Any photographers in here?
- Thread starter ChopstickHero
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I chose f11 to get the sharpest image I could. I remember reading that lenses are their sharpest a few stops above wide open.
f/11 starts to generate refraction. Try f/8 for sharper images. Also, it will let you speed up your shutter just a little, which will help your keeper rate... as long as you're still getting enough background blur.
Continuous focus, which on Canon is AI Servo. I shoot in burst mode but I never just hold the shutter button down, I'm rapidly clicking because in my head I can control where the focus is going to be on the car better that way.
This is one of the best articles I've seen on shooting motorsports: http://blog.photoshelter.com/2010/01/how-to-photograph-motorsports/ and the guy who wrote it posts pictures on the POTN forum too.
I can't remember if it was that article or not but I read a tip that was something along the lines of positioning yourself at a point on the inside of a turn such that the car stays relatively the same distance from you. This makes it easier to get nice crispy shots while panning because the focus doesn't need to change as much. It also helps if you are shooting with gear that is pretty slow to focus.
Yep!
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So what if the camera loses sharpness after f11? For pixel peeping purposes or what is the correct term? Only then the sharpness loss will be that much visible.
For me its better to have a good/great shot than to be 100% technically correct. Since I've realized that, ISO1600+ isn't that "scary" anymore. Of course depends what you shot. I don't like even ISO800 when shooting stills with cars/people, but life/concert photo, that's another story.
And I agree with the "need" to purchase ND filters, so you don't have to resort to high f-stops, but until I buy one, f22 wont kill me
P.S. Sorry if the tone of the message may sound a little harsh, but it's not.
@Willd - I'll read that article as soon as I can, sounds interesting and photos are very good on first glance.
I photograph drift like that and can get very nice, constant, results. Are you using central auto-focus point or some sort of AI within the camera (3D Matrix metering for Nikon, I'm sure that Canon has something similar, but don't know the name for it).
For me its better to have a good/great shot than to be 100% technically correct. Since I've realized that, ISO1600+ isn't that "scary" anymore. Of course depends what you shot. I don't like even ISO800 when shooting stills with cars/people, but life/concert photo, that's another story.
And I agree with the "need" to purchase ND filters, so you don't have to resort to high f-stops, but until I buy one, f22 wont kill me
P.S. Sorry if the tone of the message may sound a little harsh, but it's not.
@Willd - I'll read that article as soon as I can, sounds interesting and photos are very good on first glance.
I photograph drift like that and can get very nice, constant, results. Are you using central auto-focus point or some sort of AI within the camera (3D Matrix metering for Nikon, I'm sure that Canon has something similar, but don't know the name for it).
I do basically the same thing as Will; take a bunch of photos on a continuous focus mode and hope for the best. Considering I use a $100 70-300mm lens without any stabilization, I think everything turns out okay. It is all in the panning motion!
RolexGT001 by James Iorfida, on Flickr
MidOhio013 by James Iorfida, on Flickr
RolexGT001 by James Iorfida, on Flickr
MidOhio013 by James Iorfida, on Flickr
So what if the camera loses sharpness after f11? For pixel peeping purposes or what is the correct term? Only then the sharpness loss will be that much visible.
For me its better to have a good/great shot than to be 100% technically correct. Since I've realized that, ISO1600+ isn't that "scary" anymore. Of course depends what you shot. I don't like even ISO800 when shooting stills with cars/people, but life/concert photo, that's another story.
And I agree with the "need" to purchase ND filters, so you don't have to resort to high f-stops, but until I buy one, f22 wont kill me
P.S. Sorry if the tone of the message may sound a little harsh, but it's not.
@Willd - I'll read that article as soon as I can, sounds interesting and photos are very good on first glance.
I photograph drift like that and can get very nice, constant, results. Are you using central auto-focus point or some sort of AI within the camera (3D Matrix metering for Nikon, I'm sure that Canon has something similar, but don't know the name for it).
at f/22 I can see the difference even in a web sized image... it starts getting this "dreamy" weird look to it... it works with some subjects, but very much not with others. In fact, I have a 30 second beach sunrise exposure shot at f/22 hanging in my dining room... I would never shoot something with sharp lines (like a car) at f/22 though. Maybe it's just me.
You can see, as can I, or probably anybody on here who know what to look at - and thats the technical part of the pic. For that reason I'm saying f22 wont kill you to get a good panning shot, since already half of the picture is blurred. There is no reason to shoot stills with f22.
With all that said, probably my next purchase is going to be a ND and a CPL for 80-200mm.
On a side note... I'm having serious backfocus issues with the Tamron. I never know when its going to act up on me. The other day it nailed focus spot on two pics (leaf and moving cat), 2min later it missed by a mile, on a parked car... First 15-20days it worked without a flaw and then started missing on 50mm, now it can miss from 17 to 50mm. Sent it to see what can be done about warranty.
In other news I bought a Nikkor AF-S 35mm f1.8G, bookeh-licous little lens
FlyinHawaiian
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Didn't make it three... haha. I was actually out flying myself around. Got checked out in an airplane I'm allowed to take to the Bahamas! Pics to come from that trip this weekend...
FunkyBuddha
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iLL Abilities/Renegades
FunkyBuddha
Tuned by Slick Nick
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- 2003 Spicy Orange MSP
Shot KRS-One on Thursday night.
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