Yeah, i ordered a JoeP FCD to try to fix it.igdrasil said:Hey...careful with maf limit...it will lean out the car...and may cause detonation and s***...
It had happened to me before...
Yeah, i ordered a JoeP FCD to try to fix it.igdrasil said:Hey...careful with maf limit...it will lean out the car...and may cause detonation and s***...
It had happened to me before...
I never said it definitely helped. I have to fix my MAF issue and retune and dyno to prove that. I was just showing how my car does have good low end torque, even though you said that it didn't. Now granted, Dean's had more, but he was also tuned. I wasn't.MPNick said:Still I do not see where the camshaft is helping.
I was actually at 14psi on the dyno.Here is a 15psi pull from Deans with the mostly stock MSP exhaust system. We did make a downpipe and removed the front cat. @4,000 rpms Dean was up 20 lbs ft at the same 15psi.
Deans was the top line, he made over 300 on that pull. I was pointing out that with the same boost and the stock MSP exhuast from the second cat on back that you have 20 more lbs ft of torque at 4,000 rpms. I think the bigger intake camshaft hurts the turbo engine.TurfBurn said:I was referring to the lower of the two curves, the upper one looks good... is the lower one Dana's? As it is rather similar... just confused as to what i'm seeing there.
That was also Deans first time on the dyno for tuning. I do not see the MAF problem hurting torque. I see it hurting HP more then lowend torque. But until we all go back to the dyno later this summer we will not know for sure. It is good that someone has tried a camshaft and then dynoed the car. The more data we get the better it is for everyone on the forum. Real number always work better then "feels strong".Kooldino said:I never said it definitely helped. I have to fix my MAF issue and retune and dyno to prove that. I was just showing how my car does have good low end torque, even though you said that it didn't. Now granted, Dean's had more, but he was also tuned. I wasn't.
I was actually at 14psi on the dyno.
Rod bolts to my eyes so far. Take a look at how the head gasket was sealing. I see the one head pins is stuck in the head. It should be in the block. It also lool like the head gasket was not sitting right, it may have moved or was not on right from the start. Was the head off of this car before?TurfBurn said:Looks like it is the rod that gave and not the piston.
You'll notice in these pictures that the piston shattered UPWARDS. My theory based off that, the lack of cratering on the piston, and no discoloration or scarring of the cylinder walls is that the rod gave up, spun around and smacked the bottom of the piston cracking it and lodging it at an angle in the cylinder. Then the rod spun around a few times until it broke itself off completely. You'll see all the damage to the upper oil pan as well.
The thing that confuses and concerns me the most though is the condition of the valves. It looks like I have two bent intake valves on the cylinder that blew (number four), and I also noticed some degradation of the valve surface on cylinder number one. Any thoughts or opinions are very welcome!
The gasket was jostled/moved in that picture where I have the gasket still sitting on top of the block.MPNick said:It also lool like the head gasket was not sitting right, it may have moved or was not on right from the start.
Did not see the lower end yet. When rods break due to load they go down. Now sometimes the will start to bend over time from to much load. Then the bottom of the piston will hit the counter shaft and things will fly up. So if your rod bolts are good then it must have been that the rods were bent.TurfBurn said:rod bolts or head bolts?? (rod bolts were still holding the bottom of the rod onto the crank and it was fully intact down there other than chewed to hell)
I don't know if the head was ever off.... not in the time I had it, and I don't see any reason why it would have come off as no work was ever done on it... But only Terry would know for sure.
I noticed that the coolant passages and the like were dirty as hell... don't know if that would have anything to do with either...
So you think it was something with the head gasket?
I don't know jack about diagnosing a blown engine... So any help is great!
It may have moved when you removed the head. Why is the pin stuck all of the way in the head? Can you pull the pin right out?TurfBurn said:The gasket was jostled/moved in that picture where I have the gasket still sitting on top of the block.
TurfBurn said:rod bolts or head bolts?? (rod bolts were still holding the bottom of the rod onto the crank and it was fully intact down there other than chewed to hell)
I don't know if the head was ever off.... not in the time I had it, and I don't see any reason why it would have come off as no work was ever done on it... But only Terry would know for sure.
I noticed that the coolant passages and the like were dirty as hell... don't know if that would have anything to do with either...
So you think it was something with the head gasket?
I don't know jack about diagnosing a blown engine... So any help is great!
I'm not following you. I don't see/know what pin is in the head.... all the bolts will come out no problem... but I'm assuming you are not talking about that... where is it in which picture?MPNick said:It may have moved when you removed the head. Why is the pin stuck all of the way in the head? Can you pull the pin right out?