Plus didnt someone say that it comes at 23 psi and u have to adjust the gate down? based on what ive read it sounds like overboosting. did this person even have a boost gauge?
3076R Install
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Plus didnt someone say that it comes at 23 psi and u have to adjust the gate down? based on what ive read it sounds like overboosting. did this person even have a boost gauge?
yashart_mp3
Member
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- Black Mica MS3
Maxx, I have to agree with Brian on this one, as he really is correct.
Even in my own example, I pointed out exactly how he is correct...
"Forced induction does exactly what you said, "increase the pressure" within the cylinders. Although you cannot change the volume of the cylinders, you can change amount of air being forced into that cylinder."
The unit of measure for the amount of air being pressurized into the cylinder is PSI. And exactly like he said, 7 PSI = 7 PSI.
Take a step back and look at it in a elementary level. Take an empty 2 liter soda bottle. Now if you can use a hair dryer to fill stuff it with air, or you can use an air compressor. Either way, once its filled and becomes pressurized, that pressure is measured in PSI. It doesn't matter what is creating that pressure, the pressure inside the bottle is the same, no matter what you used to fill it. 7psi = 7psi
Maximum Boost by Corky Bell
Chapter 3, pages 26 to 30
I don't want to type that many pages, I'll post the main highlight:
"Compressor Efficiency. In concept, compressor effieceny is a measure of how well the compressor wheel can pump air without heating the air more than thermodynamic laws say it should... All compressor wheels operate within peak percentage efficiencies in the seventies. Choosing compressor size becomes mostly a question of where that compressor's efficiency peaks with respect to the flow capabilities of the engine/turbo system."
Even in my own example, I pointed out exactly how he is correct...
"Forced induction does exactly what you said, "increase the pressure" within the cylinders. Although you cannot change the volume of the cylinders, you can change amount of air being forced into that cylinder."
The unit of measure for the amount of air being pressurized into the cylinder is PSI. And exactly like he said, 7 PSI = 7 PSI.
Take a step back and look at it in a elementary level. Take an empty 2 liter soda bottle. Now if you can use a hair dryer to fill stuff it with air, or you can use an air compressor. Either way, once its filled and becomes pressurized, that pressure is measured in PSI. It doesn't matter what is creating that pressure, the pressure inside the bottle is the same, no matter what you used to fill it. 7psi = 7psi
Maximum Boost by Corky Bell
Chapter 3, pages 26 to 30
I don't want to type that many pages, I'll post the main highlight:
"Compressor Efficiency. In concept, compressor effieceny is a measure of how well the compressor wheel can pump air without heating the air more than thermodynamic laws say it should... All compressor wheels operate within peak percentage efficiencies in the seventies. Choosing compressor size becomes mostly a question of where that compressor's efficiency peaks with respect to the flow capabilities of the engine/turbo system."
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- MP5T / 944
I agree with you that it's more likely not the tune..
Sorry about you blowing you motor. It hurts. I should know first hand.
Motors can blow anytime. Its not high rpm that blows a motor, it's a terrible a/f ratio and map that blows your motor. Heck, you can blow a motor on start up if your map is way off the charts. For some reason, your ecu didn't compensate like it did for the other MS6s.
This could be highly possible also.
ive removed lots of turbos and theres not enough oil in the center housing to cause the engine to blow up. same with coolant, yes it might be lower (coolant) but you'd have to be on the verge of overheating to notice a difference (unless he dumped a gallon on the ground)
he could have dumped but hes smart enough to install a turbo i doubt it was a fluid issue. well id hope it wasnt a coolant issue lol. that needle shoots up pretty fast when theres no coolant.
Maxx, from what I read, there is no disagreement except for how you explain "why it does create more power?"
I think what you're thinking is that no matter how much air the hairdryer can blow, the engine can only "process" or "use" so much of it, and therefore 18psi is 18psi. I just don't see that.
Agree to disagree?
(Answer)
I was more leaning toward lack of oil in his motor. His oil pressure could have been low to begin with.
Its possible. Rich afr's CAN kill a motor. If you're running overly rich, overtime you can wash you piston rings out. When this happens, you now have fuel mixing with oil. Boom Boom.
Thats exactly what happened to my first LS/vtec motor. Ran to rich. Washed the rings out. Got fuel and oil mixture in the cylinders. Then poof...(exactly how it sounded lol)
BTW, after reading all this knowledgable info, I do believe that a tune may not have been the problem.
Anywho, I'll be looking for to your build.
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ahh, indeed.
InlineTwin
Member
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- Mazdaspeed6
Buy a boost gauge...I mean when you've rebuilt your motor and all.
(stoned)
(stoned)
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- MP5T / 944
^^^ It would have been nice to see how much boost was on the load.
InlineTwin
Member
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- Mazdaspeed6
It really is the obvious answer. I just dont understand why you would install a $1600 turbo and boost (fuel) cut killer and not install a boost controller along with something to measure the boost. (drunk)
He can look at it this way though: at least he didn't blow it up on the dyno while he was paying for the time!
He can look at it this way though: at least he didn't blow it up on the dyno while he was paying for the time!
chriscecc914
Member
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- 06 MS6
my boost guage/controller came in the day after i did my turbo install. i thought if i didnt go full throttle or take it over 4000rpm it wouldnt matter. And i was planning on taking to a dyno to get an afr/boost reading before i drove the car hard. but it didnt last that long
i did have lack of coolant but it was refilled after the needle was on its way up to H
and it all suddenly makes sense...
forrestang
Member
I don't know what ATP ships the 76R turbo with?
But the 71R comes with an 18psi WGA. They figure in an approximate 3psi drop acrosss the IC, and your car should boost close to 15.5 psi.
This was the case when I first installed my 71R, with the only form of boost controll being the WGA hooked direct to pressure source.
I've since swapped out that 18psi WGA, for a custom mounted 7psi WGA to more resemble the stock BC setup. I've got everything plumbed to control boost through my EMS.
ATP is a bunch of turds with crappy customer service IMO.....
forrestang
Member
Either way.....as we've been saying for this ENTIRE thread, this rod failure had nothing to do with a tune.
pHeeL tHiZ ViBe
Member
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- Mazdaspeed6
really...thats interesting. does anyone have pictures of the stock internals? i always imagined mazda using some forged pieces of s***.
buy the nicest internals you can, don't go cheap on your rebuild. i mean you already have a nice turbo..so you might as well build it so you can use that turbo to its fullest (burnout)
think internals and a standback...at that point you would have the nicest MS6 out there IMO (headbang)
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