A few issues and questions for the pro5 enthusiasts

Only get one non fouler for the last O2 sensor in the exhaust tract, it should be in the last few inches of your header leading to the rest of your exhaust. It takes the O2 sensor a lil farther out of the header tricking the ECU into believing that you are running with less emissions. The search button should lead you to the how to on here.
 
The afr gauge I have only has 3 wires coming out the back of it, red, black, and purple.

without even seeing a picture, i can tell you its an Autometer narrow band gauge. it gets connected to the front o2 sensor, and its more light show than anything else. (i have one in my car)
 
Me personally, and now this is my opinion, I wouldn't waste my time on the A/F Gauge. These cars need more monitoring on Oil Pressure, Water Temperature, and if you want Oil Temperature to start off when you're N/A only if you want to know your numbers. Vacuum and Volts/Amps if your concerned about power usage. Make it count on your car.

But to each their own, it's your ride.
 
If you end up needing to replace your EGR I have a canadaian version i never used BNIB...pm me if you're interested. However I wish you much luck in fixing your problems vivid.
 
Me personally, and now this is my opinion, I wouldn't waste my time on the A/F Gauge. These cars need more monitoring on Oil Pressure, Water Temperature, and if you want Oil Temperature to start off when you're N/A only if you want to know your numbers. Vacuum and Volts/Amps if your concerned about power usage. Make it count on your car.

But to each their own, it's your ride.

i very much agree. however, mine was free, so i hooked it up for kicks.
 
If the car had been sitting for 3 years I would think you need to do an oil change if you haven't and then another soon after to clean out any sludge. Maybe do seafoam to clean out the oil buildup and then do the oil change. Remember to change your PCV valve its only ~3$.

If you change the coils and still have the p0300 check to make sure your plugs don't have oil on them this can happen when the valve cover goes bad and cause a p0300 or misfire in another cylinder. Also make sure plugs are gapped to specifications search on here for that it can also cause misfires.
 
I bought auto meter vacuum , volts, oil pressure, and air/fuel gauges for $20...i have a pillar gauge pod so i wanted to moniter a few things that it doesnt. I ran sea foam in my car, changed my oil already twice, changed my spark plugs and gapped to .44, I haven't changed my PVC valve yet...still need to clean my egr. I replaced the coil packs today new wires arrive tomorrow so I'll see If I throw any codes or if it will sputter seems to be running 100 times better now
 
Disconnect the battery for about 15 mins and reconnect it. This will clear all your codes and reset your ECU so you can see if your parts make a difference
 
Both coil packs have been replaced and ecu has been reset see if It sputters anymore, only one code it thru p0421 again. I removed my cat about a month ago so that might be why so I'll try a non fouler next
 
I did that ac flicker fix and worked for awhile....i just cleaned the contacts with elec. Contact cleaner then used bat contact grease and so far has worked longer than the fix postes for me anyways.....just throwin it out there
 
Well I fixed my problem replaced the coil packs and no sputtering issues or codes thrown. Thought I'd show you a pic of my car..

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Hey guys i have another question with my lights flickering...especially when I turn on a/c or defrost and when I do any small things thats giving load to the battery. Just wondering if it's a common issue with the battery or altnator. The altnator is oboviously charging of my vehicle still starts everyday
 
Hey guys i have another question with my lights flickering...especially when I turn on a/c or defrost and when I do any small things thats giving load to the battery. Just wondering if it's a common issue with the battery or altnator. The altnator is oboviously charging of my vehicle still starts everyday

Check your grounds and check the connections on your Alternator. I checked one of my grounds, the one that connects on the passenger mount, and it was not connected possibly from the previous owner. I tracked it down and re-connected it yesterday and it made a difference actually, samll but it made a difference. I will for sure be doing a complete reground kit on my car to include a an additional power wire from the alternator to the battery. Basically almost the "Big Three" without replacing my Alternator with a HO Alternator as I already have a new better battery. HO Alternator is my last resort, been having power issues with dimming lights as well.

Both coil packs have been replaced and ecu has been reset see if It sputters anymore, only one code it thru p0421 again. I removed my cat about a month ago so that might be why so I'll try a non fouler next

A code P0421 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:

  • The catalytic converter is no longer functioning properly
  • An oxygen sensor is not reading (functioning) properly
  • A sparkplug is fouled up


So yes the Non-Fouler not being on would cause that. Glad you installed it and it went away and fixed your issues.
 
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Ya I was gonna remove my egr and clean it up it's in a crazy awkward place lol. I will go to napa and pick up new coil packs. And go from there, thanks for the replies.

Another question is with my air conditioning....it only works on 1 and flickers off and on in 4th and doesn't work in 2 or 3 speeds...I was thinking maybe a resistor but not 100% sure where it's located.

I also have a afr gauge and a electric oil pressure gauge whats a good feed to go off of in the p5's

I just fixed my flickering problem. Could of done better but ended up doing a quick fix. the switchs connector behind it the male and female ends get corroded. They will need to be cleaned. Better to replace the ends or do what i did. I will post pictures if needed
 

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