Chef's 1994 MX6 build thread

[Chefsp0t]

You and me both. I just want to drive it!

So I am going to need an exhaust and I want to go with 3" pipes. I am toying with the idea of just doing a straight through system with blast pipes on the end like you'd see on a drift car. Not sticking out far or at a crazy angle but it would be loud and crazy sounding.

Similar to this kind of setup.

 

[ajkulish]

i really like the looks of that, no doubt you will be loud with that and an open wastegate but it shouldnt be too bad since the turbo muffles your sound. i have a 4-1 header, sls catless 2.5 inch midpipe and 3 inch non resonated underaxle exhaust and its pretty damn loud, but its tolerable. i could imagine itll be ok with a turbo in there.

 

[Chefsp0t]

I could always add a resonator later on if it gets too loud. I removed the radio/speakers anyway and plan on pulling the interior out too so it will be better than the radio. You're absolutely right about the turbo quieting it down some. My buddy's msp has a 3" exhaust and it was loud but not crazy.

I am going to start with a VTA wastegate and if I don't like it I will get the dump pipe hooked up to the downpipe. Going to see how I like it open first.

This looks like what I need. I'll have to measure tomorrow and make sure there is room.

http://www.forcedfabllc.com/isis-universal-3-dual-tip-rear-exhaust-sectionm-blast-pipes/

 

[Chefsp0t]

Got some stuff mounted up today. Waiting on more parts before I can get anything else done.

Still need to mount the wastegate. Got a dump pipe on the way.

 

[ajkulish]

dang thats expensive for blast pipes, im sure you could have someone make you some for cheaper.

 

[Chefsp0t]

Forgive the question but my brain is only half working today after a long Easter Sunday brunch at work.

I want to rewire the cooling fans (2 radiator fans and 1 on the radiator for my water to air intercooler setup) and the water to air intercooler pump to switches on the dash. It's just going to be easier to have fan control than to mess with the relays and temp sensors in the stock wiring. The steps would be like this, right?

1. Find a good grounding point for the negative wires.
2. Connect the negative wires to the fans and run them to the switches.
3. Run negative wire to the grounding point with an inline fuse (20amp?) between them.
5. Wire fans with positive wire and run wires to positive battery terminal.

Just seeing if my thought process sounds right. I think i am going to try to find a 4 switch board with built in fuse locations for ease of use and installation. Does the fuse go on the positive wire or the negative wire? It's been too long since I wired anything that required fuses.

 

[ajkulish]

i dont know about the fuse, but the setup for the inline switch sounds right. you could also tap your power wire into the cooling fan fuse spot in the fuse box and push the fuse in on top of it, it the amperage gets too high itll blow the fuse and you wont have to worry about connecting to the battery terminal.

 

[Chefsp0t]

Yeah that was way off of what would be the best way to go. Like you said, connect to the fan fuse. I also decided to just wire both radiator fans onto one switch. Then another switch will turn on the fan on the water to air setup radiator and the pump for the system.

 

[ajkulish]

why dont you just wire the cooling fans to run automatically and the ic fan to be on a switch?

 

[mac1]

may I suggest a hushpower Flowmaster muffler that looks identical to a cat in place of it and then your strait pipes out the back.

 

[Chefsp0t]

I still want to run without a muffler first and see how loud it is. The turbo will quiet it down some but if it is still loud I will probably add an in-line muffler.

AJ- I will look at the wiring diagram and see. Maybe I will just leave the radiator fans on the factory wiring and wire up the other fan and water pump to switches.

 

[ajkulish]

thatd be the most efficient way. when youre under hard driving, youre not gonna wanna have to constantly be staring at the water temp gauge and flicking fan switches.

 

[Chefsp0t]

I'm thinking about just wiring them to one switch and flipping it on with the car and the water to air switch. No reason to turn them off but it would be nice to be able to let the water to air fluid circulate when the car isn't moving.

Just got done installing my new shorter alternator belt (deleted AC system) and swapped out 4 out of 6 spark plugs. Have to dig 2 dust boots out of the head but at least they are on cylinders 2 and 4 so they are right in front. The rear bank would suck balls. Thinking about just putting some silicone gasket seal on the end of the plug wire where the dust boot sits, plugging them back in, and pulling the plug wires back out in an hour or two.

 

[magnumP5]

The best setup with electric fans is to run them off a switch connected to a temperature sensor. What are you using to control this beast? Mosr aftermarket ECU's have some kind of switched output that can be used to turn on a fan. You really don't want to have to worry about switching the fans on every time you come to a stop (they shouldn't be running while the car is at speed). You defnitely don't want them on all the time because electric fans draw a large amount of current. Best way to wire them in is to use a dedicated power wire from the battery that's a good-sized diameter (12 AWG?), use a good common engine or chassis ground, and utilize a relay.

 

[Chefsp0t]

In that case I'll just wire into the factory wiring plugs. I am not using electronic tuning for as long as I can help it. I have a megasquirt sitting in a box ready to go but after tuning my last car on megasquirt I'd almost rather leave this one without. The AFR and FMU should suffice. People have made my power goal without ems.

 

[Lewis7789]

Why not just a simple $45 electric fan controller from Advanced? I'm out of my league here but that's what I used on my last KL swap without any issues.

 

[magnumP5]

In that case I'll just wire into the factory wiring plugs. I am not using electronic tuning for as long as I can help it. I have a megasquirt sitting in a box ready to go but after tuning my last car on megasquirt I'd almost rather leave this one without. The AFR and FMU should suffice. People have made my power goal without ems.

Are you using a stock or aftermarket electric fan? If aftermarket I'd be hesitant using the stock wiring as it's not intended to support the current drawn by aftermarket fans. See if you can't trace the factory power wire back to a relay and then from there to its power supply and replace. That being said I did run two SPAL fans off the stock wiring in my old P5 without issue. The fans probably weren't operating at their fullest though.

 

[Chefsp0t]

There was an aftermarket fan on stock wiring already but I removed the remaining stock one and will be replacing it with aftermarket as well. I have some time to decide what way to wire them up I guess. I can still start the car up without the fans wired since it won't be running for long or be moving yet without an exhaust.

 

[magnumP5]

Why not just a simple $45 electric fan controller from Advanced? I'm out of my league here but that's what I used on my last KL swap without any issues.

Are those the ones with the sensor you stick into the radiator fins? I don't like that because I feel it can give a false temperature reading depending where the sensor was placed. A stock setup is good but the wiring isn't meant to hold up to high-current aftermarket fans. Do they make aftermaket fan controllers that rely on coolant temperature?

 

[Chefsp0t]

Yeah I don't like that idea either but you could add a sensor that's actually in the coolant to control the fans. There is an in-line temperature sensor in the bay now. Just no way to use it as a fan switch.