any tips or website or write up to help me install a MS on my msp?
Jeff's MSP GTR Build
- Thread starter jeffmsp
- Start date
any tips or website or write up to help me install a MS on my msp?
not really as I have mine on a completely different engine, I use a distributor instead of COP and a have 1991 Ford Escort wiring harness hooked up to it.
But I am pretty sure there are a couple fsde guys running them that you could probably get all the info you need from on this forum.
But I am pretty sure there are a couple fsde guys running them that you could probably get all the info you need from on this forum.
i have a nice plug and play setup, but if you want to get your hands dirty there is info found around search google for more
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123780542-Megasquirt-2-EMS-Guide-for-FS-DE-98
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123780542-Megasquirt-2-EMS-Guide-for-FS-DE-98
all my weight savings are paying off.
brought my car to 2 different mto scales and weighed under 1200 kg / 2618 pounds on both.
this is with 1/3 tank of gas and full washer fluid. spare tire and jack still in the car. full interior.
Stock MSP is ~2843 lbs.
Keep in mind I have added a huge heavy 3" turbo back exhaust, a big intercooler, a big turbo, heavy optima red top etc. so to be at 2618 makes me pretty happy.
My goal is to be under 2600 no driver with full gas and washer fluid. Not much more to go.
I think removing the spare tire, jack, switching to a carbon trunk and deleting the spoiler should make up for the 2/3 of gas I was missing in the tank.
Then if I kill off the remaining 20 pounds or so with a lighter battery and other small mods I should be reasonably close to 2600 curb weight goal.
Stock MSP is ~2843 lbs.
brought my car to 2 different mto scales and weighed under 1200 kg / 2618 pounds on both.
this is with 1/3 tank of gas and full washer fluid. spare tire and jack still in the car. full interior.
Stock MSP is ~2843 lbs.
Keep in mind I have added a huge heavy 3" turbo back exhaust, a big intercooler, a big turbo, heavy optima red top etc. so to be at 2618 makes me pretty happy.
My goal is to be under 2600 no driver with full gas and washer fluid. Not much more to go.
I think removing the spare tire, jack, switching to a carbon trunk and deleting the spoiler should make up for the 2/3 of gas I was missing in the tank.
Then if I kill off the remaining 20 pounds or so with a lighter battery and other small mods I should be reasonably close to 2600 curb weight goal.
Stock MSP is ~2843 lbs.
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Well after tearing the short 90 degree coupling which connects the throttle body to intercooler piping again, I decided to buy the biggest god damn 90 degree vibrant coupling money can buy and trimmed it to size. Im embarrassed to say what i paid for it. Lets just say too much. Waaaay too much. Damn thing better not tear ever.
also picked up one of those CR3 alum air diversion panels. Hope they ship em out soon I hate waiting on parts from the states.
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CR3 Motorsports
Member
They should be shipping out on Tuesday or Wed. =)
That is a huge 90. lol
That is a huge 90. lol
new exhaust is in but still a bit too low. its hard because the turbo outlet also hangs low and is kinda in the way a bit. at least it was better than before. hopefully good weather will come soon and these will be the last winter mode pics. really wanna lower the car and finish tuning this year.
i need coilovers asap lol it handles as strange as it looks.
then the new rims and tuner lugs went on. as you can see i need to get coilovers.
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some old news from May that I forgot to post here:
Already got the new clutch, just need some time to install and break it in.
And I added new suspension and brakes:
and painted valve cover with a new gasket.
been busy. bought a brand new house down the street from Steeda (where I dyno). almost done unpacking all my tools and stuff..
anyways, new suspension is in. Car handles great. Brakes are in. Car stops great.
also installed a second fan. this new one is a 12" to compliment my existing 10". Even after hard pulls the temp has not exceeded 200 F in 30 degrees C weather.
Started doing the clutch last night. Dropped off flywheel for resurfacing today. New clutch is from a 2.5 KL motor. Stage 3 6 puck rated to 380 flywheel.
Should hold high boost fine on the dyno. Pretty sure the next weak link is the 550cc injectors. Not really comfortable going much past 250whp on them. Still on stock MSP fuel pump as well.
Car still drives better than the day I bought it new.
Once all this is done I have to remove the stock mazda 1.8 IM get back to tuning my ITB manifold. With bigger injectors Im thinking 300+whp isnt that far off.
Once I get bored with that I will start prepping my VVT MK2 miata cylinder head.
Also had a chance to do some inspection on my chinacharger. It is still mint. No shaft play, the turbines both look mint (gotta love V band downpipe, it takes less than 5 mins to remove and inspect the hot side turbine
)
I am now well past the one year mark of daily driving the chinacharger and if it died tomorrow it would still be the best part ive ever used. Lucky for me it still seems mint. Put about 140+km daily round trip to work and the car is nothing but fun lol around 35,000KMs of mileage in the last year alone.
first off let me apologize for the crappy video, I recorded it on my cell which was just hanging from my neck for most of the vids.
i ended up spending quite a bit more time on the dyno than I thought I would. (most of the morning in fact)
The guys at Steeda were a real pleasure to deal with and I would definitely recommend them to anyone looking to dyno their car. I can’t stand shady shops and these guys seemed more legit than any other shop ive been too.
GT500s, SVT Mustangs, all sorts of amazing cars there getting tuned that make my car seem like a turd lol
Before I went to the dyno I did several pulls around 16psi on the street and the clutch was just starting to slip.
I figured if I droppped the boost a bit on the dyno I would be in good shape.
In the first part of the vid we start off by trying to run 15.2psi and the clutch lets go right before 5000rpm. We confirmed 217whp before the clutch let go and the rpms jumped.
Luckily the steeda operator was smart enough to back off right away once the clutch slipped.
After that we dropped the boost .5 psi and tried again. First doing a pull to try and set the boost controller, then we would hit record and follow it up with another pull. the clutch would slip and we would repeat the process.
Running so many back to back pulls trying to find a boost level that wouldnt cause the clutch to slip was putting a toll on the cooling system, and more than once we had to stop and let it cool down a bit before starting again.
In the last part of the video you can actually see my overflow dumping its guts on the dyno right after my final pull.
It was a dumb idea to show up with my winter antifreeze 50/50 mix and only 1 cooling fan. Ill be running much more water with water wetter the rest of the summer.
Long story short we got tired of trying to get a 13+psi run in as the clutch just kept slipping(though the car was making more power below 5000rpm then I did on my best complete run at 10-12psi), so I set the boost controller to 12psi and we did the final 2 pulls.
According to my datalog the boost did not hold too well (it fluctuated from 10psi-12psi for most of the recorded run.) as we literally reset the controller, did a quick run through 3rd to try and get a quick setting before overheating, then i instructed the operator to just do the pull in 4th and try to get a good reading before the car overheated again.
AFRs were always safe in the 11.5-12.5 range under boost, but they can obviously still use some work.
You can see from the fluctuation of the dyno sheet the boost going up and down from 10-12psi.
Final number was 216whp on 91 octane running 10-12psi on the mustang dyno.
You can bet I will be going back with a fresh clutch looking to run over 1bar by the time summer hits.
Overall it was a great experience going to Steeda. They let ME do things the way I wanted them done, I felt like I was in control of everything the whole time I was on the rollers and their onsite operator/tuner was a really nice and knowledgeable guy.
All in all, disappointing that the clutch didnt hold well enough on the dyno to record a 15+psi run, but still satisfying to know Im on the right track with the tune.
Already got the new clutch, just need some time to install and break it in.
And I added new suspension and brakes:
picked up a tokico illumina setup from jacek. has a set of msp springs with a bit of the spring trimmed from the front.
should be interesting to see how it looks/handles as my car is so high in the front right now with the stock springs/10 year old tokico blues.
the illuminas have 5 settings. im going to try the rears on 5 to start and just play with the fronts mostly. if 5 in the rear is too stiff i can always go back and adjust them, just have to remove interior piece to get to em.
you adjust them from the top with a flat head sd. pretty simple.
also picked up the rear 2007 mazda6 rotors/pads/calipers. did not go with the speed6s as I have 2 good sets of winter wheels that wont fit qith the speed6 brakes and I do not race or anything so it just seemed like a bunch of rotational weight/inconvenience for no reason.
i believe the newer mazda6 caliper is of a better design from what others have been posting. will have to wait and see, I just hope they last 3-5 years instead of 1-2.
and painted valve cover with a new gasket.
been busy. bought a brand new house down the street from Steeda (where I dyno). almost done unpacking all my tools and stuff..
anyways, new suspension is in. Car handles great. Brakes are in. Car stops great.
also installed a second fan. this new one is a 12" to compliment my existing 10". Even after hard pulls the temp has not exceeded 200 F in 30 degrees C weather.
Started doing the clutch last night. Dropped off flywheel for resurfacing today. New clutch is from a 2.5 KL motor. Stage 3 6 puck rated to 380 flywheel.
Should hold high boost fine on the dyno. Pretty sure the next weak link is the 550cc injectors. Not really comfortable going much past 250whp on them. Still on stock MSP fuel pump as well.
Car still drives better than the day I bought it new.
Once all this is done I have to remove the stock mazda 1.8 IM get back to tuning my ITB manifold. With bigger injectors Im thinking 300+whp isnt that far off.
Once I get bored with that I will start prepping my VVT MK2 miata cylinder head.
Also had a chance to do some inspection on my chinacharger. It is still mint. No shaft play, the turbines both look mint (gotta love V band downpipe, it takes less than 5 mins to remove and inspect the hot side turbine
)I am now well past the one year mark of daily driving the chinacharger and if it died tomorrow it would still be the best part ive ever used. Lucky for me it still seems mint. Put about 140+km daily round trip to work and the car is nothing but fun lol around 35,000KMs of mileage in the last year alone.
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ya it was a bit of a gamble with the used illuminas. I have been driving around with these wheels for a few months now and my stock suspension was so shot it would never even compress in the rear.
first issue I had was that as soon as I installed suspension that actually moves was that I started bottoming out in the rear hard. the new wheels have alot of offset compared to oem mazdaspeed protege / mazda3 wheels, but i never had the issue before as the suspension was pretty much seized so the rear never bottomed out.
I spent some time rolling the rear fenders and now it doesnt seem so bad, though I did mess up the rear fenders a bit from bottoming out before rolling them. lucky me I already had a new touch up pen just waiting to be used. now that i rolled them with a bat I only bottom out with passengers in the rear. might spend a bit more time rolling the fenders even more, but lucky for me all of my friends have cars so very rarely do I ever have anybody in the back anyways. the front is a bit lower now too with the modded msp springs up front. its not too low which is good because i drive the car through lots of snow in the winter.
i probably should have just bought coil overs but Ive been a bit strapped for cash as I just bought the new house etc. either way im pretty happy with the setup, definately works better than what I had before lol and the ability to adjust is nice. I will probably get a few years out of the setup.
first issue I had was that as soon as I installed suspension that actually moves was that I started bottoming out in the rear hard. the new wheels have alot of offset compared to oem mazdaspeed protege / mazda3 wheels, but i never had the issue before as the suspension was pretty much seized so the rear never bottomed out.
I spent some time rolling the rear fenders and now it doesnt seem so bad, though I did mess up the rear fenders a bit from bottoming out before rolling them. lucky me I already had a new touch up pen just waiting to be used. now that i rolled them with a bat I only bottom out with passengers in the rear. might spend a bit more time rolling the fenders even more, but lucky for me all of my friends have cars so very rarely do I ever have anybody in the back anyways. the front is a bit lower now too with the modded msp springs up front. its not too low which is good because i drive the car through lots of snow in the winter.
i probably should have just bought coil overs but Ive been a bit strapped for cash as I just bought the new house etc. either way im pretty happy with the setup, definately works better than what I had before lol and the ability to adjust is nice. I will probably get a few years out of the setup.
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new stage 3 F1 KL 2.5L Clutch installed on my 1.8BP flywheel.
Been experimenting with different boost levels. Seems 17psi is around the limit for 91 octane on this setup, so on the street I try to keep it just below 17. Going back to the dyno soon and will see what it puts down with my new clutch that can actually hold the power. Shooting for 300 flywheel, maybe a bit more with 94 octane and a few more psi.
Clutch is done the break in period. Pedal feel is great I am very happy with it so far.
Been experimenting with different boost levels. Seems 17psi is around the limit for 91 octane on this setup, so on the street I try to keep it just below 17. Going back to the dyno soon and will see what it puts down with my new clutch that can actually hold the power. Shooting for 300 flywheel, maybe a bit more with 94 octane and a few more psi.
Clutch is done the break in period. Pedal feel is great I am very happy with it so far.
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went back to the dyno today...
BOOM
JK
Well once again I had nothing but problems.
The bad news:
1. Filled up with 94 octane. Set boost to 19psi (I had bigger balls then usual today) got the car up on the dyno. 4th gear pull. As soon as i passed ~5200rpm it felt like we hit a brick wall. .but then we look and the engine IS idling fine.. I look back at my laptop and its completely frozen? WTF I hard boot my laptop and the windows profile is corrupted (great).
I logged in with another profile and review the MS log. AFRs are PERFECT IAT is great everything is MINT and then suddenly, the MS reset in the middle of a high boost run..
I instruct the operator to do the pull again and keep his foot in it even if it does that again. brrrrrrrrrrrBAMbrrrrrrrrpt once again MS resets at 5200rpm@19psi but is able to get through the hiccup and keep going til redline WTF again this happened.hmm
We look at the data on the dyno machine and the engine almost made 300 FLYWHEEL ON MUSTANG NUMBERS, OVER 300!!!! on Dynojet Numbers!
The graph looks so retarded with the damn MS resetting in the middle of the run that the operator says he wont even print it out as it could not be smoothed out properly. They are pretty professional compared to a butcher like me.
So, I removed laptop as it was just freezing every time the MS reset, hooked up my bluetooth connector, started data logging on the cell phone. this time 17psi. exact same thing happens, a couple hundred or so rpm sooner than last time.
At this point I had been there almost an hour trying to figure this stuff out. The operator was obviously getting annoyed as I was wasting his time and they had better things to do as this was supposed to be a simple on/off dyno run. All this dyno time and i still did not have a complete pull.
Then of course, even with my new second fan running full the car overheats and does a minor puke on the dyno. at least it wasnt big this time (maybe my stock auto pro5 radiator just wont cut it for back to back dyno pulls for an hour or so. dont wana over heat there again so i am also going to look into moving my downpipe a bit farther away from coolant inlet as well as this might be contributing to my issues)
Then I just said ***k it I want at least some charted numbers out of this thing today as the dyno is not exactly cheap whether you get your print out or not so we set boost back down to around 15 and we did a pull which gave me the 235whp chart (mustang dyno numbers) you see here. I happy with the numbers, but the motor sounded sweeter than ever. Not a bad sound to hear after listening to it fall on its face during the 19psi runs lol
So...
The good news:
1. The new KL clutch held up great!
2. We EVENTUALLY recorded a 235whp run using mustang dyno numbers (thats ~270 flywheel! ) at 15psi. The Operator mentioned this way closer to 285 flywheel on dynojet numbers at 15psi.
3. The engine certainly CAN make 300 flywheel, however I needed 19psi to do it, which worries me a bit as my math tells me I should be there at 17psi.
The strange thing is on the street it doesnt reset. Operator mentioned that since i go through 3rd/4th much quicker on the street the problem probably just never surfaced, essentially from what we learned the ecu cannot handle high load/boost for long durations of time without resetting.
i am thinking this is due to me being a hack with the wiring. however i have not made any recent changes so it must be something that has been otherwise unnoticed on the street, even at 17+psi.
Anyways, Im leaving for vacation soon. Im happy I got to hit the dyno before leaving but look forward to playing more with my MS. Really wanna get back on the rollers and do a 19psi pull again once i sort out this electrical BS. The setup certainly proved to me today that it is able deliver 300hp, just needs a little more massaging to get everything right under high boost on the dyno.
peak printable numbers: 235whp / 206 wtrq using mustang numbers. Thats ~270HP at the Flywheel. Not bad for a 1991 Ford Escort GT motor
AND let it be known, that for a short period of time in the existance of this earth, 300 horsepower came out of a STOCK MSP axleback exhaust / racing beat muffler...lol
BOOM
JK
Well once again I had nothing but problems.
The bad news:
1. Filled up with 94 octane. Set boost to 19psi (I had bigger balls then usual today) got the car up on the dyno. 4th gear pull. As soon as i passed ~5200rpm it felt like we hit a brick wall. .but then we look and the engine IS idling fine.. I look back at my laptop and its completely frozen? WTF I hard boot my laptop and the windows profile is corrupted (great).
I logged in with another profile and review the MS log. AFRs are PERFECT IAT is great everything is MINT and then suddenly, the MS reset in the middle of a high boost run..
I instruct the operator to do the pull again and keep his foot in it even if it does that again. brrrrrrrrrrrBAMbrrrrrrrrpt once again MS resets at 5200rpm@19psi but is able to get through the hiccup and keep going til redline WTF again this happened.hmm
We look at the data on the dyno machine and the engine almost made 300 FLYWHEEL ON MUSTANG NUMBERS, OVER 300!!!! on Dynojet Numbers!
The graph looks so retarded with the damn MS resetting in the middle of the run that the operator says he wont even print it out as it could not be smoothed out properly. They are pretty professional compared to a butcher like me.
So, I removed laptop as it was just freezing every time the MS reset, hooked up my bluetooth connector, started data logging on the cell phone. this time 17psi. exact same thing happens, a couple hundred or so rpm sooner than last time.
At this point I had been there almost an hour trying to figure this stuff out. The operator was obviously getting annoyed as I was wasting his time and they had better things to do as this was supposed to be a simple on/off dyno run. All this dyno time and i still did not have a complete pull.
Then of course, even with my new second fan running full the car overheats and does a minor puke on the dyno. at least it wasnt big this time (maybe my stock auto pro5 radiator just wont cut it for back to back dyno pulls for an hour or so. dont wana over heat there again so i am also going to look into moving my downpipe a bit farther away from coolant inlet as well as this might be contributing to my issues)
Then I just said ***k it I want at least some charted numbers out of this thing today as the dyno is not exactly cheap whether you get your print out or not so we set boost back down to around 15 and we did a pull which gave me the 235whp chart (mustang dyno numbers) you see here. I happy with the numbers, but the motor sounded sweeter than ever. Not a bad sound to hear after listening to it fall on its face during the 19psi runs lol
So...
The good news:
1. The new KL clutch held up great!
2. We EVENTUALLY recorded a 235whp run using mustang dyno numbers (thats ~270 flywheel! ) at 15psi. The Operator mentioned this way closer to 285 flywheel on dynojet numbers at 15psi.
3. The engine certainly CAN make 300 flywheel, however I needed 19psi to do it, which worries me a bit as my math tells me I should be there at 17psi.
The strange thing is on the street it doesnt reset. Operator mentioned that since i go through 3rd/4th much quicker on the street the problem probably just never surfaced, essentially from what we learned the ecu cannot handle high load/boost for long durations of time without resetting.
i am thinking this is due to me being a hack with the wiring. however i have not made any recent changes so it must be something that has been otherwise unnoticed on the street, even at 17+psi.
Anyways, Im leaving for vacation soon. Im happy I got to hit the dyno before leaving but look forward to playing more with my MS. Really wanna get back on the rollers and do a 19psi pull again once i sort out this electrical BS. The setup certainly proved to me today that it is able deliver 300hp, just needs a little more massaging to get everything right under high boost on the dyno.
peak printable numbers: 235whp / 206 wtrq using mustang numbers. Thats ~270HP at the Flywheel. Not bad for a 1991 Ford Escort GT motor
AND let it be known, that for a short period of time in the existance of this earth, 300 horsepower came out of a STOCK MSP axleback exhaust / racing beat muffler...lol
