So I've been dealing with some issues with the car here lately.. can't seem to figure out what's causing it either. On a cold start-up I have to tap the gas in order for it to crank, it shows a vacuum of -15ish at idle, after it warms up and I come to a stop somewhere rpm's drop to nearly nothing but then picks right back up to normal, and sometimes when it gets into boost there's some hessitation. It don't hesitate every time I get into boost but it does it pretty regularly. I've checked for vacuum leaks and couldn't find any and I have no check engine lights. Anybody have an idea on what this could be? Possibly egr or crank sensor?
What have you done to your MSP today?
- Thread starter baconbitz
- Start date
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- 2003 Mazdaspeed Protege 1660, 2004 Winning Blue RX8, 2005 Mazda6
Scan for pending codes and see if there are any if you haven't already.
I put the turbo on this morning. Took me waaaay too long. About 4 hours I think. This turbo, good shape, spun freely, didn't see anything wrong with it. Was in better shape than mine when I checked it last, haven't gotten it to boost above 13 psi. The other day no more than a couple of hours before mine went I hit 16psi. I got a bare used turbo, so I had to swap everything over from my old one. And i installed new gaskets except for the head to manifold gasket which was in good shape and doesn't currently have any leaks. I cleared the oil feed line just to make sure there was nothing restricting oil flow and did the same with the return. Nothing changed except the compressor itself. I checked the wastegate the second I had it out of the box because I've had issues with my shaft bushing backing out of the housing and causing it to jam open, but this one would seat nicely. Temperatures aren't excessively high today or anything.
I put the turbo on this morning. Took me waaaay too long. About 4 hours I think. This turbo, good shape, spun freely, didn't see anything wrong with it. Was in better shape than mine when I checked it last, haven't gotten it to boost above 13 psi. The other day no more than a couple of hours before mine went I hit 16psi. I got a bare used turbo, so I had to swap everything over from my old one. And i installed new gaskets except for the head to manifold gasket which was in good shape and doesn't currently have any leaks. I cleared the oil feed line just to make sure there was nothing restricting oil flow and did the same with the return. Nothing changed except the compressor itself. I checked the wastegate the second I had it out of the box because I've had issues with my shaft bushing backing out of the housing and causing it to jam open, but this one would seat nicely. Temperatures aren't excessively high today or anything.
Yeah I had a maf sensor pop up and a fuel regulator sensor. But I've had these two codes pop up multiple times before I've had this issue. Think they pop up because of maxing out the 5v range on the maf. I got a ssafc just haven't installed it yet cause I want to fix this issue first.
jerseymods
Member
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- 2003.5 Titanium Grey MSP
do you have the stock exhaust still?
hornsfan10609
Certified Mazda Tech
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- 2003.5 Mazdaspeed Protege x2
Replace the sensor for the FPR, it's the one on the IM with the brown connector. Sounds like you have a massive vac leak, obvious from the boost gauge reading and your symptoms. Check for cracks in the exhaust mani/missing hardware, check for leaks around the IM, charge piping, injector seals, etc.
Stock S pipe and catback, catless SLS midpipe. It spikes anywhere from 10-14 psi but it holds about 8-9 through the revs.
YEP. You were right, dang. It was too loose.
I socked it down TIGHT.
No more clunk from that link. Still slight clunks elsewhere. Tolerable. So for now MSP Armageddon has been postponed.
I'll keep it.
Thanks for the tip.
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- 1989 RX-7 GXL Blaze Red
Glad I could help. Sometimes it's something dumb like that other times it's not. Guess you got lucky 
Almost finished painting my wheels. Had a slight hiccup with the spoke sections. I turned the wheels over to touch up the backside lip and the paint wasn't 100% cured, and in the direct 70+ degree sunlight must have softened it up and bit so the paint took on the pattern of the sheet they were sitting on. Now I have to sand down the damaged sections and paint them again. Few more days and I should be able to get the new tires mounted and get them on the car.
Curb damage repair after paint. Hardly noticeable
Curb damage repair after paint. Hardly noticeable
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Little concerned. I put a new exedy clutch abd fidanza flywheel in last november. Now the clutch seems to rattle when engaged in neutral. Might do it in gear but can't hear it.
I'm always screwing with the adjuster rod too. It was nice for a few weeks but now its all fked up again and I'm screwing with it more.
Anything cheap I can look at replacing? Car coming off the road next month for the rest of the year but has to make it til I fix my mx3.
I'm always screwing with the adjuster rod too. It was nice for a few weeks but now its all fked up again and I'm screwing with it more.
Anything cheap I can look at replacing? Car coming off the road next month for the rest of the year but has to make it til I fix my mx3.
jerseymods
Member
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- 2003.5 Titanium Grey MSP
Where can I get a catless SLS midpipe nowadays?
jerseymods
Member
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- 2003.5 Titanium Grey MSP
Any suggestions? Does this mount look worn and should this exhaust be replaced? Car seems like its mechanically sound, but just taking the precautions.
how the heck can the underpan look THAT good and the exhaust look THTA bad lol. im pretty sure thats fine, but i wouldnt try to take it apart without replacment nuts ect on hand. maybe just leave it until you get the desire to upgrade to an aftermarket exhaust.
the mount looks fantastic, but that isnt the one that commonly fails. if you can rock the motor, chances are the rear mount and front mount are broken. New exhaust? get new mounts at the same time. solid side mounts and front and maybe just inserts for the rear on a brand new oem.. the 70 and higher dm rear mount SUCKS.. turns my windshield into a great big speaker lol.
the mount looks fantastic, but that isnt the one that commonly fails. if you can rock the motor, chances are the rear mount and front mount are broken. New exhaust? get new mounts at the same time. solid side mounts and front and maybe just inserts for the rear on a brand new oem.. the 70 and higher dm rear mount SUCKS.. turns my windshield into a great big speaker lol.
jerseymods
Member
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- 2003.5 Titanium Grey MSP
Yeah man the car has only 32.5k miles but it sat outside with only a car cover on during bad weather. I am planning on replacing exhaust because I hate all that rust, although I like the OEM exhaust tip with mazdaspeed logo on tip! lol But I want to upgrade to an exhaust with similar sound as stock.
And yes I check my rear mount and from what I could see it did look like it was more worn. The mount under the battery looks pretty good still too. Ill be posting some more pics to get your guys take on the condition and what should be replaced, before things wear out.
Corksport 2.5 apparently bolts to stock axle back so if its still good, could reuse it. You could try to find a corksport downpipe as well. Or the pope but that won't make to 2.5 without adapter ect.
Compromise will have to be made for what's available. Though I too like the stock exhaust note. Running mine stock with deleted cats.
Ps. My s and j pipes are less rusted if you wanted one and just went with the cs exhaust.
Compromise will have to be made for what's available. Though I too like the stock exhaust note. Running mine stock with deleted cats.
Ps. My s and j pipes are less rusted if you wanted one and just went with the cs exhaust.
jerseymods
Member
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- 2003.5 Titanium Grey MSP
You have any pics? lol
jerseymods
Member
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- 2003.5 Titanium Grey MSP
This is my front mount. Going to need to be replaced soon! Front and rear are recommended to go with OEM and Poly inserts correct?
Yeaaaa that's phuced lol. You could do just the front one for now easily though. Rear one is a realy b****.
Solid sides and front if you can afford. For the rear it depends what you want. Solid.mount will drive and shift wicked but be noisy and rattly. I only have side inserts but I might go solid soon and a softer rear mount.
I've never taking it off the car or removed the heat shield even. But won't be looking to part with it til I get all my pope stuff and fix my mx3. Sadly this yellow bastard will be on blocks for the rest of 2014.
Solid sides and front if you can afford. For the rear it depends what you want. Solid.mount will drive and shift wicked but be noisy and rattly. I only have side inserts but I might go solid soon and a softer rear mount.
I've never taking it off the car or removed the heat shield even. But won't be looking to part with it til I get all my pope stuff and fix my mx3. Sadly this yellow bastard will be on blocks for the rest of 2014.
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ps, for some reason i thought you were looking at the front of the car.. my bad.. you could just take that axle back to an exhaust shop and have a few flange/pipe end welded on. if you get corksport 2.5 it goes from the Jpipe back i believe. lots of people run the pipe with msp muffler to keep the noise down and keep a performance boost from the bigger exhaust.
i just cut the cats out and replaced with pipe but ill be going cs fairly shortly. cant beat the quality for the price.
i just cut the cats out and replaced with pipe but ill be going cs fairly shortly. cant beat the quality for the price.
jerseymods
Member
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- 2003.5 Titanium Grey MSP
I would like to go for little noisy and rattling as possible, I know thats the nature of the msp, so should I just go with new OEM front and then inserts? My msp is a DD and I dont use on track btw.
And got it I might just do that and keep the MSP axel back since I would like to see stock look.
