13b cosmo

by the looks of it ots a solid rear end on the Mo's.

how did u go with the alignement?
i need to pull my finger out and get mine done.
ill prob set it up with the rx8 specs.
 
I got the series 1 rx8 settings because 09' r3 gt settings weren't available at the time.
The r3 has the closest wheelbase only a few cm's differnce width and length. don't bother with rx7 settings i had my front tires slipping in hard corners.

you can add a little camber to it aswell dependant on what type of driving your doing or keep it as is.

examples from some reading i have done.
drag car. 0 degrees front and rear negative camber
circuit. -4 front -2.5 rear. (no street cars this much it may wear other components)
tarmac rally -2 front -1 rear
drift -3 degrees front and rear.
I went with -3 degrees just at the rear. with standard 8 front settings. as i worry about grip if the rear gets tail happy, not too concerned with tires.

let us know how you go. and what the standard camber is on the 8
 
I have found that adding negative toe-in to the rear adds a lot more grip if that's what you are after. From memory I have -3 camber and -3 toe in on the rear.
 
Hi Guys,

What would you reccomend for fast road use,, not sure what settings I have
but it handles pretty good on the corners and bends for a big car at reasonable speeds 50-60mph, however,, there is always a however,, it is showing serious tyre wear on the inside front tyres and at 80 - 100 mph speeds it feels very twitchy and nervous in a straight line especially over ripples in the road something you get with rubber band sized tryes which I haven't really got and does not fill you with confidence to push it around fast bends.

I am going to see about getting it set up and would love some specs from you guys seeing as you both sound like low flying road pilots

Cheers
 
Feeling twitchy isn't a good thing...

To-in will generally help with this, so long as the front and rear alignments are spot on. Too much to-in though isn't great. I run about -1 on the front.

Do you have coil-overs? If so, your front ride height might be too low and not allow for enough travel.

Make sure that you have the front under-body tray on also. You would be surprised at how much this sucks the car down onto the road at high speed.
 
There's a lot of factors to consider, low profiles with stiffer sidewalls, along with larger rims and aftermarket suspension and springs. is extenuating the settings. I liked having a car similar with similar spec's to work from.
your always going to have to compromise one affect with another.
higher cornering grip usually means less straight line stability. or tire contact patch. the negative -3 is for lots of grip through corners. A majority of cars need a camber kit to change these settings allowing only toe adjustments.
I"m assuming you haven't touched the settings since getting the car so it's probably not symmetric at all.
you will dial it in better over time. with half degree increments. then fine tuning.
Bertys settings are optimum for what you should aim for if going very hard through corners forcing tires on their sidewalls.
putting them on immediately may be a bit of overkill. take note roughly of what is on there at a moment. and how out it is left to right.
you may have to hang around the workshop for a moment asking them a whole bunch of questions. but if you don't the mechanic will be simply guessing. make sure you state your concerns and modifications.
it's hard to give definitive answers. it's also dependent on how you drive and confidence with the car.
 
FRONT

setting min max
caster 8deg 15min 9deg 45min
camber -0deg 40min 0deg 50min
toe left&right 0deg 02min 0deg 19min
toe total 0deg 05min 0deg 38min

REAR

setting min max
camber left&right -1deg 00min 0deg 20min
toe left&right 0deg 00min 0deg 16min
toe total 0deg 00min 0deg 32min
 
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