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In the extreme performance category, all the brands are pretty close. Only the seasoned autocrossers and racers can truly appreciate the difference. Tirerack.com is a good place to start.

Um, how about you start with better tires. A million horsepowers and torques are useless if you just spin crappy all-season tires and can't put power down to the ground. Start with better tires, and you improve handling at the same time. Pick from the "maximum," "ultra," "extreme" summer...

I had to cut mine off with a dremel.

I find the shocks are caused by the motion of exiting the car. Butt rubbing against seat builds up some static electricity in my body. Touch metal door frame and get shocked. My solution was to hold on to the door frame as I am getting out of the car. I ground myself to the car and don't allow...

I have 88 duro mounts all around. Lots of vibration at idle and lots of things rattle but much better once car is moving. A lot more engine noise comes into the cabin though. I love it but some people may not.

An ABS fault won't be recorded as an OBD code. So code reader won't tell you anything. The ABS code is stored in the ABS module. The process to check ABS codes is something like: connect a couple jumpers on the ABS module, then count the number of flashes of the ABS light on the dash. Or...

Look for tears in the engine mount rubber. The passenger side engine mount is infinitely easier to replace than the rear mount. The rear mount is buried deep in the engine bay.

I'd check passenger side engine mount. Blown shocks/struts would be my second guess.

All the info you need on the MP3 ECU flash is in here: http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123746537-FS-MP3-ECU-150-shipping

^win!!!

Sorry, no measurement but as you can see, it would have been difficult.

I thought traction bars were something you put on solid axle RWD cars on leafspring suspension. Are you talking about something to limit movement of the engine? Are you getting too much wheel hop or something? In my own experience, the easiest way to eliminate wheel hop is to replace stock...

Forget the front bar. Stock front P5 sway bar + rear MSP sway bar will get rid of a lot of the understeer engineered into the P5. The balance will be closer to neutral with this setup. That's good.

Only use the allen screw to back out the piston. I guess using the c-clamp could have jammed the set screw leading you to strip it. Maybe try applying the brakes with the caliper off of the rotor and see if the piston at least moves out. But put enough things in front of it so that the whole...

Do NOT use a c-clamp on the rear caliper. Do your best to get the screw out. You can replace just that if you can get it out. Else you'll have to replace the whole caliper. When you get the new caliper, do NOT use a c-clamp on it.

Negative camber could be the cause. It is possible to have one front wheel toe out more than the other. Either way, an alignment is the first place to start.

Excessive toe out is my guess.

Only if you BELIEVE IT. Lol.

^I personally wouldn't ever drive around without bump stops. One bad pot hole could bottom out a strut and destroy a shock. Just not worth the risk. To save money, I guess you could order just 2 P5 bump stops, cut them in half to turn them into 4. If the dealer lets you, just order 1 front bump...

Stock P5 bump stops are too big for the lower H&R springs. My guess is that you are hitting the bump stops a lot more often then you should. When bump stops do the work of springs, they fall apart. Easiest solution I think is order OEM MSP bump stops, which are shorter than the P5 ones. Or...