3076R Install

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chriscecc914

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06 MS6
Bye, Bye K04

6ak2o06.jpg


Massive upgrade!

4maivbc.jpg


Took about 10 hours of straight work

6g9eavo.jpg


3076R Installed

6bdg5cl.jpg


Getting there...

63izuc7.jpg


Finally project complete!

4yimj9e.jpg



Drove the car the next day about 3 times keeping it out of boost until i get to the dyno. Car was driving perfectly and the exhaust sxounded a little meaner (stock catback). Then the car was brought up to 4000 rpm 3/4 throttle and the 4th cylinder connecting rod snapped.(hand) So now im waiting for a forged shortblock to be released by one of the MS6 companies. It was fun while it lasted. The stock parts on this car are really bad. Axles, fuel system, motor, tranny. Mazda really wasnt thinking of us car finatics when they built this car. It was made to remain stock. Well anyways when the new motor goes in, hopefully a fuel solution will be released so i can squeeze out every pony this 3076r has to offer.
 
Wow man ... Im sorry to hear ... That sucks.

Did you have it wastegated or a MBC set? I am thinking about this mod, and am really wondering why this happened to you and not some of the others.
 
it broke because of stupidity, not poor components... slap a big turbo on and NO tune before driving it = breakage
 
I got to agree with the MAN here

it broke because of stupidity, not poor components... slap a big turbo on and NO tune before driving it = breakage

Not only that but you guys continue to forget that Mazda DOES need to think about bottom-line cost. Everything is built with tolerances in mind. They have to. If they build that car to withstand ANYTHING then it would cost twice or three times as much as it does. It's a balancing act.
 
Wow man ... Im sorry to hear ... That sucks.

Did you have it wastegated or a MBC set? I am thinking about this mod, and am really wondering why this happened to you and not some of the others.

the wastegate is set for 18psi

it broke because of stupidity, not poor components... slap a big turbo on and NO tune before driving it = breakage

you are showing how stupid you are right now. Because there are other members on this site with a 3076r that have had no problems and theyve been running for a while so keep you stupid mouth shut. Also ATP sells there kit for this car and when i called them and other websites who sell there kit they say that no tune is needed if you have the fuel cut killer. The cars rods are garbage and i have a feeling that my rod that broke was already faulty because motors usually blow at full throttle and at high rpm. 4000rpm 3/4 throttle is not going to make much more power then stock on 18psi.

ATTENTION: if you want to make stupid comments stay out of this thread.

Mazda didnt have to make there cars bullet proof. But they also dont have to make the parts out of sh*t. Look at the evo's and sti's making 400whp on stock parts.
 
those engines are also meant for rally, which is why they are stronger. Also, Evos and STI have CRAZY aftermarket support, so they can get the parts they need and know where to go to get a great tune. there are proteges here making 250+WHP on stock internals daily, there are also members that have blown the motors at stock boost(150hp?)
 
Bye, Bye K04

6ak2o06.jpg


Massive upgrade!

4maivbc.jpg


Took about 10 hours of straight work

6g9eavo.jpg


3076R Installed

6bdg5cl.jpg


Getting there...

63izuc7.jpg


Finally project complete!

4yimj9e.jpg



Drove the car the next day about 3 times keeping it out of boost until i get to the dyno. Car was driving perfectly and the exhaust sxounded a little meaner (stock catback). Then the car was brought up to 4000 rpm 3/4 throttle and the 4th cylinder connecting rod snapped.(hand) So now im waiting for a forged shortblock to be released by one of the MS6 companies. It was fun while it lasted. The stock parts on this car are really bad. Axles, fuel system, motor, tranny. Mazda really wasnt thinking of us car finatics when they built this car. It was made to remain stock. Well anyways when the new motor goes in, hopefully a fuel solution will be released so i can squeeze out every pony this 3076r has to offer.

Taken from ATP's Site
GT3076R on the 2.3L MS6 engine and should only be used on this engine if you plan to exceed 450 crank HP (or go over 22 psi of boost).

Taken from another forum:

Also, 76R is ONLY efficent when boost is 22psi and above, that is a fact.I was told this by ATP,so I ended up pre-ordering the 71R

Sorry to hear about your misfortune..Good luck on the build up.
 
Last edited:
Taken from ATP's Site
GT3071R on the 2.3L MS6 engine and should only be used on this engine if you plan to exceed 450 crank HP (or go over 22 psi of boost).

Yes, but how does this make you throw a rod? I'm just saying this guy throwing a rod has absolutely nothing to do with him not having a tune.
 
Yes, but how does this make you throw a rod? I'm just saying this guy throwing a rod has absolutely nothing to do with him not having a tune.

The problem that i see with that particular turbo is that it flows more air at 18psi than k04..and as some have already found out..the limiting factor when eclipsing the 300whp mark is you run out of fuel.

At 18 psi with an upgraded tmic (which boasts 2-3psi pressure drop) i am pretty sure he was flowing enough air to eclipse the 300whp..fuel cut is there for a reason..and since he added the atp fuel cut killer..the ecu was unable to save itself from impending demise.

It could have been a faulty rod from factory..but it would have thrown a rod allot sooner...

I am not knockin the 76..but i personally feel the 71R is the better upgrade considering the limits of the eninge and fuel system.

-C
 
wow.... man down!

sorry to hear about this..... only a day... good luck with the rebuild!
 
Officer down! Sorry to hear man. But just think now it'll be that much better!
 
men i personally think that you where low of oil or coolant, we finished doing my friends atp gt3071r turbo install. after one run the oil lebel and coolant lebel went down because there where more lines to fill, and also you where taking the turbo out full of coolant and oil. also some will drain from the line. either that or you had a leak. that will make sense why you car blwe up when it was at 4k rpm. thats just my .02 cents
 
The problem that i see with that particular turbo is that it flows more air at 18psi than k04..and as some have already found out..the limiting factor when eclipsing the 300whp mark is you run out of fuel.

At 18 psi with an upgraded tmic (which boasts 2-3psi pressure drop) i am pretty sure he was flowing enough air to eclipse the 300whp..fuel cut is there for a reason..and since he added the atp fuel cut killer..the ecu was unable to save itself from impending demise.

It could have been a faulty rod from factory..but it would have thrown a rod allot sooner...

I am not knockin the 76..but i personally feel the 71R is the better upgrade considering the limits of the eninge and fuel system.

-C

I don't think we are on the same page here?

My question was, "Yes, but how does this make you throw a rod?"

Referring specifically to him not having a tune as mentioned by a previous poster.

Bad tunes lead to things like lean A/F mixtures, and melted pistons and rings.....not broken rods. Internal combustion engines don't work that way. A bad tune usually will leave a hole in a piston, and broken rod is usually a sign of too much power, sometimes detonation.

A bad tune is not gonna make you throw a rod.
 
overboost, different spool up time, too much load, not enough fuel, bad timing...
 
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