How many Brits? Fancy a cuppa?

I have to agree a very good post from Perusal. I have taken a different approach and do use supermarket fuels , but then dose each tank with Millers Power Ecomax using 1ml per 1 Litre of fuel. 60 buys a 5litre container which is enough for 5000 litres of fuel or quite a lot of miles. Of course this works out a hell of a lot cheaper than buying Vpower and the like. As I tend to keep my vehicles around 10 years or longer I hope to reap the long term benefits.

As I understand it after swallowing some of the marketing Hype, additives like Millers increase the Lubricity of the Derv which in turn helps to preserve the fuel pump system, as well as increase the cetane rating (combustibility) of the base fuel which means a cleaner burn and less smoke to clog a DPF filter. Having used it in quite a few cars I found it did reduce the smokey exhaust on my Euro111 spec Signum 3.0 as well as provide smoother running. A little subjective observation possibly, but perhaps Perusal could comment with more authority?

In truth I have never bought into fuel additives though that's not to say there are not benefits to be had. Millers are a highly regarded company. However a standard fuel provided by any of the majors should suffice since the adpacks used in the fuels should provide all the necessary detergency, combustion improvers and lubricity agents necessary.

The lubricity issues arose with the introduction of ultra low sulphur fuels whereby sulphur is removed from the fuel during the refining process. Sulphur is a very good anti-wear/ extreme pressure agent so while we were busy reducing sulphurous emissions we were also harming anti-wear properties.

I guess the use of an aftermarket adpack such as that described would be useful for a period of time if you are buying a second hand car about whose history you know nothing if only to attempt to clean up the engine.

As I alluded to above, I purchase 95%+ of my fuel from the major brands usually on the basis of price, it has to be said, since I do believe they will all be pretty much on a par although they may have got there using different chemistries. I cannot see the benefits of having just spent nigh on 24K on a new car and then saving about 25 a year on fuel. It's a bit like feeding your kids on supermarket brand burgers, it will do the job but wouldn't you want to give them the best (if you can afford to, that is ), less chance of 'eating horse' as they say.......but each to their own

...and I should perhaps add, that my speciality was in lubricants rather than fuels, though when you sit next to the fuels folk and have lunch with them over 25 years one is bound to pick something up :)

Believe me, if misunderstandings occur with fuels they are nothing compared to some of the things I have read about engine oils where specification and grade are constantly confused but that's a story for another day!
 
UK "nearly" owner here. Paid the deposit yesterday and waiting for my delivery date. They found one in the system which is just 2-3 weeks away in the spec and trim that I wanted. Sport Nav 2.2 Diesel 150PS in Meteor Grey and Stone leather.

I am lucky that they just opened their UK flag ship dealership 15mins away on the Purley Way. I had very good service from the sales staff I am just hoping the after sales is as good. They tolerated my two children treating their show room like a playground ... hoping in and out of cars.
 
Can you explain why they should be the same type? (Assuming you are referring to brand)

I can understand that they need to be the same size, profile etc. but I don't understand why they need to be the same type. I would have thought that if tyre selection was so critical in the event of a puncture that something would be mentioned in the manual.

It also raises the question about fitting a new tyre opposite a worn tyre on the same axle given that both tyres will have a slightly different rolling circumference

Interesting stuff this......

HI Persusal, by type I meant size, profile etc. but of course if you were to use a temporary space saver what would happen then?

I'm wondering if on my 2WD the fronts run down their tread more the wheel diameter will be different to the rears and set the tpms off. There is a recommendation to rotate the wheels every 5 or 6k I believe, but that may apply more to 4wd models. Believe it or not on this particular subject I haven't read the manual which is unusual for me. I suspect the TPMS measures the rotation of each individual wheel for differences rather than expecting each wheel to be the same. - You could have different tyre pressures from to back and that would set the sensor off otherwise.

I'm guessing after resetting the tpms, each wheel must be monitored for a deviation in the rotational difference from the time it was reset. and a 10% difference would flash up a warning.
 
Hi all

New to the site today. To cut a long story short we are on holiday on the Isle of Wight at the moment and I've test driven a 2.2L Diesel 175hp Sport Nav manual and I thought what a brilliant car. The option I would be considering (but no demo in until later this week) is an SE-L Nav 2WD 150HP Auto. What is the main difference in handling, road noise and responsiveness compared to the version I tried earlier this week?

Also, I noticed no door mirror vibration or bonnet movement whist driving over some very rough potholed roads. We would like to purchase from the IOW when next on holiday so we get a "HW" prefix on the number plate plus the salesman at Northwood Garage in Cowes was the most helpful I've ever come across in my new car buying activities.

Update 10/09/2013

Tried the auto version today and definitely made my mind up that my next car will be a CX5 Auto. It drove like a dream and it confirmed to me how good the ride, handling and road noise was. Rob at Northwood Garage Cowes was as helpful as before. Just got to time it right with finances and trade in etc and might end up buying one sooner rather than later as I was so impressed.


Cheers all

Jonno21

Hi all

I was so impressed with my test drives I've opened the piggy bank and put down a deposit on a white 2.2 diesel 150 SE-L Nav 2WD Auto with Northwood Mazda on the IOW. It is due to be built end September with delivery early to mid November. Any excuse for another few days on the IOW! it will be nice to see the island in the autumn.

Cheers

Jonno21
 
I hope you still have the punctured tyre as its probably repairable.

I've had three tyres hot vulcanise repaired, not cheap but if the tyre is nearly new its cost effective.

Also as Dad says the tyre pressure monitor works of the "ABS" sensors, and I'm told by a forum member that the alarm will sound on a 10% error.

xtrailman,

Thanks for the advice. The tyre is still on the car and don't think it's leaking any air at all. I've found a local tyre specialist and will be taking the car there to see if he can do a hot vulcanisation.

As I mentioned in the original post the TPMS appears to have detected the pressure reduction (leak) from a set pressure of 34 psi down to the 28 psi I measured after I discovered the screw stuck in the tread - that's around an 18% reduction. In a way I suppose it's reassuring to have the system because I'd never have noticed the loss of air visually, and have to admit that I don't check tyre pressures routinely, today's tyres just don't lose pressure in my experience. And the question of what happens if/when the space saver wheel is fitted has occurred to me. Presumably the audio and visual warnings come on, but in my case the audio alarm stopped (can't remember if I had to cancel it).

I've sent a message to Mazda asking them to confirm that it's not necessary to fit the same tyre as originally fitted (Yokohama), as long as the size and spec of the replacement are the same.
 
xtrailman,

Thanks for the advice. The tyre is still on the car and don't think it's leaking any air at all. I've found a local tyre specialist and will be taking the car there to see if he can do a hot vulcanisation.

As I mentioned in the original post the TPMS appears to have detected the pressure reduction (leak) from a set pressure of 34 psi down to the 28 psi I measured after I discovered the screw stuck in the tread - that's around an 18% reduction. In a way I suppose it's reassuring to have the system because I'd never have noticed the loss of air visually, and have to admit that I don't check tyre pressures routinely, today's tyres just don't lose pressure in my experience. And the question of what happens if/when the space saver wheel is fitted has occurred to me. Presumably the audio and visual warnings come on, but in my case the audio alarm stopped (can't remember if I had to cancel it).

I've sent a message to Mazda asking them to confirm that it's not necessary to fit the same tyre as originally fitted (Yokohama), as long as the size and spec of the replacement are the same.

M4zda Man. - you mentioned Bristol earlier in the thread. If you live in that proximity I can point you to a professional vulcaniser just to the east of the city where they repaired a tyre of mine a couple of years back for 20. Given they had tractor tyres and stuff standing taller than a person I think it's fair to say they know the business. :)
 
Hi Perusal,

Thank you for the offer; actually I'm 40 miles north of Bristol, and have just got back from a local tyre vulcaniser - he's going to do it tomorrow for 27, a lot better than Mazda's new tyre quote!!
 
So, I got the car yesterday after a 4 months wait...6 hours and 40 miles old, parked at a Spar shop for 5 minutes and I come back to this....

16aqogp.jpg


Hoping I can get a SMART repair. What a nightmare! No CCTV outside the Spar unfortunately.
 
So, I got the car yesterday after a 4 months wait...6 hours and 40 miles old, parked at a Spar shop for 5 minutes and I come back to this....

16aqogp.jpg


Hoping I can get a SMART repair. What a nightmare! No CCTV outside the Spar unfortunately.

Hi Jimihat

My heart sank when I saw that and I feel for you. Some people have absolutely no respect for other people's worked hard for property. It's not like they wouldn't have known (headshake

Jonno21
 
Sorry to see the damage on your car I cant understand these people who just don't care.I have fitted a blackvue dash cam for this exact reason I know how you feel as this happened to my previous car.
 
I'll never understand parking with the sheeple. You gotta walk it to protect it, plus it's good for you. My shop rite walk is a full 100 yards up hill, planet fitness walk is 60+, walmart is 100 yards, Home Depot the same. When I see a sweet ride parked with the sheeple I always take a look, invariably it's got door dings. This ill never understand.
 
So, I got the car yesterday after a 4 months wait...6 hours and 40 miles old, parked at a Spar shop for 5 minutes and I come back to this....

16aqogp.jpg


Hoping I can get a SMART repair. What a nightmare! No CCTV outside the Spar unfortunately.

Really sorry to see that, one can only imagine how you must feel.

Unfortunately that is going to be beyond a SMART repair and from past experience you will need them to check the chassis/ sub frame or whatever. The crumple zones that are designed into cars these days often mean there is some kind of impact absorbing mechanism behind the bumper. Had a similar impact on my daughters Vauxhall Corsa a few years back. The visible damage looked fairly superficial but the damage behind the bumper was considerable.

Good luck, however it turns out.

Oh, and my wife came back to her parked car a few years back to find that a truck had gone down 50% of the side causing extensive damage. There were witnesses to the accident but nobody took the truck's number so we had no recourse. Makes you want to spit.
 
I feel your pain Jimihat.


one can only hope whoever did that has the same done to them x 10 when they return to their parked car. Maybe then they'll realise how low their behaviour was.

I've had two drive off's done to the same car in two years. That was about 8 years ago. Now I park well away from any popular place. It seems the nearer you park to a destination the more numpties there are to praang your car.
 
1. The oil level is now just over half way to the "X" mark on the dipstick and I have done just over 6,000 miles. is there a satisfactory reason or fix for this?
2. On full or dipped beam and at maximum height adjustment the headlights are still not as high as I would like them to be. I had quite a bit better lighting on my previous VW Touran and even on my wife's Citroen C3.
The dealer checked them 2 days ago and pronounced them perfectly set. I am seriously considering having them checked independently by an MOT garage. Does anybody else have problems with the lights?
I would appreciate any comments, thanks.
 
Re #1. My oil was at the X at 6000 miles, managed to get Mazda to cover the cost of what I felt was a premature oil change. They agreed mainly due to the (ongoing) TomTom issues. The dipstick, sensor & ECU mods have hopefully reduced the need on that one. The bonus being the fuel consumption figures improved dramatically, regarding the oil levels time will tell as I had another oil change 3000 miles later as was due according to the expiry of the first 12 months. Would't have bothered but I like to keep the service records within the prescribed parameters.

Re #2. No problem with headlight alignment as far as I'm concerned. Lower than my previous car, but I never liked that one as shone into the trees too much.

Not much help I know.

Alex
 
Rising oil level

Re #1. My oil was at the X at 6000 miles, managed to get Mazda to cover the cost of what I felt was a premature oil change. They agreed mainly due to the (ongoing) TomTom issues. The dipstick, sensor & ECU mods have hopefully reduced the need on that one. The bonus being the fuel consumption figures improved dramatically, regarding the oil levels time will tell as I had another oil change 3000 miles later as was due according to the expiry of the first 12 months. Would't have bothered but I like to keep the service records within the prescribed parameters.

Re #2. No problem with headlight alignment as far as I'm concerned. Lower than my previous car, but I never liked that one as shone into the trees too much.

Not much help I know.

Alex

Thanks Alex.
You mention the dipstick, sensor and ECU mods you have had done. Were these in connection with the oil change or did they come about by some other way and did you ask for them or is it something the dealer automatically does the next time you have the car in?
 
Thanks guys, looking increasingly like an insurance job. Noit the first time I've been hit whilst parked but I just can't believe my luck with that one! Worse things happen at sea I guess, gutted though.
 
Thanks Alex.
You mention the dipstick, sensor and ECU mods you have had done. Were these in connection with the oil change or did they come about by some other way and did you ask for them or is it something the dealer automatically does the next time you have the car in?

Had a phone call from the dealer in April re the dip-stick & ECU, then a letter from Mazda a couple of weeks later re the exhaust sensor. Yours was possibly done prior to delivery assuming you have not had the car that long. If not check with any dealership and they can look it up on the system.
 
Jack
You should have a dipstick with a letter "c" on it.

I have only done 1600 miles and the oil level is the same, no rise.
 
Hi,

I had a hot vulcanisation repair on my punctured tyre as perusal had suggested, no problem. When I first became aware of the slow puncture I was 40 miles from home and as there appeared to be no significant pressure loss, I drove home, but of course had it been a full deflation I would have had to use the 'inflation kit' Mazda supplied. I understand that once used the tyre cannot be repaired and would need to be replaced.

My point is that I ordered and paid for a space saver wheel with the car back in June, and when I took delivery 2 weeks ago . . . no spare! I'm told there is an ongoing problem with this item. Bizarrely the dealer has the wheel in stock but can't get hold of the tyre. Anyway, I'm now feeling that Mazda will have to bear the cost of a new tyre should a similar situation arise, where use of a spare wheel would permit a normal puncture repair and save the cost (Mazda quote: 250) of a new tyre.

Incidentally, approaching my first fuel fill up and the average fuel economy indicator is showing 40.1 MPG - I'll check the exact value at fill up.
 

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