How to: Install TRZ Transmission Mount

Thank you thank you for the awesome work. I might attempt this now. I did the rear and passenger side but this one intimidated me. I have had the mount for over a year!
A lifesaver you are!
 
its not that hard, i've done many at this point and its not as daunting as it seems! the result is well worth it
 
Thanks Ken I appreciate the support. And all you do for us.
I absolutely am going to look into getting this done now.
This is not the first time i have said this but;
this is the stuff that i hoped for when i joined Mazda 24/7 years ago.
Nice, and I mean nice.
thankee all.
 
Finally installed the rear motor and transmission mount this afternoon. Holy Shnikeys!! (wow)

Really blown away. We will see how I feel after a week of driving her to work but right now I couldn't be happier. Absolutely can't wait to autocross next weekend. No wheelhop FTW!! :)

This thread couldn't have proved more valuable so major thanks to Abilor, DaleNixon, ZooMIN3, Ken and every other participant . The install went without any major incident and that is the absolute best I could hope for. Froze the engine with 2 jacks and it didn't budge. Got both mounts installed by my lonesome in 2 hrs taking my time. Anyone else in the ATL area looking to do this mod PM me and I'd be glad to help.

And here comes the BUT ... forgot to reinstall a piece :D I know, I'm that guy. Didn't realize it until clean up time and, since everything seemed fine, decided to defer to the board whether I need go through the motions of reinstalling it. It's that little piece that hangs off the back of the "tripod", here it is:
IMG_0477.JPG


What is this thing and do I need it? Thanks for any input.
 
Looks like weight to combat NVH although I could be way off in left field.
 
Looks like weight to combat NVH although I could be way off in left field.
Yeah, that was about what I was guessing too. I decided to reinstall it yesterday after work. Can't say that it made a difference but the piece of mind is worth it. And it does take a while for the ECU to get its act together after a battery disconnect.

Also, the mounts are still rocking. It's like a car rejuvenation. But man is that tranny yelling at me now. You can hear what I think is the layshaft spinning, and the syncros spool and the gear engagement. It's totally nuts. As long as the vibes mute a little bit, like everyone seems to say they will, I'm sure I'll be very happy with the mounts for the foreseeable future.

Just being able to launch and feel your tires clawing at the pavement makes it so worth it.
 
Yeah, that was about what I was guessing too. I decided to reinstall it yesterday after work. Can't say that it made a difference but the piece of mind is worth it. And it does take a while for the ECU to get its act together after a battery disconnect.

Also, the mounts are still rocking. It's like a car rejuvenation. But man is that tranny yelling at me now. You can hear what I think is the layshaft spinning, and the syncros spool and the gear engagement. It's totally nuts. As long as the vibes mute a little bit, like everyone seems to say they will, I'm sure I'll be very happy with the mounts for the foreseeable future.

Just being able to launch and feel your tires clawing at the pavement makes it so worth it.

great stuff :D thanks again. and yes that mount piece is for NVH.
 
I just finished the install by myself this morning. It is a simple procedure after following this writeup. The only thing I would change is that I jacked up the tranny not at the place that looks like a bolt hole. The mount location keeps the motor not only from falling down, but from pivoting forward. So I set the jack with a piece of wood further forward on the housing between the mating surfaces of the motor/tranny. I was able to just move the tranny pretty carefully to line up the big 17mm bolt when reinstalling the new mount. It was a snap. Only needed one floor jack.

I would say that anybody considering purchasing the rear MM should really purchase this as well. The noise in the cabin definitely is louder, and can hear all the chatter from the clutch as well as sychro and gear whine BUT... the vibrations are much less than just the TRZ rear MM alone. I had just the rear MM in yesterday morning and was not thrilled with the vibration. Wifey said it was worse than a diesel truck.

Further, i am much more comfortable shifting now. It is not the silkiness of a honda tranny, but it is leagues better than stock. No more 2-3 scariness. Just snick snick...
 
Just got mine today. If it wasn't so late I would do it now. Can't wait to install it, hopefully sooner than later.
 
Did the install today and it was actually a breeze, minus getting the freaking battery out. The engine didn't even move a millimeter. Anyway, it is soooo freaking loud. I would swear I was driving a MAC truck with a jet engine. I expected there to be more noise, but it's insane how much noise this thing makes. Is it possible that I tightened down the main bolt too much? I didn't use a torque wrench. Just tightened it to the point that I felt like it was nice and snug. Someone please tell me that after a couple hundred miles it will get better. On the plus side though, there is absolutely no engine movement what so ever. It's like the RMM x10. Awesome performance mod.
 
Thank you for this how to! It made a big difference since my factory mount was trashed!
IMG_7295.jpg
IMG_7296.jpg
 
Last edited:
dumb question(?) will the ECU still need time to "settle down" if I simply reflash with AP? Also, on that note, will I need to reflash with AP after battery disconnect? Man I can't wait to get this stuff on (stupid Winter and no garage).
 
Disconnecting the battery will reset the ecu so yes drive casual for the first 50 mile or so. No need to reflash with AP.
 
Just read through all 5 pages, and I noticed that no one said anything about putting some thread locker on that main "10" bolt. After hearing about the horror stories about stock mounts failing, the least one could do is throw on some blue thread locker and torque it down to factory specs. It'd give you extra piece of mind.
 
Just read through all 5 pages, and I noticed that no one said anything about putting some thread locker on that main "10" bolt. After hearing about the horror stories about stock mounts failing, the least one could do is throw on some blue thread locker and torque it down to factory specs. It'd give you extra piece of mind.

I did. And BTW, "factory" specs on the new "10" bolt are 67 ft. lbs. Apparently the old bolt was something like 90 ft. lbs. A Mazda mechanic that helped fix a stud I sheared off looked it up in a service bulletin. And those 4 "smaller" nuts (still 17 mm.), are suppose to be torqued to 40 in lbs., NOT ft. lbs. I sheared off one of the factory studs tightening these as they were SO impossible to get off I needed a 2 ft. breaker bar. Figured I'd torque them down to 70# and then "bang", sheared a stud off. Felt sick and had to drive very gently for 2 weeks, until that mechanic helped me drill it out and put in a new stud. So be careful about over torquing everything.
 

Attachments

  • PA040150.JPG
    PA040150.JPG
    881.4 KB · Views: 264
  • PA040152.JPG
    PA040152.JPG
    836.2 KB · Views: 238
Last edited:
thanks for posting this install write up with images. looking forward to installing the trz engine and trans mount as well as the awr pmm. ordered them all from protege garage, at least there was free shipping because i did it in two orders (i knew my pmm was failing, but only found out a few days later that the trans mount was torn when i was removing the previous owners stereo wiring, figure i was looking at doing the rmm anyway, might as well just do all three at once). can't wait until they get here now so the fun can begin
 
I hope you will post a report of your results somewheres. You will likely say wtf or say wow afyer some driving time.. When i replaced my pmm it was torn and i had no idea because i had installed a corksport rmm insert soon after i bought the car and all seemed fine. i love the mm upgrades. higher duro the better imho. the stock stuff was way too soft for the power of this motor.
Welcome to the forum and i hope you enjoy the car!
btw. how to's are one of the best parts of our forum, i have used them more than once.
eric
 
I am so thankful that this how to is here. Among others. I just broke/ripped my trans mount it seems. I had the car reset for 21 lbs of boost and the violence it caused at first seemed i broke an axle or sheared splines. i love the forum for the helping hands!!
 
Just installed this on my 2010 2.5. In my opinion except for having to take a lot of crap apart this was easier than the dog bone (as I had to cut my stock mount). The only flub up I did was installed the TRZ supplied washer and the stock washer. Nothing serious just the rubber is compressed a bit more.

But man talk about vibrations, it caught me off guard. The car definitely has some new rattles to it.
 
thanks for this write up! i did this install by myself in about 40mins was great! with this write up it for sure cut my install time in half!
 
Back