Installing Springs...

I wouldn't chance it if you're not familiar with it. Look for a good body shop who knows what that term means. Basically rolling the inner lip of the rear fender up so it doesn't scrape on your wheels/tires and damage them. If done incorrectly, it can damage your paint bad.
 
Im starting to think maybe i just wont get spings at all.... I pay/payed way to much for this car to do anything like that...
 
if you are really worried about "messing your car up" you should just leave it stock. if you do it right and get the work done at a qualified and reputible shop you wont have to worry about messing up your car.
 
i cant find anything on here about it and on google they say use a heat gun and mallet...that to me sounds like it would look like garbage. Thats why i wish i could know NOW if i would need to do that or not.
 
So i just looked and they are 18"x8"..... with 225/40r/18 tires... anyone using the same size wheels and tires with H&Rs??
 
Well, typically for an 8" wheel, you go 235/40/18, so you might get some leeway by going with that skinnier tire.
 
you said you are running a 225/40/18 right? i'm running a 225/45/18 on my stock wheels and there is no rub. you say that your rims are not stock so what are the specs of your rims? if your wheels "poke" out or a flush with the fenders then you might have a problem. if not you will be just fine.

i'm on H&R's and i had a car full of ppl and i had no issues with the rears rubbing.

also like i said if you take it to a reputible shop they will roll your fenders the right way.
 
So its just the rears that rub normally? And as far as sticking out, im not sure. I will go look after work and see. What is the difference between the 225/40/18 and the 225/45/18? The tire height?
 
Put those sizes in a wheel/tire size calculator and see. 225 is a bit narrow for that wheel width.
 
Soooo....I bought the H&Rs.....Now what!!!??? I know there is a How-To... i think. But are there any tips? What about a hint on how i will know if the tires will rub? I know that sounds crazy but really, is it going to rub when i drop it off the lift or is it going to do it when i drive?
 
Soooo....I bought the H&Rs.....Now what!!!??? I know there is a How-To... i think. But are there any tips? What about a hint on how i will know if the tires will rub? I know that sounds crazy but really, is it going to rub when i drop it off the lift or is it going to do it when i drive?

Rears are easy, fronts take a bit of time, just make sure you have a spring compressor and air tools, and you can get them done in 2-3 hours working leisurely. I have a thread with my experiences with them after I did mine, didn't run into any snags at all.
 
Biggest tip--work safely, and make sure that you have the ball joint puller--basically a modified c-clamp--since it will make sense to do all that sh*t at once, and make the job a little easier, along with the air tools as Steve suggested. An impact wrench will be your best friend here. And it only takes a few hours from start to finish.

If all else fails, or you just don't feel like doing it, just pay someone or the dealer. Go out, enjoy yourself for a few hours, then come back and pick up your now-lowered bad-ass looking ride....just an option...

I wish I could tell you some secret short-cuts, but I couldn't find any. Last thing, get an alignment ASAP...
 
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I waited a week on the alignment, just to make sure the springs settled and all was well, but I agree on not slacking on that. I'm running mine with -1.5 deg. of camber front and rear (front isn't adjustable, I don't have the ABJs yet) and it works pretty well. A good alignment shop should be able to dial you in however you want.
 
I wasn't able to dissasemble the front shock/spring assembly, no impact wrench, so I just took the whole thing out and took it to a local shop that swapped the springs for me for around $30 - $40. Took longer but still cheaper than having them install the springs all together.
 
I waited a week on the alignment, just to make sure the springs settled and all was well, but I agree on not slacking on that. I'm running mine with -1.5 deg. of camber front and rear (front isn't adjustable, I don't have the ABJs yet) and it works pretty well. A good alignment shop should be able to dial you in however you want.

Mine is currently sitting at -0.7 on the fronts, and the same -1.5 on the rear. I'm a freak about tire wear, because I hate buying tires.

Do the H&R's cause that front spec to be out that far? I'm only asking since they provide just about the lowest drop--comparatively.
 
Mine is currently sitting at -0.7 on the fronts, and the same -1.5 on the rear. I'm a freak about tire wear, because I hate buying tires.

Do the H&R's cause that front spec to be out that far? I'm only asking since they provide just about the lowest drop--comparatively.

I would think so. I had the alignment checked less than a week ago and it was still sitting at -1.4, -1.5 L/R.
 
So is it just me or did anyone ever worry about the springs flying out?? Does that not really happen? With NO experience it shouldnt take more then 5-6 hours right? By no experience i mean with suspension. Ive changed CV axels and wheel bearing and brakes but nothing like shocks or springs...
 
So is it just me or did anyone ever worry about the springs flying out?? Does that not really happen? With NO experience it shouldnt take more then 5-6 hours right? By no experience i mean with suspension. Ive changed CV axels and wheel bearing and brakes but nothing like shocks or springs...

The rears aren't compressed enough to fly out, and the fronts are compressed on the strut housing. When you take the fronts off with the spring compressor, you'll need to make sure you have them compressed enough or they may fly off.

If you've got any know how of vehicle suspension, 3-4 hours with air tools is all it will take.

Is there a how to on the ball joints? I didnt see one last night...

There is a how-to somewhere, I think I have the instructions on my laptop at home. RPM sends them out with purchase IIRC.
 
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