FS-DE Oil System

Wow lots of reading over 26 pages. I may need a new motor soon and just want it to be reliable and not have to worry. No boost, no big NA power. Will the oil pan still need to be tapped for return?

Would this setup be any different for an NA motor since there is no turbo oil lines needed?

Man this thread really makes me want to get an oil pressure gauge.

Yeah, thanks to all the forum members for all the good info included in those pages!!

The set-up is basically the same for a NA system except that you only need one return line to the pan which would be for the external PRV (with a turbo there is an oil return line form the turbo too).

Hope this helps??
 
Yeah, thanks to all the forum members for all the good info included in those pages!!

The set-up is basically the same for a NA system except that you only need one return line to the pan which would be for the external PRV (with a turbo there is an oil return line form the turbo too).

Hope this helps??

Yes it definitely does! So I would be ok with a tapped oil pan or girdle from an MSP?
 
I'm about to install this soon and my mechanic asked me to ask....how's the turbo gonna like 70-80psi? I forget if the stock turbo has a reducer...anyway, any info on this would be great. Thanks!
 
Yes it definitely does! So I would be ok with a tapped oil pan or girdle from an MSP?

Should be fine. Only difficulty might be that usually the oil pan or girdle are tapped on the font side of the motor for the turbo dran since that is where the turbo is placed on the motor. Therefore, if you use this drain outlet for the external PRV, it will require a bit longer line than if the drain were on the back side of the oil pan or girdle. Really just a small issue...
 
I'm about to install this soon and my mechanic asked me to ask....how's the turbo gonna like 70-80psi? I forget if the stock turbo has a reducer...anyway, any info on this would be great. Thanks!

The stock turbo is reduced by the small diameter of the oil supply line. This was engineered to provide the correct pressure and volume. Remember, as the motor increases rpm and the oil pressure builds to the 70-80psi, the motor bearings (rods and crank) and the bearings in the turbo require the increased pressure to provide the needed oil wedge.

The basic rule of thumb with oil pressure in performance motors is 10psi/1000 rpm so 70 psi at 7000 rpm is what it should have! You shouldn't really set it up to have 70 psi at idle.

If it matters, we have run ~30 psi at idle (1800 rpm) and 70-80 psi at redline (7200 rpm) the last three seasons all with the same turbo! We also use the factory oil supply and drain lines.
 
Not to start anything but, to just chine in. Oil pressure at any RPM depends on alot of factures, including what oil you are using, tolerances, motor type, temp, ect...
 
Not to start anything but, to just chine in. Oil pressure at any RPM depends on alot of factures, including what oil you are using, tolerances, motor type, temp, ect...


You are absolutely correct sir! The oil pressures given above are merely recommendations and relative ranges which will be affected by the individuals specific circumstances such as but not inclusive of engine bearing clearance size, synthetic or petroleum based oils, specific oil weight, oil supply line diameter, engine temperature, relative time of use of said oil, etc., etc., etc.

Hope this "takes care" of the lawyers looking in??:confused:
 
If I'm gonna try to blast 300WHP out of my P5 and still just street drive mostly what should I do in regards to what oil I use?

Sorry, you haven't seen my pump yet Tom. I have been busy, but it is all clean now and I will send it next week.
 
If it matters, we have run ~30 psi at idle (1800 rpm) and 70-80 psi at redline (7200 rpm) the last three seasons all with the same turbo! We also use the factory oil supply and drain lines.

so is that achieved by setting bearing clearances to allow a max of 70-80 psi? then you just set prv to whatever at idle and the rest is up to the motor's mechanical design? or can this be done with what oil type and visc. that you use?
 
so is that achieved by setting bearing clearances to allow a max of 70-80 psi? then you just set prv to whatever at idle and the rest is up to the motor's mechanical design? or can this be done with what oil type and visc. that you use?


You can't really set your bearing clearances to acheive or allow a certain pressure or max pressure. Bearing clearances do affect the oil pressure but are set to create a certain oil wedge depending on the type of use the motor will see. Oil type (mineral based or synthetic) will vary the pressures seen due to the naturally low viscosity of synthetic oils relative to mineral based oils.

Each particular motor and situation will be somewhat different. The big advantage here is that we are all dealing with somewhat similar motors, at least in design, very similar oil pumps, and an adjustable regulator.

The best way to set up a system like this is to get a good oil pressure gauge and make sure the sensor is reading from a reliable port. At idle adjust the regulator to bring the oil pressure into a range you feel comfortable with for that rpm. Once the motor (and oil) has warmed to operating temperature slowly bring the motor up the rpm range and evaulate the oil pressure at each 1000 rpm increment. If it is aproximately 10 psi/1000 rpm that is a good range. If not, increase the setting on the regulator. Keep doing this slowly up the rpm range until a good pattern is seen. It takes a bit of time and adjustment.

The above description is just an overview of how we acheived the previously mentioned oil pressure ranges. It is not meant to be a difinitive method nor is it implied as absolutely correct.
 
If I'm gonna try to blast 300WHP out of my P5 and still just street drive mostly what should I do in regards to what oil I use?

Sorry, you haven't seen my pump yet Tom. I have been busy, but it is all clean now and I will send it next week.


It really depends upon your setup and turbo. Some manufacturers recommend mineral based oils for their turbos while others recommend synthetic. With our race motors we use synthetic for their ability to withstand high temperatures without breakdown. Even for our daily drivers we use synthetic for the relatively long service life over mineral based. I would determine what your likely use will be for that season and then purchase an oil type and weight to get you in the range you are looking for.
 
which oil would you recommend?? i'll be switching to Royal purple soon.


Well of course I am biased to the oil we have been using in our race motors for over 10 years...Torco (www.torcousa.com). We have always had good luck with the full synthetic and the price is not that bad. I would bet also that if you gave them a call and asked them for a recommendation for your particular situation (giving them as many details such as type of use, average ambient temperature of the local area, type of bearings, etc.) they would likely give you a good basis to start from.

If you do call them - mention us, Doc B Racing, and the Mazda Protege(drinks)
 
The stock turbo is reduced by the small diameter of the oil supply line. This was engineered to provide the correct pressure and volume. Remember, as the motor increases rpm and the oil pressure builds to the 70-80psi, the motor bearings (rods and crank) and the bearings in the turbo require the increased pressure to provide the needed oil wedge.

Good to know, thanks!
 
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