here is a comparison of the shadow dash running on my crappy phone with my analog tach and digital boost controller. its not laggy at all imo. ill take on of my tablet sometime next week showing the HUD on the windshield at night. its pretty cool.
Jeff's MSP GTR Build
- Thread starter jeffmsp
- Start date
ill have a little fun with some video editing and see if i can put the real time log up running on the bottom of the screen to show the digital and analog displays vs the datalog in real time. i would like to compare it to the stock tach as well but i still havent gotten around to hooking that up
Pioneer has what is called AppRadio. While others have something similar called Mirrorlink. They require a physical connection to your phone because the phone is doing all the work and the head unit is doing little more than acting as the display and amplifier.
The physical connection makes the idea absolutely terrible in practice. You now have a cord hanging out somewhere in your car which looks incredibly tacky, then you have to remember to take your phone out of your pocket before getting in and then plug it in. I currently face this problem just for an aux cable to listen to Pandora in my car, and it is beyond obnoxious.
The only real Android running head unit is the Ca-Fi brand, but it is shady Chinese garbage at this point. The new model promises to be a lot better and it is specifically designed to work with Torque, but at a list price of $999, it is a tough pill to swallow. Also, it was supposed to be released in August and I still have to yet to see an actual review on it.
The physical connection makes the idea absolutely terrible in practice. You now have a cord hanging out somewhere in your car which looks incredibly tacky, then you have to remember to take your phone out of your pocket before getting in and then plug it in. I currently face this problem just for an aux cable to listen to Pandora in my car, and it is beyond obnoxious.
The only real Android running head unit is the Ca-Fi brand, but it is shady Chinese garbage at this point. The new model promises to be a lot better and it is specifically designed to work with Torque, but at a list price of $999, it is a tough pill to swallow. Also, it was supposed to be released in August and I still have to yet to see an actual review on it.
DiscreetSpeed
Member
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- 03 MSP
Impressive.. look forward to seeing more vids.
my e-Brake cable snapped- to get at where's it's snapped (assuming yours is snapped in the same spot, where the one cable splits off into two) you've got to remove the heat shield over the mid-pipe (or... some pipe that's MIDway from the front and back of the car... i don't know what it's name is) and mine's rusted on there pretty good. Hopefully yours comes off... or maybe it's already gone...
Since my eBrake is broke, i use the handle to hold a role of toilet paper. It comes in handy for lots of stuff.
If you still have your spare tire, you can just stick it under one of your tires when you park somewhere to keep your car from rolling away. I'm gona go with a big rock in the trunk.
by the way, nice build eh?
Since my eBrake is broke, i use the handle to hold a role of toilet paper. It comes in handy for lots of stuff.
If you still have your spare tire, you can just stick it under one of your tires when you park somewhere to keep your car from rolling away. I'm gona go with a big rock in the trunk.
by the way, nice build eh?
lol ya ive been keeping a parking chalk under my seat lately.
i am contemplating a hydrolic hand brake but would like to keep the cable braking system in tact for safety reasons. the trick is gona be getting one handle to operate both systems.
just adding the second e brake (hydrolic) does not seem too hard, but then i would be stuck with two ebrake handles which may be a little too jdm for me unless i could make it look really nice.
i am contemplating a hydrolic hand brake but would like to keep the cable braking system in tact for safety reasons. the trick is gona be getting one handle to operate both systems.
just adding the second e brake (hydrolic) does not seem too hard, but then i would be stuck with two ebrake handles which may be a little too jdm for me unless i could make it look really nice.
I know the MSPs have different rear calipers than the regular 3rd gens. I wouldn't think they would run a completely different e-brake setup tho. Specialized parts on for a limited edition version of a mass produced economy car doesn't make much sense from a budgeting perspective.
The rear calipers are just the calipers from the Mazda 6. I did think about that, but the e-brake cable isn't listed in the MSP catalog as an MSP specific part so I would think it is the same as a regular protege. I'd just buy one and see if it fits. If not, you are in the same boat as before. There are also MSP part outs every now and then on the forum.
black steelie snow rims and CF hood. lol both functional, but on different ends of the eye candy scale
also im pretty sure its just a stock protege ebrake cable. ill find one soon enough. broke right where it meets the two rear cables. I removed it last night and will start looking for a new cable locally.
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Yeah, not a big fan of the multi-color look. Plus you'll need to paint it if you want to keep it from yellowing and cracking. If you want to keep the CF exposed, there is clear paint that blocks UV, but it is expensive from what I've read. I just see too many POS ricers around here with faded CF hoods. There was a Civic that parked next to me at the grocery store that was absolutely filthy, the paint was completely deteriorated with dings and scratches everywhere. I was about to give the owner some grief for buying a CF hood and a poor fitting body kit, but not properly maintaining the rest of the car, but I was shocked to see it was a middle aged women with a small child. I can only guess it was her son's car, but figured her life was bad enough she didn't need my ridicule.
My hood is pretty sandblasted from 80k miles of AZ highways. To properly refinish the hood it will cost about $500, so I've debated getting a CF hood, but then I'd have to have it painted to match the car and they rarely fit perfectly which would annoy me if even the slightest bit off in any way. So my car will probably just stay the way it is. You can't tell unless you are within a foot or two of the car anyway. I should have clear bra'd it when I bought the car, but they are just as expensive and only last for so long. It really is impossible to keep a car perfect.
My hood is pretty sandblasted from 80k miles of AZ highways. To properly refinish the hood it will cost about $500, so I've debated getting a CF hood, but then I'd have to have it painted to match the car and they rarely fit perfectly which would annoy me if even the slightest bit off in any way. So my car will probably just stay the way it is. You can't tell unless you are within a foot or two of the car anyway. I should have clear bra'd it when I bought the car, but they are just as expensive and only last for so long. It really is impossible to keep a car perfect.
sounds like they bought bad hoods. this one has been driven year round for 2 years by previous owner and does not have any of the issues that you described above. maybe it already has that clear coat you mentioned? it was a one off made by a shop in burlington ontario canada. i guess they did a good job as it is still pretty much mint and the weave looks awsome. im more worried about it getting scratched when i scrape ice off the wipers and snow off the hood. if it ever does start to fade or yellow as you mentioned then i would think about painting it.
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got bored waiting for my buddy at the car wash so I made another video showing the launch control feature since thats what 90% of people on the internet msg me about anyways lol
Just building a few psi as an example of how the launch control feature of my megasquirt helps build boost at the line.
Just building a few psi as an example of how the launch control feature of my megasquirt helps build boost at the line.
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