Adjustable Mazda 2 Struts/Shocks

[zoomerang2]

I must be doing it wrong or something. (lol2) I have thin arms (6' 1" and 160 lb) and there is no way I could adjust mine by sticking my arm between the top of the tire and the fender with the Eibach springs. I have to lay behind the car and reach between the backside of the wheel and the inner fender.

I agree, I am average size, 5'11'' 185 and there is no way I can reach the adjustment.... I really tried at the auto-X yesterday since after few runs I realized I had set the adjustment full-soft on all 4 corners as a test a few weeks ago and never set them back! I was able to adjust the fronts of course but not the backs since I have not even brought a jack to the event.

 

[inspekt]

I must be doing it wrong or something. (lol2) I have thin arms (6' 1" and 160 lb) and there is no way I could adjust mine by sticking my arm between the top of the tire and the fender with the Eibach springs. I have to lay behind the car and reach between the backside of the wheel and the inner fender.

I haven't tried that... thanks for the tip. Last time I changed the setting I had red marks on my arm for about a day or two from wedging my arm in there. A little too stubborn for my own good sometimes...

 

[CorkSport]

Drive up on a few blocks of wood or a curb to get the rear tire to lift if space is too tight to get to the adjuster if you dont have enough space or a jack.

-Derrick

 

[inspekt]

My irritating sloped driveway is actually perfect for that idea. I can't believe that didn't occur to me (hand)

 

[CorkSport]

I dont remember when I learned about that trick. I think it was when we broke a car at a rallycross and we needed to jack up a car.

-Derrick

 

[Andres3165]

Derrick, what is the highest spring rate that the rear shocks can handle ?

Thanks

Andres

Are you ignoring me ? or did I miss that information somewhere?

Thanks

Andres

 

[pa11cub]

Just installed the adjustable struts/shocks and corksport springs. I found that I can lift the car just enough to get my arm to the adjustment. It is even easier if you get on your back and wedge your leg under the rear bumber and lift that way.

 

[CorkSport]

Are you ignoring me ? or did I miss that information somewhere?

Thanks

Andres

Sorry I forgot to answer back, our engineer said 9k/500lbs springs would be about the highest you could run on them on the top end of the adjustment range.

-Derrick

 

[eyeballs]

Thats not bad, similar to OTS koni yellows. I'd really love to get a springset with rates about 300F and 250R. 400/325 when I no longer have daycare duty.

 

[jasyatz]

Thats not bad, similar to OTS koni yellows. I'd really love to get a springset with rates about 300F and 250R. 400/325 when I no longer have daycare duty.

Same boat here, I have the CS struts and have tried every manufacture available for a spring with a 400-500 rate ( even though I was told on the phone 600 would be ok) No one has anything in a 5" lower conventional seat with a 2 5/8" flush top. A Ground Control kit sleeve will press fit onto the strut, but in no way shape or form can a 6" spring 2.5" diameter fit under the car and give anything under a factory ride height. The sleeve won't slide all the way to the factory perch. There's a perfect taper it sits on, but is 1" higher than the factory perch. Since no one makes a 5" spring in a 500lb rate, you'd be stuck with a 4" spring and have to run a soft tender with a hide away cup. Problem is nobody makes a 5" hideaway tender to keep tension on the spring and compress to give you the 1.75" drop this car needs. Add up all the parts and you are better off with a pre- engineered coilover setup.

I've looked into a NASCAR style 2.5 to 5" coilover adapter to run up top and a conventional 5" spring but nobody makes a conventional spring with a free length of under 8" anyway so doesn't look like its possible, unless someone has any other ideas?

Stiil waiting to hear back from CS on their thoughts.

Jeff

Btw ran the MINI today and it has zero problem running on the custom bumpstops every corner. So thinking the CS springs with a custom stop may work well..Depending on the linear rate CS decided on for the spring. I realize this is proprietary info, but it's essential to properly tune the bumps top for serious autocross use.

Either that or I buy the springs and send them out and dyno them...rather have the info first, saves some time since I'd like to run the CS struts on the car for the May 26th event.

 

[jasyatz]

Also looked into a 2 5/8" spring, can't find any 500 rate in 6" length.. Nor can I find a 2 5/8" sleeve kit.

 

[jasyatz]

I'm surprised to see those springs are only 25% stiffer than stock...I thought you guys were going for a more track oriented setup. H&R seem to be the stiffest available, at only 30% over stock. I was expecting to see something on the order of 75-100% stiffer.

Me too, but 100% is really close to a really good "compromise autocross/ aggressive street" rate. You could then eliminate the CS progressive rear and install a linear 2.5" with an adjuster sleeve. I've already got the rear height adjuster worked out for a linear rear 2.5", but under full droop you'd still need zip ties and a centering cone to reseat when jacking. Easy solution is a droop limiter strap for the rear end, but can't find anything in STF rules that allows it..So it must not be legal..A shorter rear shock would solve this also which is legal.

Jeff

 

[extremez31]

Jeff, i found AFCO springs for circle track 4" 600LB front 2 5/8 inner diameter Part # 28600-1 $59.95 http://www.sardesonracing.com/page 014.htm

For the rear use eibach 2.25 6" tall. I have the 6" springs with nothing under them 450# and its fine for commuting. In fact im thinking of going up to 550# in the rear. I jack my car regularly and have the springs zip tied to the frame when i lower the car the springs seat themselves without ever an issue.

 

[eyeballs]

So my girls fell asleep in the car and I figured I'd throw in the rear shocks while trying not to wake them up. For others that want to try this, slowness is the key when lifting the car.

Anyways, I ran into an issue. The CS shaft uses a 12mm nut and my shocks ('12) have a 10mm nut. The CS shaft end will not fit through the OEM top without some grinding. Anyone else run into this? Depending on how cheap I can get another set of OEM rear tops (with the larger center hole) I may go that route rather than grind my stock units.

I was putting the last bolt back in when my 3 year old woke up. My 1 yr old woke up a little before that. I never figured I'd make it that far, considering they were sleeping in the car I was working on.

 

[inspekt]

Damn! That's some serious finesse on the install. I could never pull that one off with my daughter in the car... You'll love those adjustables - SO much better. Are you staying on your Racing Beats?

 

[eyeballs]

Damn! That's some serious finesse on the install. I could never pull that one off with my daughter in the car... You'll love those adjustables - SO much better. Are you staying on your Racing Beats?

I got a good wrist workout (as bad as that sounds) since I minimized ratcheting to stay quiet and did most of the bolts by hand once broken loose. Lower shock bolt is WAY longer than it needs to be. Its amazing how easy those shocks are to swap out though, don't even need to remove the rear wheel.

I'm still on the RB springs. If a significantly stiffer and slightly lower spring option comes available I'll go that route, otherwise I may go the bilstein route later on when I run out of other things I want to do to the car.

 

[eyeballs]

Called up CS, and it sounds like it should fit OK but with some pursuation required to slide the top over the CS shock shaft. Gotta love Corksport customer service...where else can the person that answers the phone give install tips from 1st hand experience?!

 

[eyeballs]

Got the rears in. Firm pressure on the shock top will expose just enough thread to get the nut started. The rear feels much better now. Can't wait until I can get the fronts done.

 

[inspekt]

Seriously. Those guys are awesome, to say the least.

Called up CS, and it sounds like it should fit OK but with some pursuation required to slide the top over the CS shock shaft. Gotta love Corksport customer service...where else can the person that answers the phone give install tips from 1st hand experience?!

 

[eyeballs]

So I wasn't sure at first, but I am certain that the rear is sitting lower now with these shocks. It's definately a pleasant surprise, but I cannot figure out why the ride height should have changed when I did not touch the springs. The CS shock is a little shorter than OEM, but all that should change is droop travel. Anyone have any ideas?