equivalent bulbs?

What are your recommended brands for each type of light/kit?

The number is the color temperature. Basically, the lower the temp the more yellow. As you get to 5000 its white, then it goes bluish up to purple. I found that when comparing LED to HIDS, a 6000k hid is about the same white as a 5000k LED. A 5000k HID is still yellowish. As far as brands, I believe I used VLEDs for the switchbacks, superbirghtLEDS.com for the position lights, I wanna say ebay for the fogs, and either ebay or vled for the DRL. A note about LED drl's of the correct specification; sometimes the housing is like a mm too long you will need to saw it down so that the connectors can make contact. I melted it down with a solder iron.
 
Oh. I will be installing the RSB. C/S added AWD instructions and basically, the service manual instructions are the "remove everything that you don't really need to and remove extra risk so even a lousy mechanic won't damage the customers s***". The C/S instructions are very simple and to the point.
 
Thanks for the LED clarification. The VLED P13W seem to be the gold standard for DRL, so I'll probably go with those.

Are your eBay fogs the ones with the two giant CREE diodes on each? If not, how many diodes? Did they fit without hitting the little cone inside the light? I believe you mentioned removing the cone also. If so, did you cut it or were you able to unscrew it?
 
My Mechanic friend who works for a mazda dealership has had to order in a special alignment jig for the rear sub frame to hold it in perfect shape once removed from car , as its got an electronic diff if you drop it down without having it in perfect alignment and install it not quite perfect the sensors for the diff could get a bit confused from what I understand , So I have mine being done next weekend with the alignmnent pin Jig .
 
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