air filter direct to turbo

Once I moved my maf to the pressure side, my aem cai was a sri. And after about 30min of driving in the summer weather, the car felt like s***. So i bought a 2.75in pipe and coverted my intake back to cai. I didnt think that it would make a difference but it did. Just my .02
 
short ram cold air intake....best of both worlds

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If you change you radiator and get electric fans mounted on the outside of the engine bay, there's plenty of room... check out 505zoom (lots of room)...
 
.......Making the IAT work is as simple as drilling a large enough hole to fit the gromit and sensor in the piping, and soldering in some wire to extend its reach. I wouldn't settle for less than soldered connections on anything sensor related. For those of you who aren't very inclined to solding connections, they make solder strips that you wrap around the wires and heat w/ a lighter that accomplishes about the same thing but is much more user friendly............
IDK what degree bend those are, but I would guess it's part of a 90 on the big piece, and probably a 45 or 60 degree on the small one.
estimated cost...I'm guessing the price on piping and misc. supplies you may need

Piping- 10-30$ for bends on ebay X 2
Couplers- 7$ for 2.75-" X 1
" " - 22-28$ for 2.75-2.5" X 1
AEM dryflow filter- 40$ X 1
MISC. clamps, solder, paint, -10$

Est. Total=100$.......you could probably find cheaper couplings and a cheaper filter and get away w/ paying around 75$ if the piping cost is resonable. I would do it right the 1st time
 
Yeah... Thats a great spot, right under the tranny... So much space for air. I might try that and put some kinda scoop... (thumb)
 
byohndspeed said:
ok i will be running my maf on the cold side by the throttle body. i have an air filter (k&n) that will fit directly to the turbo. i have seen this before on other turbo's. is there any gain?i would think that it would help the spool up time. i will be running the highboost fmic. 3" from the s-pipe back and 8psi.

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I have my MAF on the cold pipe. Currently running half of the AEM CAI(SRI conversion i guess you would say). I just got a OBD scantool that supposedly does road dyno, it wouldn't be super accurate, but I could give it a try just hooking my filter straight to the turbo and testing it.

It would have the added benefit of stopping my intake from banging against my hot pipe too. (boom01)

I will say I agree with the logic of that article. The only question is how much different would the air temps really be, and if any increases in airflow can offset the difference in temps.
 
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peepsalot said:
I have my MAF on the cold pipe. Currently running half of the AEM CAI(SRI conversion i guess you would say). I just got a OBD scantool that supposedly does road dyno, it wouldn't be super accurate, but I could give it a try just hooking my filter straight to the turbo and testing it.

It would have the added benefit of stopping my intake from banging against my hot pipe too. (boom01)

I will say I agree with the logic of that article. The only question is how much different would the air temps really be, and if any increases in airflow can offset the difference in temps.


Another factor to consider would be air turbulance. My perception of how a turbo would want to intake air is like how the tornado forms from the science class experiment with 2 liter bottles attached to eachother and one is filled w/ water. The smoothest flow is achieved when the top bottle is spining the water around like a wirlpool, and the rate of flow (IIRC) seemed to peak when the bottle wasn't too full or empty.
I see the filter being directly on the turbo as being like the water going from one bottle to another without the 'wirlpool' there. It isn't very smooth (and not to mention the hot air that gets blown on it isn't helping any too).

It makes sense to me that a short distance of piping would be enough to let the turbo form a smooth suction on outside air and still maintain a flow rate similar to a direct setup. In a sense, the piping would parallel whether or not the bottle was spun as well how much water is in the bottle.

IDK if that makes any sense to you........I base that idea off the results of when I first made my intake and had put a sharp 90 degree bend right before the turbo. The bend was like the 90 I traced in the previous post above, but the straight section was longer (The design was similar to the perrin SRI). Doing so took a lot of the smoothness out of acceleration in higher rpms. When I reversed the piece( looked like the real pic. minus the 45 or 60 degree bend), it was a night and day difference. I assumed that air turbulance was culprit and having the straight section in the turbo allowed for a vortex to form......
 
I got a great idea...










Get one of these:
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It's called a tornado. Install it after the turbo... Also it will save you on gas...

(stooges)
I'm just kidding...
 
ZenProtege said:
the turbine makes the air spin into a vortex too

Not really, the outlet is off axis with the turbine. I think you are really loosing perspective. You are talking about 0.0001% loss to flow.
 
my first intake I bought was a perrin. now that I think of it... you think it would work better to have the perrin intake comming from the bottom of the engine bay to the turbo

If you just had a filter on the perrin. cause it has issues with the maf being right near the bypass bung hole (lol)... BIG ISSUES... So if there was no MAF there cause it would be on the cold boost pipe, maybe it would run much much better... All you gotta do then would be to plug the bypass hole/bung whatever on the intake pipe...(scratch)
 
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