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- Plano, Texas, USA
If the mentioned aftermarket ATF doesn’t say “FZ” compatible on the container, just say NO ⋯
2013~2016 CX-5 Services/maintenance required?
- Thread starter SBMongoos
- Start date
Was thinking about just going OEM anyway. I'll see what his prices are and details when he gets back to me. Depending on price, etc., some of this work may go to the service dept at the dealership I've been going to and they did offer 10% off. The guy at Coyote likes the service dept at there as well.
Finally heard back from this place that works on Mazdas. In regards to the out tie rods and lower control arms. Looking at the photo he thinks they are probably fine. Would like to drive my CX-5 to check the feel, etc. But says it looks like grease was squeezed out of both of the seals as he sees grease at the top and the bottom.
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What a great thread 
I recently acquired a '14 GT with 158k miles. It probably needs everything that's been talked about here. I'm most worried about the lifetime ATF, diff, and transfer case oils which I doubt was ever replaced. No problems so far.
I recently acquired a '14 GT with 158k miles. It probably needs everything that's been talked about here. I'm most worried about the lifetime ATF, diff, and transfer case oils which I doubt was ever replaced. No problems so far.
The tie rods you can check yourself. Jack up the car, lifting the left or right front tire. Put your hands on the tire, at the 3 and 9 o'clock positions and try to twist the tire. If there's movement or worse, hear a clink, you have bad tie rods (will need the mechanic to check if it's inner or outer that you need).
Then put your hands on the 12 and 6 o'clock positions, and try to tilt the tire. If it moves or you hear a sound, it could be bad ball joints or something else (to be checked by a mechanic). With ball joints, you simply stick a pry bar and try to make the ball joint move. Replace if there's excess movement.
For the control arms, look at the bushings. If they're severely cracked, replace the control arms, or have the bushings pressed out.
Finally, if you have more than one suspension component needing replacement, consider doing all the work at once to avoid paying for repeated labor charges and wheel alignments. (ask me how I know)
Since you've never used this repair shop before, it's best to know as much about the condition of your car before you take it to them. Then see what they recommend. Hopefully they're honest.
Thanks for the info. Unfortunately, I do not have a good setup at all at home to do this. He was a referral from another shop that doesn't work on Mazdas. Both shops have really good reviews. Listening to this mechanic talk, he sounds like he really knows what he's doing, and apparently he's been doing this for a while.
It really sounds like only the transfer case and the transmission need attention. He can do both and in regards to the transmission he noted "My recommended transmission service is by every 60,000 miles, depending on use. I will also recommend based on age (5-10 years). I remove the transmission oil cooler, install an adapter, inject a cleaner in the system to help suspend particles, and exchange the fluid with 12 quarts of transmission fluid (as fluid run out the cooler, it is captured and new fluid is injected at the same rate), install fluid conditioner and verify oil level. I use 12 quarts to dilute the system and get as much fresh fluid as possible. That service is $318.70."
He knows which fluids to use as well and we spoke over the phone about that. I need to copy/paste his whole message and prices here to get feedback on his comments and pricing. Not a convenient location to get to though (his shop). He told me he could do a road test as well in regards to the front-end work. And definitely 4-wheel alignment if the work is needed.
Here's the mechanics reply to my queries:
Coolant flush/cleaner:
Coolant can be checked for protection level and acidity, but coolant service is usually recommended around 120,000 miles. Ten years is also a good recommendation. Process involves adding a chemical "cleaner" to the system, letting it circulate with the thermostat open, cooling down, draining radiator and engine block, adding BG coolant additive, refilling and verifying heat works, no overheats and no leaks. Cost is $196.39.
Brake fluid/flush:
Brake fluid is a lower priority for me. Brake fluid boiling point drops with moisture absorption. Also, copper content could also show signs of breaking down. Complete brake fluid exchange costs $147.28.
Front transfer case (link for dealer photos, etc: http://www.mkvwa14.com/p/JUxCnR.html)
Transfer case and rear differential fluids are recommended every 60,000 miles. Factory Mazda SG1 fluid in both units. $105.60 for one or $211.18 for both.
Front outer tie rods (link for dealer photos, etc: http://www.mkvwa14.com/p/JUxCnR.html)
I don't service for cracked boots. Cracked boots allow dirt and water in the joint and grease to come out accelerating wear. I replace it when there is play. This picture looks like someone squeezed the grease out since it is on the top and bottom as well.
Front lower control arms
Same thing as the tie rod. This is a picture of the ball joint boot. Someone squeezed grease out for the picture. Replace when there is noise or play.
4 wheel alignment
Always recommended and/or needed after replacing suspension components. Also, an alignment check isn't a bad thing to keep tire wear even. If tire wear is even and steering wheel is straight, alignment may not be needed.
Transmission fluid/flush (filter?)
My recommended transmission service is by every 60,000 miles, depending on use. I will also recommend based on age (5-10 years). I remove the transmission oil cooler, install an adapter, inject a cleaner in the system to help suspend particles, exchange the fluid with 12 quarts of transmission fluid (as fluid runs out the cooler, it is captured and new fluid is injected at the same rate), install fluid conditioner and verify oil level. I use 12 quarts to dilute the system and get as much fresh fluid as possible. That service is $318.70.
Coolant flush/cleaner:
Coolant can be checked for protection level and acidity, but coolant service is usually recommended around 120,000 miles. Ten years is also a good recommendation. Process involves adding a chemical "cleaner" to the system, letting it circulate with the thermostat open, cooling down, draining radiator and engine block, adding BG coolant additive, refilling and verifying heat works, no overheats and no leaks. Cost is $196.39.
Brake fluid/flush:
Brake fluid is a lower priority for me. Brake fluid boiling point drops with moisture absorption. Also, copper content could also show signs of breaking down. Complete brake fluid exchange costs $147.28.
Front transfer case (link for dealer photos, etc: http://www.mkvwa14.com/p/JUxCnR.html)
Transfer case and rear differential fluids are recommended every 60,000 miles. Factory Mazda SG1 fluid in both units. $105.60 for one or $211.18 for both.
Front outer tie rods (link for dealer photos, etc: http://www.mkvwa14.com/p/JUxCnR.html)
I don't service for cracked boots. Cracked boots allow dirt and water in the joint and grease to come out accelerating wear. I replace it when there is play. This picture looks like someone squeezed the grease out since it is on the top and bottom as well.
Front lower control arms
Same thing as the tie rod. This is a picture of the ball joint boot. Someone squeezed grease out for the picture. Replace when there is noise or play.
4 wheel alignment
Always recommended and/or needed after replacing suspension components. Also, an alignment check isn't a bad thing to keep tire wear even. If tire wear is even and steering wheel is straight, alignment may not be needed.
Transmission fluid/flush (filter?)
My recommended transmission service is by every 60,000 miles, depending on use. I will also recommend based on age (5-10 years). I remove the transmission oil cooler, install an adapter, inject a cleaner in the system to help suspend particles, exchange the fluid with 12 quarts of transmission fluid (as fluid runs out the cooler, it is captured and new fluid is injected at the same rate), install fluid conditioner and verify oil level. I use 12 quarts to dilute the system and get as much fresh fluid as possible. That service is $318.70.
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- Plano, Texas, USA
Honestly I believe this guy is legit and pretty honest and knowledgeable to your 2016.5 Mazda CX-5.
The prices he quoted is reasonable to me (although some people may think they’re high) if he really uses the Mazda genuine fluids and those are getting very expensive nowadays. Just went to my Mazda dealer a couple of days ago for a driver side tail light assembly and it’s $536.46 MSRP! Mazda ATF FZ, $17.52 a quart MSRP (the total capacity of your transmission is 8.2 quarts and using 12 qt. to “machine flush” your tranny with a special cooler adapter is a bit more than I thought); SG1 gear oil, $35.27 a quart (you need ~1.20 quarts for both front transfer case and rear differential); FL22 coolant, $29.02 a gallon (the total capacity of your coolant system is 8.1 quarts). The only thing I don’t like is this mechanic seems to like to use all kind of “cleaners” or “conditioners” before any fluid changes which may be just a gimmick to make more money for him. Hey those mechanics also need to make living. As long as the charge is reasonable and legit, and the job is well done, he should make a reasonable profit for his service.
You don’t need FL22 coolant change on your 7-year-old and 73K-mile 2016.5 CX-5. His coolant change interval is legit too, 120,000 miles or 10 years.
$211.18 to change the gear oil on both front transfer case and real differential definitely is pretty high to me.
His comments on your outer tie-rods and lower control arms makes me think he’s a honest guy and knows the trick even a Mazda dealer could do. Your 2016.5 CX-5 is 7 years old with 73K miles. The split rubber boot on these components should be rare and unless you see the rubber boots are split or damaged, the grease shouldn’t be leaked out. I did replace those rubber boots on steering rack、outer tie-rods、control arm ball joints on my 1998 Honda CR-V at 170K miles that’s only because replacing those boots are doable and stated in the factory shop manual, and the OEM boots were all available from Honda for DIYers.
Tie rod boots are not as important as CV joints. Tie rods are cheap, and dont turn as hundreds of RPMs as do driveshafts. Driveshafts with worn CV joints (from torn CV boots) will need to be replaced. Aftermarket driveshafts work, but they might be cheaply made and cause vibrations down the road. The Care Care Nut YouTube channel recommends repacking the grease in CV joints and thus use the original driveshafts to avoid using aftermarket parts.
Of lesser importance to me are tie rod boots. Torn outers are not as bad as torn inners because I don't want dirt and abrasives to get into the steering rack.
There are kits to replace both the CV boot and tie rod boots. If they're already torn, replace them. If there's only a little grease seepage, just keep an eye on it. But if your front end is getting disassembled anyway, do everything at the same time.
Of lesser importance to me are tie rod boots. Torn outers are not as bad as torn inners because I don't want dirt and abrasives to get into the steering rack.
There are kits to replace both the CV boot and tie rod boots. If they're already torn, replace them. If there's only a little grease seepage, just keep an eye on it. But if your front end is getting disassembled anyway, do everything at the same time.
I'll need to schedule. He'll need to check out the front hardware and/or test drive. He's suspicious if there is an issue. He had said if there was an issue he wouldn't do anything until he started to feel some play. Guess either way works but more so if you need to watch the funds.
He doesn't think the brake fluid will be needed or the coolant. Rear diff was already done at 60k. Nothing was said about the front transfer case until I brought it up at the dealership due to recommendations from this thread.
He does use Mazda fluids but has compatible brands that meet specs that are less.
Really it would just come down to the front transfer case and the transmission unless he found something in the going on with the front hardware. He noted he would replace and boots/seals until the rest of the work needed to be done (some of this came from over the phone). Or if the brake fluid didn't look good or test bad.
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- Plano, Texas, USA
Just out of curiosity if possible, ask the mechanic about the rare special cooler adapter. If he let you or he can take a picture for you while he’s doing the ATF flush with the machine that’d be great! And you can also ask hoe much more to add the ATF filter change.
You should negotiate the price on SG1 gear oil changes as the job for both should be much easier than ATF change.
CV? I understand but how does that tie with the
Are you referring to a filter change when doing the transmission? Thought he and I spoke about that on the phone but interesting it's not mentioned in his email.
As for prices they have been competitive. Might be the Denver market.
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- Plano, Texas, USA
Since there’s no ATF lined in and out to the CX-5’s transmission like many others do, he can’t simply hook up a commercial ATF flush machine unless he has a special ATF cooler adapter, where Mazda doesn’t support it. He has to remove the ATF cooler and install this adapter to hook up the flush machine to flush the ATF. I was talking about if you or he can take some pictures on this adapter when he install it to the transmission with the flush machine hooked up in the picture.
Ya, I understood that. Is there no filter to deal with?
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- 2016.5 CX-5 GT AWD titanium/black 2016 Miata Club ST MT white
There's a filter inside the pan.
Thought so. When work is done is this filter usually cleaned or replaced? I'll have to check with this mechanic as I don't recall if he said anything or not.
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- Plano, Texas, USA
No, when the shop does the ATF flush, they usually don’t clean or change the ATF filter inside unless they mentioned it at front. It’d take a lot more work by taking down the ATF pan.
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- 2016.5 CX-5 GT AWD titanium/black 2016 Miata Club ST MT white
From what I can tell, some folks are doing a drain and refill without dropping the pan and changing the filter. Others are dropping the pan and changing the filter out.
For some, the problem with dropping the pan is that the old sealant used by Mazda (instead of a gasket) must be scrapped off and new sealant/gasket must be used.
I haven't done any of this yet but when I do, I'll be dropping the pan and replacing the filter.
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- Plano, Texas, USA
You still can ask that guy and see how much he’ll charge you to do that. I personally would do it unless the charge by the shop is outrageous. The guy will flush your ATF with a machine changing the entire ATF, a new filter should make you feel even better.
