13b cosmo

No ecu, just been flashed. its on the cards just have a fair few other things to sort out first.
i dont plan on adding any power til i get one.
consequences of a lean rotary isnt worth it.
The E8 is it a current model. just isnt listed on their site?
I'll consider it only choice is haltech motec wolf or microtech. only 4 lol
everyone seems to run microtech on rotaries
haltech can be tuned close to home but their not a strict rotary shop although they race them and have done some conversions.
dont sensors have to be changed to use haltechs, sell me on the haltech....
boost feature? they all seem the same to me honestly. apart from piggy back and standalone.
sounds like you were were sponsored (birthday)
 
rodneooo said:
Mate they all run rich as hell.
u can fck around with changing sensors etc but theres only so much better it can get.
Do u have an aftermarket computer?
if not id suggest u get one.
A stock computer is for a stock motor, esp if u have ported it a new tune is a must.
It may be rich in cruise and light loads, but ill guarantee its dangerously lean up top under high load.

Haltech e8 is the way to go, i was haltechs guinea pig for the plug n play e8 so every cosmo owner should take advantage of this.
trust me u will never look back once its set up.
it will run perfect no matter what and will save u money in the long run on petrol and plugs. talk to hitman as race solutions if your keen
Click to expand...

I thought that you used the E11v2?
 
e11 for a 20b, e8 for a 13b.


No the e8 isnt the current model but u should still be able to get it somewhere.
Talk to Hitman at Race solutions, he should be in the know about whats happening with the new model haltech. iv been out of the computer loop since i got mine 2 years ago...
 
can someone update wikipedia image. that car looks like it has a blown engine, deflated tires. and worn paint.
changed my mind. it's cool no other car has an image like that up rofl
 
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wouldnt mind one of those lsd's u listed earlier...
but that price tag scares me.

Both my 13bs were open center diffs. with decent power it either opens up and go no where with lots of smoke from that drivers side tyre.
The predictability of the car while the ass end is loose is so much better with a lsd. i thinks its a good investment.

i looked around back in the day, and the an agent asked re amimeya if they were compatible with the 13bs and they said yes. however i highly doubt it, and didnt wanna risk it at that price.

if u ever got onto the lsd topic please keep me informed. Once my rebuilt box goes back in ill def want one too.
 
which box are u referring too?
gear or lsd. break or upgrade it?
seen any other lsd's i want something that will go straight in.
everyone seems to go ford or hilux. not that keen on that. probs only be a viscous type.

a clutch based lsd is best in my opinion. but will slowly fade.
the only problem with the re one is its not 13b specific? perhaps there is one? price has recently dropped $500 problem is it will have a lower ratio probably reduce acceleration. and fabrication. airmail here will be around 700 aud$ so i'd deffinately be using sea freight.
13b is 4.3 unsure of 20b ratio.
i dont know enough about them like whether something off another car can possibly fit. im a long way from upgrading it. slow at getting parts because something else always comes up.
 
3.9 for 20b ratio. and people have fitted them too 13b's
it would improve fuel economy at acceleration cost.
 
confirmed the 20b dif will bolt straight in. for some reason you cant put a 13b in a 20b without some work. theres a cosmo on ebay rite now i asked the seller.
it's also manual looks like a good buy.
i just wonder how much acceleration difference there is going from 4.3 to 3.9
 
im refering to a rebiult gearbox that i have.

so that re lsd wont bolt up in a 13b????

i wouldnt want to change the ratios to 3.9s. it would kill the performance on the 13b... esp with auto.

it manual then it wouldnt be too bad.
 
what was the gearbox worth? did u change anything? also what killed it?
I'm getting onto my fluids in there asap although it looks clean.

no it will bolt straight in. 20b in 13b. but vice versa needs the work.
re amemiya s6 rx7 dif is 4.77, so it's probably about the same number. i think its real good being a 2way adjustable lsd. they apparently save weight. even though there would be a lot of cheaper options.

I'v been wondering about the automatic torque converter. and how technologically advanced it is.
anyone know?
if it is one that can simply be upgraded to something more efficient it would mean better fuel consumption and power at the same time. dependent on whats in there of course.
 
to rebuild the gearbos set me back about 5gs. lol EVERYTHING is changed.
built to hangle approx 300rwkw.
wasnt completely dead, but was well on its way, just general thrashing and wear and tear + more power= not a happy box.

thats good to know, yes there would be cheaper options (that re lsd would set u back over 2000 installed) but i beileive it would be the best and easiest option, no screwing around with ratios and seeing what fits.
Can we get a group buy happening for this????

stall converter is nothing special, same as every other mazda nissan and holden that use jatcos. U cant really do much besides change the stall rpm (by changing out stallies to a higher or lower one) Factory ones are usually the most efficient but dont like much power or thrashing and heat up the whole box as a result.
I wouldnt bother unless your rebuilding the box.
Changing stallies is just a trade off. with a higher stall u sacrifice drivability and economy for quicker boost and harder launch.
 
can u share what u got for that price? ratios changed?
if others are intrested in the lsd please say so.

i recently warped my front brake rotors so I'm very intrested to see how dave's upgrade goes durability wise. like i said things keep coming up.
 
looking into boost controllers. is it true that stock twins are set at 8.5 and can be raised to 14.5
i also saw that supposedly as 20b will go from 280hp too 400
when doing this is there anything to consider. apart from legality.
does anything have to be remapped or are there safe levels?
 
yeah stock twins run about 9psi. i wouldnt run more than about 12psi. the twins wont last too long above 13, 14 psi. so 12 is a good safety margin to allow for spikes.
i also wouldnt do this unless u get it properly tuned for the higher boost.
i think u said u had your computer remaped. id try to get the specs on this b4 touching anything.
AT THE VERY LEAST, get it on the dyno to make sure the afr isnt dangerously lean at those boost levels.
 
The "no-spin" diff looks like a regular 1.5 way diff to me. A 1.5 way will lock under power but disengage when you lift your foot off the pedal.

The gearless looks like a regular viscous LSD.

If I could track one down I would go for a 1.5 way... the 2 way diff is a little too brutal for my driving style.
 
i thought detroit locker types were different. and they dont look the way i envisioned.

who knows about power braking/ launch control on some cars.
does the cosmo have a transmission brake by anychance?

referring too holding the brake and accelerator at the same time.
I'v done it like once a long time ago. it seems... as though the rear wheels are released and the car just spins on the spot. 3000rpm max.

can launch be implemented at all ie/ msd 2 step
 
i dont want anyone trying the power braking til theres some form of confirmation about what it does. as it heats the transmission.
 
What's the gearbox like for working on ?, is it something that regular Auto Transmission guys can work on,, I used to have quite a few American Cars and had a guy that was really good at tweaking and rebuilding Powerglides and TH350's and 400's etc.
can these be worked on like these and replacement clutch plates easily come by, or is it a case of find one off a breaker,, or even go manual which would probably mean new stand alone ecu as the electronic gearbox is linked to the ecu I believe,, I have put a KPH convertor on mine to MPH and this has affected the gear change on the box so it is coming out and I am gong back to KPH
 
@Frank20BCosmo

I am pretty sure that the Cosmo box is a Jatco 4N71B. They are pretty common across most Jap cars; 300ZX, Nissan 4WD's etc from the early 90's.

They can be built for big power (extra clutch packs, manual valve bodies etc). There are a fair few places in Aus that can do it; Keas is one of them.

As far as your speedo problem is concerned, it depends on how it is wired. It sounds like the pulse is being changed before it reaches the AT ECU (yep, the transmission is computer controlled which only complicates things.) If you are dead set wanting to use MPH then get something like an Apexi RSM to give you the right speed. This works by intercepting the pulse signal from the AT ECU instead of completely replacing it like what your conversion sounds like it is doing.


The AT ECU is just beside the normal ECU.

@13B Cosmo

You're talking about doing a line-locker!? (evil)

A transbrake is a completely different thing. It puts the auto in 1st and Reverse at the same time so you can "stall it up" to bring the turbo's on boost. Once you release the transbrake button, it then disengages reverse and puts all of that stored up energy down the drive shaft. As you can imagine, stalling it up like this can only be done for a few seconds at a time before boiling the trans-fluid. It is pretty easy to put a thermo fan on our trans coolers though.

Two step launches are mainly for manual gearboxes. Using a two step, the car is given a lower rev limit whilst the clutch is engaged / and or whilst in neutral. This rev limit is usually set to something like 4000RPM (peak torque) but it depends on how the car is set-up. Once the car is in gear, the rev limit goes back up to the usual one (7200RPM). So all you need to do with a two step is to mash your foot down on the pedal and wait for the light to go green!

I have a blitz map analyser in my car which can do a type of launch control. I can set different "Volume" and "Gain" levels for by turbo depending on Road speed, RPM and throttle position.
 
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