fuel pump internals upgrade 101

[cghms3]

I have a 09 mazdaspeed3 with mscai, mscatback exhaust, Hypertech tune, sure rmm, and ms coilovers. I've read in other threads that the fuel pump is a weak link, and many have upgraded the internals, and I understand that there
are two fuel pumps. I don't know anything about this mod. 1) Which fuel pump (and where) is upgraded. 2) what companies make the internal upgrades, and how do I find them 3) I won't even try to do it, I will have a shop do the job. 3) How do I know if and when my fuel pump is failing - I don't want to ruin my engine, I do run the car hard sometimes. Thanks!

 

[DuoofDeath1]

1. There is one in the actual gas tank and one on top of the engine. you are upgraging the one on the engine
2. KMD and AutoTech make the internals that you just replace. CP-e has a whole new pump that you install and send your back to get some money back. I have heard that AutoTech are the best though(value and reliability)
3. The only way to know if it is failing is to monitor fuel pressure. I am not sure if the Hypertech can do that but i know the Cobb AccessPort can. You need the fuel pressure to be at or around 1600 psi or you could be headed to engine failure.

Personally i think you are fine where you are now with your mods. The gen1 can take more bolt-ons before they need the internals. If you want to do a downpipe then you will need internals. I personally would also sell the hypertech and buy a Cobb AP, the gains are alot better/manageable and it lets you monitor a lot more and can be hooked up to a computer to download logs.

 

[cghms3]

Thanks for all the info DuoofDeath1 - just want to be safe!!

 

[PakmanMP5]

I would say just get it. I only have a TIP and short ram and I'm going to get the internals before I go into big mods. Just a Peace of Mind.

 

[cghms3]

yeah, better to play it safe!

 

[zoomzoomMSP]

yeah i just replaced my fuel pump internals with the upgraded internals from PTP Performance, my mode are in my sig. one thing is the hypertech runs a little higher boost over factory so it puts more demand on the fuel pump. i have a dashhawk to monitor everything and i noticed that under heavy throttle the fuel pressure dropped off alot which caused a stuttered in the acceleration that you could feel driving the car. i did the upgrade right away, i did it myself....its really not that big of a deal, just take your time. anyway even if your stocker is functioning now it a good idea to do it anyway, peace of mind is great. but with your mods youll notice a difference in the performance...i did anyway. price seems to be fairly close on internals...... Autotech seems to be the favored manufacturer. i went with PTP because i got a great deal from a member here. im real happy with my results i have about 6k on the new internals and its been awesome.

 

[cghms3]

What am I looking at, price wise for the parts? Does it break the bank or can I squeeze it on my almost maxed out credit card!

 

[gpower]

I have autotech. Dp, ap, sri, tip. Now very fast and happy.

 

[magicka]

What am I looking at, price wise for the parts? Does it break the bank or can I squeeze it on my almost maxed out credit card!

Right around $350, depending on brand and vendor.

 

[cghms3]

Thanks for everbodys input - Im thinking Autotech - can someone setup a link to Autotech's site?

 

[dannythall]

Here ya go for the Autotech

http://www.***************/Autotech_High_Pressure_Fuel_Pump_Internals_p/at-10-127-100k.htm

you might consider these internals as well, they seem pretty solid and have good feedback on forums. Also 20 bucks cheaper on that maxed out card, every little bit helps

http://www.kmdtuning.com/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=1153

and if you decide to try to do it yourself, here is a sticky walk-through

http://**************************/forum/f429/fuel-pump-internals-install-76252/

Good luck, and like others have said, make your next purchase an accessport and get to logging so you can see the results

 

[dannythall]

It seems my street unit post was unacceptable. So try here as well

http://www.edgeautosport.com/autotech-hi-volume-fuel-pump-upgrade-kit/

or just go to *************** under mazdaspeed3, search Autotech and voila

 

[cghms3]

Thanks dannythall - I was web surfing and found the edgeautosport website before I read your post! Tons of cool stuff on their site - my wife is going to kill me (Ha-Ha). Whats your thought about oil catch-cans - is that a smart move? Thanks again to you and everyone else for your help. At the very least, I will get the Autotech rebuild kit next month.

 

[dannythall]

NP cghms3, just don't go overboard, once you start buying stuff it gets hard to stop.

An OCC is never a bad idea, it's a great preventative measure for your car. A little searching will show the gunk these things filter out. Matt Damond makes a quality one (on another forum) and I know there are others out there, some more searching would help you decide what you'd like to do. But yes you should buy one, I plan on it soon as well.

And just a tip, I don't know tons about the Hypertech tune you may have flashed, but if it is targeting higher than stock boost you may want to flash it back to stock until you get your internals. Every car reacts differently to a tune and unless you can view/log your fuel pressure (again if its below 1600psi during wot) and be certain your stocker isn't shitting the bed it might be a good idea. Again you may be fine, looking through your mods the tune seems to be the only thing that may cause you to need internals, but you seem to care enough about your car to not push it.

 

[cghms3]

yes, I can't afford a blown engine, so I do take good care of the car (i.e. drive the car easy for the first 20 minutes before giving it some harder acceleration). I am kind of disappointed that our cars our somewhat fragile, and having an 09, that Mazda would have surely fixed all the bugs - so far, two recalls on it, the windshield wiper motor mod, and the timing chain issue. I don't want to be paranoid, and I want to be able to drive the car hard without worrying about a rod through the block etc, but geez....I will take your advice and take the tune off until I get the fuel pump internals, and then put the tune back on. Only then I will be somewhat confident the motor is setup properly to run hard anytime. I just wish Mazda did not cut corners. Its a great car for the $, and I've embarrassed a few 5.0's! Thanks again dannythall - oil catch can down the road!(will THAT delete the need to seafoam the motor after xx miles?

 

[dannythall]

Yeah, every car has its kinks, but don't be fooled, our DISI engine and ECU are full of potential. Most cars when you begin tuning will have OEM parts that need upgraded anyways, count your blessings that you don't have a genpu, they need internals after an intake.

And just to clarify, you'd more than likely be fine keeping the tune as long as you're not going wot everywhere. You seem to drive it carefully. But if you can't see whats going on through a log and you're concerned, removing the tune for a month is not a horrible idea, if not just for piece of mind. After the internals are installed give er hell.

I can't stress enough that an accessport should be a priority purchase. If not for a better tune then for the ability to see how your car is running. But you haven't done enough to worry about sending a rod through the block. And I actually haven't heard of sea foaming? Not sure what thats about but maybe someone else can shed some light on it for the both of us.

 

[cghms3]

yes, I know very little about seafoaming, and when to do it, but I believe its supposed to clean out the carbon/oil buildup in our internals, but a seafoaming 101 would be great-could someone help both dannythall and me on what seafoaming is all about, what are the cars symptoms (drivability, etc), and would an oil catch can make having to "seafoam" the motor nil? Your are spot on dannythall about me being easy on the motor, one more thing I never do (well, maybe one time) I never drop-clutch, speed shift, or go wot in first, and I wait until 3K before leaning on the go-pedal.

 

[cghms3]

Hey dannythall - You touched on another area I am not informed of, and that is monitoring gauges. Monitoring air/fuel ratios and boost seem to be the two areas to keep an eye on - what is the proper a/f ratio for our cars? I believe boost should be 16psi - is that a number that is constant until getting close to red line where it should taper off? (I usually shift by 5500-5800 rpms) And what brand is very good - Dashawk for a/r and who for boost monitoring? Thanks again!

 

[magicka]

A Dashhawk can be set to monitor any number of things, including boost/vac, a/f ratio, intake temps, boost temps, fuel pressure, etc. If you only want to buy one device, the DH is it.

Air/fuel at idle and cruise should be around 14.7:1, lower at WOT (in the 11s) and higher under decel. Boost should spike and hold to 16psi and taper off above 5000 rpm or so on a stock tune.

 

[cghms3]

Thanks for the great info magicka - I will get the Dashhawk, it sounds like the best solution for my needs! I want the interior to look as stock as possible (the sleeper look), and the Dashhawk will get the job done. Also, thanks for the info on the a/f and boost parameters, I now have some idea of what all the numbers mean, and what's going on with the motor. Im not sure if I will be doing anymore engine mods besides the fuel pump internals and oil catch can, but the Dashhawk is on the list. Where would the best placement be - the A-pillar? Also magicka, do you know anything about seafoaming, and if installing the oil catch can will negate the need for seafoaming. And if I still need to seafoam the motor, at what milage do I seafoam the motor, or what are the symptoms that will require seafoaming. Anyway, thanks again - I now have alot of good info on my car to make it safe so I can run it hard sometimes without worrying.