400whp Full Build Up Q&A

Optimal injector duty cycle is 85-95% if he gets less then he will have trouble tuning the idle and the car will "hopp-then-run". If he has more then
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I did not know this. Excellent, I will edit my post. Thank you

And maybe a mod can delete all the flame so the thead gets to the point on page 1 or 2
 
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Thanks for all the help guys. I think that this might be too much of a job for me. I think I'll be okay with 300whp and I will follow what MAM did on one of their customer cars on their site. Also, I think it might be useful to keep this thread around for other crazy, speed freaks to look into, it would be cool to see an 11 second MSP someday!
 
they're getting there, 12.4 in the wagon with no diff. If that were with a diff he might have made it or just broken something in the trans who knows. BTW take it slow you'll need to relearn to drive the car every stage it makes more power.
 
ghost said:
Ill try to make this as complete as possible. This is what you will need for 350-400hp and daily driver.

Bottom end.
forged pistons (go a little high maybe 9.1)
Billet Rods (oliver)
Upgraded rod bearings
Billet and balanced crank (MAM's is good)
ARP fasteners (for everything)

Tranny
Clutch
Flywheel (not nessesarily lighter but a stronger compound like chromoly)
Upgraded syncros
Ugraded LSD
Upgraded spider gears
Upgraded fluid that can withstand the high temp
Tranny oil cooler
Stronger axles and driveshafts
Stronger knucles

Brakes You need to stop the car ya know
A good setup (doesnt mean a BBK!)

ECU
Good standalone like a Microtec or AEM
3bar Map sensor (i would go with Motec)

Fuel
Pump ( popular brands like walboro will do)
Fuel rail with a fuel return
Upgraded FPR
Upgraded fuel lines
550+ high imp. injectors

Turbo
GT30rs or equivalent will do
Upgraded manifold
Upgraded pipes (plastic doesnt cut it)
Upgraded FMIC (not some cheap kit)
Upgraded BOV

Suspension
I would upgrade but that is your buisness

Tires
Some good tires that are streetable and kinda soft so you can try to put the hp on the street.


If I missed anything someone pleae add.
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Yeaaaah.... And 3" exhaust. You'd want suspension and brake upgrades too.

Honestly... If I wanted a fast fast Protege I probably wouldn't keep w/ the FS. I'd probably pick a more mod-friendly powerplant.
 
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benben84 said:
Alright, heres the deal, I am planning a full build for my MSP and had a few questions. I've searched the site long and hard but didn't find answers for everything. I plan on using a local very reputable shop(D and D Rods and Mods) for everything and before I drop the bomb to them I would like to know as much as possible first. I am building the car to be a dependable daily driver with around 230-250whp and also be able to crank the boost and push around 400whp when needed, like at the track. I would like to at least run low 11's in quarter mile. I like to drive my vehicles a little hard so it needs to withstand a little abuse. I know this is a huge project but I do not want to cut any corners, so that is why I want to get everyones opinions, and suggestions first. Below is a list of things I plan on getting to complement what I already have (check my sig for owned mods):


AEM EMS - (dont know price yet but shop is AEM certified)
ProtegeGarage Transmission Upgrade Kit - $899
GT2871R Turbo - $1,195
GReddy PRofec Type-S Electronic Boost Controller - $319
GReddy Full Auto Turbo Timer - $85
HKS Universal Circle Earth Grounding System - $136
PERRIN Performance Short Ram Intake - $196
MAZDASPEED Turbo Stud Replacement Kit - $46
ARP Head Studs - $119
Fidanza 7.5 lb Light Weight Aluminum Flywheel - $349
Spec Stage 3 Full face Clutch - $589
AEM Cold Air Intake - $279

Give me all your suggestions and opinions on what you think of the list or if I am missing anything. What rods/pistons should I go with? long rod or stock length? Also, I read something about crank walk and was wondering what that is? Is there a better turbo for my setup than I have listed? Will the transmission upgrade hold up to that amount of power? Will I need new axle shafts? Will my FMIC flow enough? I probably will come up with more questions as time goes on but I guess we'll start with these.
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I have not read the entire thread, but hopefully this isn't an echo from what someone else has said. You will have a very hard time pushing 400whp on a T2 series turbo(GT2871). The back pressure in the manifold will more than likely cause you to hit the wall(car make no more power as the boost raises) at high boost levels. This is called Revert.

To make 400whp you will need a T3 series turbo and all the supporting mods.
 
HorsepowerFreak said:
Yeah... fully built motor, head work, cams, LSD, etc..... 400hp is asking for a LOT out of one of these.


Why do you need two intakes though?
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You REALLY need headwork (porting, don't forget the intake) and cams to hit 400 whp on a MSP for the street, in my opinion. It will take less boost to reach you hp goal that way (more efficient).

Also, what is the fastest car you have driven in before? Do you have any clue how fast an 11 second car is?
 
Rac3rX said:
Hmmmmm I think 18 G's (The Dif in Price) could put together a serious Tuned car to your personalize tast (Forge everything) as aposed to The WRX everybody has.

Hell there is even a AWD conversion kit for the Protege (hah)

18 G's buys alot of parts!
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Where is this AWD kit that you speak of?
 
Impressive, but a damn headache. I wouldn't want that project on my hands....

400 hp is attainable, Benben.... Go for it bro (300 is plenty fun too).
 
65racecoupe said:
You REALLY need headwork (porting, don't forget the intake) and cams to hit 400 whp on a MSP for the street, in my opinion. It will take less boost to reach you hp goal that way (more efficient).

Also, what is the fastest car you have driven in before? Do you have any clue how fast an 11 second car is?
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Why did you quote me with this and ask me how fast I've been?
 
HorsepowerFreak said:
Why did you quote me with this and ask me how fast I've been?
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I meant that for the thread starter, not you. I didn't write it so well.

I was wondering if he has ever really been in a very fast car or if he was just pulling the 400 whp number out of the air.
 
if you actually want a 400HP mazda 4 banger that is reliable, inexpensive and can handle running 11s and whatever you can throw at it and still drive through traffic the next day, look no farther than the late 80s FE-DOHC (or FE3 some call it). A FE DOHC with a set of pistons and stock rods will blow away a built fs any day of the week and still be reliable
 
Dude. Take it from me. I was also in your position; until I was heart broken and found out that I might have purchased the wrong car. But I got over it. 300+ HP in our cars is more than enough to make you giggle. You will be able to beat the majority of cars that pull up next to you on a daily cruise through the town with 300+ HP.

Good luck on your build. I plan on doing the same...some day.
 
Step 1: Sell MSP.

Step 2:
<img src="http://www.loti.com/60s_muscle_cars/Buick-Muscle/1987_BUICK_REGAL_GNX.JPG">
 
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