Spool Turbo MP3 Blew Up

igdrasil said:
Hey...careful with maf limit...it will lean out the car...and may cause detonation and s***...
It had happened to me before...
Yeah, i ordered a JoeP FCD to try to fix it.
 
MPNick said:
Still I do not see where the camshaft is helping.
I never said it definitely helped. I have to fix my MAF issue and retune and dyno to prove that. I was just showing how my car does have good low end torque, even though you said that it didn't. Now granted, Dean's had more, but he was also tuned. I wasn't.

Here is a 15psi pull from Deans with the mostly stock MSP exhaust system. We did make a downpipe and removed the front cat. @4,000 rpms Dean was up 20 lbs ft at the same 15psi.
I was actually at 14psi on the dyno.
 
I think the engine loose torque with a bigger or longer EXHAUST cam.
I think is better porting and polishing the head.
 
TurfBurn said:
I was referring to the lower of the two curves, the upper one looks good... is the lower one Dana's? As it is rather similar... just confused as to what i'm seeing there.
Deans was the top line, he made over 300 on that pull. I was pointing out that with the same boost and the stock MSP exhuast from the second cat on back that you have 20 more lbs ft of torque at 4,000 rpms. I think the bigger intake camshaft hurts the turbo engine.

Thanks again

Later............Nick
 
Kooldino said:
I never said it definitely helped. I have to fix my MAF issue and retune and dyno to prove that. I was just showing how my car does have good low end torque, even though you said that it didn't. Now granted, Dean's had more, but he was also tuned. I wasn't.


I was actually at 14psi on the dyno.
That was also Deans first time on the dyno for tuning. I do not see the MAF problem hurting torque. I see it hurting HP more then lowend torque. But until we all go back to the dyno later this summer we will not know for sure. It is good that someone has tried a camshaft and then dynoed the car. The more data we get the better it is for everyone on the forum. Real number always work better then "feels strong".


Thanks again



Later............Nick
 
Well a little update.. I'll have the head off the engine this week... I can see that the number 4 piston is on edge though... I can see ring landings it looks like through the sprk plug hole....

Taking off the head is WAY easier than I ever thought it would be... I've spent probably a total of 5-6 hours working on the car if that... taking my sweet time and removing everything as I go and teaching a friend... The head is loose right now I just didn't pull the PS pump and a couple other minor things I need ot pull before the head comes all the way free (and work on draining some more coolant! :) )

The hole in the block behind number 4 is much worse thatn I thought too... it's probably a good 8" long (up and down) and about 3" wide... the bottom of the rod is still on the crank, and rotates freely, so the problem wasn't the bearing or the rod bolts... so we'll have to see if it was the piston or rod that took the system! I'm betting on the rod... then the question is going to be the why!
 
Looks like it is the rod that gave and not the piston.

You'll notice in these pictures that the piston shattered UPWARDS. My theory based off that, the lack of cratering on the piston, and no discoloration or scarring of the cylinder walls is that the rod gave up, spun around and smacked the bottom of the piston cracking it and lodging it at an angle in the cylinder. Then the rod spun around a few times until it broke itself off completely. You'll see all the damage to the upper oil pan as well.

The thing that confuses and concerns me the most though is the condition of the valves. It looks like I have two bent intake valves on the cylinder that blew (number four), and I also noticed some degradation of the valve surface on cylinder number one. Any thoughts or opinions are very welcome!
 

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In this you can see the piston with the debris removed and pounded back down to be level again. Notice the cylinder walls are smooth and clean and not discolored. The other shot is of another piston and how much carbon and crap is on top of it.. but no damage or issues that I can see.
 

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another shot of the valves on cyl 4 (the one that popped)
 

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Here are some pics of the cyl1 valves (notice how cooked the exhaust valves are!!!!) and the overall valve train... notice that 1 and 4 are hot, and the rest are cold...
 

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TurfBurn said:
Looks like it is the rod that gave and not the piston.

You'll notice in these pictures that the piston shattered UPWARDS. My theory based off that, the lack of cratering on the piston, and no discoloration or scarring of the cylinder walls is that the rod gave up, spun around and smacked the bottom of the piston cracking it and lodging it at an angle in the cylinder. Then the rod spun around a few times until it broke itself off completely. You'll see all the damage to the upper oil pan as well.

The thing that confuses and concerns me the most though is the condition of the valves. It looks like I have two bent intake valves on the cylinder that blew (number four), and I also noticed some degradation of the valve surface on cylinder number one. Any thoughts or opinions are very welcome!
Rod bolts to my eyes so far. Take a look at how the head gasket was sealing. I see the one head pins is stuck in the head. It should be in the block. It also lool like the head gasket was not sitting right, it may have moved or was not on right from the start. Was the head off of this car before?
 
rod bolts or head bolts?? (rod bolts were still holding the bottom of the rod onto the crank and it was fully intact down there other than chewed to hell)

I don't know if the head was ever off.... not in the time I had it, and I don't see any reason why it would have come off as no work was ever done on it... But only Terry would know for sure.

I noticed that the coolant passages and the like were dirty as hell... don't know if that would have anything to do with either...

So you think it was something with the head gasket?

I don't know jack about diagnosing a blown engine... :D So any help is great!
 
MPNick said:
It also lool like the head gasket was not sitting right, it may have moved or was not on right from the start.
The gasket was jostled/moved in that picture where I have the gasket still sitting on top of the block.
 
TurfBurn said:
rod bolts or head bolts?? (rod bolts were still holding the bottom of the rod onto the crank and it was fully intact down there other than chewed to hell)

I don't know if the head was ever off.... not in the time I had it, and I don't see any reason why it would have come off as no work was ever done on it... But only Terry would know for sure.

I noticed that the coolant passages and the like were dirty as hell... don't know if that would have anything to do with either...

So you think it was something with the head gasket?

I don't know jack about diagnosing a blown engine... :D So any help is great!
Did not see the lower end yet. When rods break due to load they go down. Now sometimes the will start to bend over time from to much load. Then the bottom of the piston will hit the counter shaft and things will fly up. So if your rod bolts are good then it must have been that the rods were bent.

Take a look at the head pin in stuck in the head. It should be in the block more then half way, it is not. Did the head gasket shift?
 
TurfBurn said:
The gasket was jostled/moved in that picture where I have the gasket still sitting on top of the block.
It may have moved when you removed the head. Why is the pin stuck all of the way in the head? Can you pull the pin right out?
 
Hey...I saw the pictures and some smell came around.
Remembering my engine(nervous)

THIS IS THE SAME THAT HAPPENED TO MY ENGINE. Piston 1 and 4 bent and twisted the rods up to the limit that the piston reached the crank shaft and got pulled out of the pin (broken under it) and left the piston in the chamber while the rod is playing around doing some decorative holes in the block.(pissed)

Hey, and about the head gasket, maybe its not aligned in the block because the alignment pins are stuck on the head and not on the block. Look for it.



TurfBurn said:
rod bolts or head bolts?? (rod bolts were still holding the bottom of the rod onto the crank and it was fully intact down there other than chewed to hell)

I don't know if the head was ever off.... not in the time I had it, and I don't see any reason why it would have come off as no work was ever done on it... But only Terry would know for sure.

I noticed that the coolant passages and the like were dirty as hell... don't know if that would have anything to do with either...

So you think it was something with the head gasket?

I don't know jack about diagnosing a blown engine... :D So any help is great!
 
MPNick said:
It may have moved when you removed the head. Why is the pin stuck all of the way in the head? Can you pull the pin right out?
I'm not following you. I don't see/know what pin is in the head.... all the bolts will come out no problem... but I'm assuming you are not talking about that... where is it in which picture?

I have the center of the rod still... it's about 2" long... bent like a rather flat U in shape.. didn't know if that would be from it taking out the block and upper oil pan or if it was from before the damage..

I'll post more pics shortly of some of that stuff (don't have pics of the rod though).
 
ahh... now I'm following you guys on the pins after reading Igdrasil's posts... I'll have to look for that..
 
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