We picked up a 2014 GT yesterday for my wife. We drove it on a 100 mile trip today. I had read about the shakes on this forum a few weeks ago, but did not notice anything on our test drives. My wife drove the first 50 miles to our destination, then I drove it back...and noticed vibrations in both the driver side mirror and hood. I mentioned it to my wife and she said, "so I'm not crazy - I noticed that, too". It's not horrible, but definitely noticeable. I'll give the dealer a call tomorrow.
2014 CX-5 Hood TSB?
- Thread starter Monozub
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Ok so I am in the market to buy a 2014 for my wife. I certainly don't want to deal with this issue. How rampant is this problem?
I drove 3 different CX-5s, one was a 2013. All of them had driver-side mirror vibration at highway speed. It was not really bad, just not as good as any other car I've driven before, making seeing fine details a little difficult. I think I'd like it fixed anyway, but not going to run to the dealer with this.
My hood vibrates as well, but it is pretty minor I am not sure it is worth mentioning. The vibration seems to be mostly from rough road not really from wind. I especially notice the corners, both left and right close to the windshield, which move slightly relative to the panels closest to them, which are not part of the hood. It does vibrate in the center as well. Looks like other body parts might be vibrating, only I can't see them.
My hood vibrates as well, but it is pretty minor I am not sure it is worth mentioning. The vibration seems to be mostly from rough road not really from wind. I especially notice the corners, both left and right close to the windshield, which move slightly relative to the panels closest to them, which are not part of the hood. It does vibrate in the center as well. Looks like other body parts might be vibrating, only I can't see them.
This whole issue is fascinating to me. Clearly there is something going on, it's been observed by multiple people and there are TSB's out. However, in every review and long term review I've read, i have not seen mention of these issues. I do remember one long term review where they mentioned the hood vibration but have never seen mention of the mirror shake.
Once again, I do believe people are seeing it. I just wonder if everyone is looking too hard? Is this an internet echo chamber that is making it a bigger deal than it is?
I'm itching to pull the trigger on a 2014 but would like this resolved and it seems like it's still not.
Once again, I do believe people are seeing it. I just wonder if everyone is looking too hard? Is this an internet echo chamber that is making it a bigger deal than it is?
I'm itching to pull the trigger on a 2014 but would like this resolved and it seems like it's still not.
TreyP
2018 Soul Red AWD Touring CX-5
I haven't read this thread except the title and your response, so bear that in mind when reading the following:
I picked up my 2014 CX-5 three days ago and had never heard of this issue at that time. On the drive home I first noticed the driver's side mirror vibrating some, but not enough to be overly concerned about. Later in the drive home, I leaned forward to admire the silver color on the hood because I can't see it in the normal driving position. I immediately noted the rear edge of the hood (by the wipers) vibrating noticeably. Again, I was not impressed with the quality on display, but not overly concerned either.
So to answer your post, I wasn't looking too hard or reacting to group-think. These issues are easily apparent, but not anything that would make me rethink my decision to get a CX-5. The goods far outweigh the bad.
With that being said, I'm now going to peruse this thread to see what TSBs are available.
That is where mine is the most noticeable and it seems like it shouldn't move there as that is right at the hinge. Although I guess if the structure of the center of the hood is compromised it could put more stress on the edges. Which is my main fear that it isn't just a cosmetic problem but could lead to other issues later. If a hinge breaks after another 14,000 miles, when I'm out of warranty, due to stress in a direction it wasn't designed to withstand it wouldn't be fun.
I popped part of the insulator panel off the hood and most of the adhesive spots I could see looked like this:
I've seen mentioned and even the TSB mentions adjusting the stops to hold the hood more securely but on mine the edges bounce up to where the hood lifts up so that the bottom of the hood metal is even with the top of the fender panel. I tried to catch some video of it but trying to see something move on a really shaky video isn't easy.
That is one reason I almost avoid reading threads on problems, because it will tend to make me look for that problem.
The hood stands out pretty good to me as when it really bounces it definitely draws my eye. The mirror shake is minor enough that if I hadn't read about it I probably wouldn't have thought much of it. I may not even ask the dealer about it as the fix seems fairly extreme. I'm not thrilled with the idea of having them remove the door panel and mirror and mirror glass as it seems like it is just asking for other problems.
Didn't see them referenced elsewhere in the thread but saynotopistons and wannabe put together a sticky thread with the TSBs that include the hood and mirror:
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...lletins)-for-CX-5-2013-Mazda3-amp-2014-Mazda6
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deepfriedsushi
Member
- :
- 95 Miata, 14 CX5 Touring FWD, 18 CX9 GT FWD
So I've taken a closer look at my 2014 CX5 FWD Touring and I've noticed that I also have this hood and driverside mirror vibration. I have a build date of Feb 2013.
To those on the fence about buying the car, this is NOT A SERIOUS PROBLEM. Don't let this turn you away. The vibrations don't make any noise and don't seem like any significant short term damage would result from it.
I've also read up on the TSB's, so I'll try to give my insight in relation to the TSB's.
My definition/interpretation of this hood shake is not really the whole hood itself shaking. It does not seem like it's loose. The vibration seems like the hood is just flexing under it's own weight. The flexing can be seen towards the center rear edge of the hood at the base of the windshield. The hood vibration does not happen all the time. Even at highway speeds, the hood does not really vibrate. I only notice the vibration when driving over rough roads at low or high speeds. When going over the rough road, the maximum amplitude of the vibration seems only be less than a 1/4 of an inch.
After reading the TSB, it basically acknowledges that the hood itself is flexing, which is what I'm observing with my hood. The hood is constructed with a support structure on the underside with the skin of the hood glued on top of it. It seems like there is not enough glue to attach the support structure to the skin. This allows the hood to flex under it's own weight when subjected to the up and down forces of going over rough roads. So the TSB basically instructs the tech to glue more surface area of the support structure to the skin of the hood, which provides more support and strength to minimize the flexing.
I took a look at my own hood after removing the pins holding the insulation and the insulation itself. Here is what I found.
You can see all the nodes/tabs which are the contact points where glue is applied to hold the support structure to the skin of the hood. The glue itself feels like a hard foam.
I've highlighted in green circles where the glue itself has broken/split.
Here are close ups of the broken glue locations. I did not cause any additional damage when inspecting the glue points. The way I tested each point was to push upwards on the skin to see if it would separate from the support structure. The unbroken points did not budge, where the broken points allowed the skin to flex.
Naturally resting.
Me putting a little bit of force to lift up the skin.
Naturally resting.
Me putting some force to lift up the skin.
You can see the crack in the glue/foam on the right side of the blob
Another visible breakage in the glue/foam.
The TSB puts glue along most of the support structure between the nodes/tabs, almost like a weather seal. I think this will significantly reinforce the structure of the hood and increase it's rigidity and decrease the amount of flexing the hood experiences.
Since the TSB is only for 2013's, I am going to contact my dealer and report these findings and show them the failed glue locations. Then hopefully they will be able to perform the TSB to my car under warranty so the issue can be resolved.
To those on the fence about buying the car, this is NOT A SERIOUS PROBLEM. Don't let this turn you away. The vibrations don't make any noise and don't seem like any significant short term damage would result from it.
I've also read up on the TSB's, so I'll try to give my insight in relation to the TSB's.
My definition/interpretation of this hood shake is not really the whole hood itself shaking. It does not seem like it's loose. The vibration seems like the hood is just flexing under it's own weight. The flexing can be seen towards the center rear edge of the hood at the base of the windshield. The hood vibration does not happen all the time. Even at highway speeds, the hood does not really vibrate. I only notice the vibration when driving over rough roads at low or high speeds. When going over the rough road, the maximum amplitude of the vibration seems only be less than a 1/4 of an inch.
After reading the TSB, it basically acknowledges that the hood itself is flexing, which is what I'm observing with my hood. The hood is constructed with a support structure on the underside with the skin of the hood glued on top of it. It seems like there is not enough glue to attach the support structure to the skin. This allows the hood to flex under it's own weight when subjected to the up and down forces of going over rough roads. So the TSB basically instructs the tech to glue more surface area of the support structure to the skin of the hood, which provides more support and strength to minimize the flexing.
I took a look at my own hood after removing the pins holding the insulation and the insulation itself. Here is what I found.
You can see all the nodes/tabs which are the contact points where glue is applied to hold the support structure to the skin of the hood. The glue itself feels like a hard foam.
I've highlighted in green circles where the glue itself has broken/split.
Here are close ups of the broken glue locations. I did not cause any additional damage when inspecting the glue points. The way I tested each point was to push upwards on the skin to see if it would separate from the support structure. The unbroken points did not budge, where the broken points allowed the skin to flex.
Naturally resting.
Me putting a little bit of force to lift up the skin.
Naturally resting.
Me putting some force to lift up the skin.
You can see the crack in the glue/foam on the right side of the blob
Another visible breakage in the glue/foam.
The TSB puts glue along most of the support structure between the nodes/tabs, almost like a weather seal. I think this will significantly reinforce the structure of the hood and increase it's rigidity and decrease the amount of flexing the hood experiences.
Since the TSB is only for 2013's, I am going to contact my dealer and report these findings and show them the failed glue locations. Then hopefully they will be able to perform the TSB to my car under warranty so the issue can be resolved.
Thank you for your detailed description and pictures of the issue. I agree that is not something to get too alarmed but at least aware of it. I am glad that you took the time to take off the hood insulation to take those pictures. My wife's car is built on 12/12, so I am assuming that it may some loose adhesive as well. In my opinion, I rather wait a bit to see if Mazda issue an update to expand the TSB. I do have access of some other type of epoxy/glue at work. I just have to check the specs to make sure that it can be use underhood. If it so, I don't mind doing it my self since it something minor that I can fix it my self. But, if dealer says that it can get approved from Mazda to fix it, why not....
I would leave it & let the dealer fix it. If you touch it, they can claim that you caused the frame to separate bc you did not use a 'Mazda approved adhesive'.
I'm taking my car in tomorrow for an alignment under warranty. Maybe I'll have them check this out.
Prob need to look under the insulation first.
deepfriedsushi - thanks for the details. It is really helpful. The funny thing is that I've been looking at the hood of my '98 camry that I've been driving for a long time and can see some instances where the hood vibrates today at speed. Trust me there are plenty of rattles and shakes with that car these days!
My point is that this feels like one of those issues that may be an annoyance if you focus on it but in reality isn't a big deal. It also feels like something that Mazda might change their fix over time.
My point is that this feels like one of those issues that may be an annoyance if you focus on it but in reality isn't a big deal. It also feels like something that Mazda might change their fix over time.
Great info! I definitely plan to let the dealer know, in the next appointment. I'd like to take a peek myself to see how bad it is. Overall, the mirror vibration is more annoying then the hood in my vehicle. Perhaps most glue points hold.
Sorry if this is obvious, but how do you take off the pins which hold the insulation panel in place?
Sorry if this is obvious, but how do you take off the pins which hold the insulation panel in place?
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I used the tools from Harbor Freight that someone else mentioned on here before:
http://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece-auto-trim-and-molding-tool-set-67021.html
the forked ones slide around the pins to pry them out. I managed not to break any, which was a first for me.
http://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece-auto-trim-and-molding-tool-set-67021.html
the forked ones slide around the pins to pry them out. I managed not to break any, which was a first for me.
You are right. I did not see it that way. In any case, when I get the chance I will check under the insulation.
Really excellent photos, and detail.
Its disappointing that Mazda hasn't sorted the issue for the 2013 build.
Two things, can the rear bulkhead gasket be raised slightly to give more support.
And just maybe the adhesive is intentionally "weak" to increase pedestrian protection.
Its disappointing that Mazda hasn't sorted the issue for the 2013 build.
Two things, can the rear bulkhead gasket be raised slightly to give more support.
And just maybe the adhesive is intentionally "weak" to increase pedestrian protection.
deepfriedsushi
Member
- :
- 95 Miata, 14 CX5 Touring FWD, 18 CX9 GT FWD
Glad I could provide some insight for you guys. I figured it was just a matter of pulling off the insulation and taking a peek.
To take off the insulation pad, like Handa says, you can use the forked crowbar on the black "pins" that hold the insulation to the bottom of the hood and pry them out. You don't necessarily have to use the plastic crowbar, as I dug my fingers between the hood and insulation as close to the pins as possible and started pushing downwards on the pin/insulation till it popped out.
Xtrailman: I think the rubber gasket on the bulkhead/front of the cowl can technically provide more support, but I'm not sure how you could add more material on top of the existing rubber gasket with out decreasing it's sealing capability. Maybe placing some extra weather stripping on the bottom of the hood where it mates up with that rubber bulkhead/cowl gasket?
I think the adhesive is intentionally "weak" to actually allow some flexing to happen. I'm sure this is a balance that the mazda engineers were trying to figure out. How to make it strong, yet light, but also cheap to manufacture. I guess they went more towards the light and cheap to manufacture and gave up some strength. The adhesive itself seems like a very light material too as it was more foam like vs a solid epoxy type of glue.
On another note, I also tried adjusting those black rubber "feet" and made all the arrows point forward. However, pointing them this way seemed to already match how they're supposed to be oriented as the stops to keep them from turning are doing their job at that orientation. I haven't had the opportunity to find some bumpy section of the hwy to try it out as my commute doesn't include the hwy.
To take off the insulation pad, like Handa says, you can use the forked crowbar on the black "pins" that hold the insulation to the bottom of the hood and pry them out. You don't necessarily have to use the plastic crowbar, as I dug my fingers between the hood and insulation as close to the pins as possible and started pushing downwards on the pin/insulation till it popped out.
Xtrailman: I think the rubber gasket on the bulkhead/front of the cowl can technically provide more support, but I'm not sure how you could add more material on top of the existing rubber gasket with out decreasing it's sealing capability. Maybe placing some extra weather stripping on the bottom of the hood where it mates up with that rubber bulkhead/cowl gasket?
I think the adhesive is intentionally "weak" to actually allow some flexing to happen. I'm sure this is a balance that the mazda engineers were trying to figure out. How to make it strong, yet light, but also cheap to manufacture. I guess they went more towards the light and cheap to manufacture and gave up some strength. The adhesive itself seems like a very light material too as it was more foam like vs a solid epoxy type of glue.
On another note, I also tried adjusting those black rubber "feet" and made all the arrows point forward. However, pointing them this way seemed to already match how they're supposed to be oriented as the stops to keep them from turning are doing their job at that orientation. I haven't had the opportunity to find some bumpy section of the hwy to try it out as my commute doesn't include the hwy.
if you want to do it yourself, you can order the same material they called out in TSB from bodyshops, or ebay or other internet means. I thinking about doing it so I don't have to bring it in and wait 6 hours for it to dry at the dealer, 3M-34274 (4274 is the one in the TSB) is the smaller bottle, I have the 2 part mixer dispenser at work so I'm going to do it myself.
Same here, I won't accept a vibrating mirror, or hood.
I find it strange that Mazda are still sending out cars with this issue.
Hopefully by the time my car is delivered, late July most of the issues will have disappeared, but i.ve a feeling I've ordered 6 months too early.
I find it strange that Mazda are still sending out cars with this issue.
Hopefully by the time my car is delivered, late July most of the issues will have disappeared, but i.ve a feeling I've ordered 6 months too early.
