Adjustable Mazda 2 Struts/Shocks

So I wasn't sure at first, but I am certain that the rear is sitting lower now with these shocks. It's definately a pleasant surprise, but I cannot figure out why the ride height should have changed when I did not touch the springs. The CS shock is a little shorter than OEM, but all that should change is droop travel. Anyone have any ideas?

That is weird, they shouldn't affect the height.

Derrick
 
Installed the corksport adjustable shocks/struts and their new lowering springs yesterday. The rear is lower than expected. It looks great, but it's a little lower than the front, probably half to full inch lower. Hoping that the fronts settle a bit more.

IhwAiUQ.jpg

I'm getting mine tomorrow, but I won't get my struts/shocks till august. Got any more pictures? Side, rear....?

When I will have mine on I will take pictures from every angles, we could compare results :)
 
So I had some time to get the front's done yesterday and go for a drive into the mountains. My current suspension setup is CS adjustables, racing beat springs, CS front and rear bars, alum. collars on the front bar. I started out setting the dampers at 5F/7R and noticed bumps are soaked up very nicely, and the car now feels significantly more solid over imperfections compared to the OEM units. I now have them set at 10F/11R and can tell these things are really starting to wake up. I plan on dialing them to 11/13 and will probably leave it there for daily driving. With the Racing beat springs, I can easily reach in and adjust the rears with the car sitting flat. There's an autocross at Road Atlanta next month I plan on attending to give them a legitimate test. Now all I need are springs to use with these on the order of 100-150% over stock rates to really liven things up, ideally with a 1" drop from stock height.
 
So I had some time to get the front's done yesterday and go for a drive into the mountains. My current suspension setup is CS adjustables, racing beat springs, CS front and rear bars, alum. collars on the front bar. I started out setting the dampers at 5F/7R and noticed bumps are soaked up very nicely, and the car now feels significantly more solid over imperfections compared to the OEM units. I now have them set at 10F/11R and can tell these things are really starting to wake up. I plan on dialing them to 11/13 and will probably leave it there for daily driving. With the Racing beat springs, I can easily reach in and adjust the rears with the car sitting flat. There's an autocross at Road Atlanta next month I plan on attending to give them a legitimate test. Now all I need are springs to use with these on the order of 100-150% over stock rates to really liven things up, ideally with a 1" drop from stock height.

I'm going for that set u for my wifes MZ2 since it will be our roadtrip 2. My MZ2 will be great when I get the front sway and dampers. I'm still amazed by the handling of the 2, it's a well balanced car.
 
I'm still amazed by the handling of the 2, it's a well balanced car.

It sure is, my wife said she was getting nauseous after one of the tighter sections (and I was only at about 5-6/10ths). Biggest problem with the 2 is when I get behind someone slow in the mountain 2-lane roads there is no hope of getting around them. Every once in awhile I get lucky and someone will actually use the slow person pull-off.
 
Yeah CorkSport, stop slacking and get working on the kit!
lol you guys ain't slacking, you guys came out with a new oil cap, The Ultimate Mazda Performance Guide ;)
Ok jokes a side, the MZ2 need more powar and the best Mazda tuner out there that can make the impossible happen is Corksport. Soooo, when it's ready I'll say " Shut up and Take my money" lol
Ho yeah we need a LSD diff too :)
 
The diffs are out there if you dont mind overnight parts from Japan.

-Derrick
 
^^Nice one Derrick

I always say more tire instead of an LSD, especially with how low our power levels are.
 
Lol, I couldn't help myself....

I think the 4.33 ring an pinion would be worth more myself.

-Derrick
 
Can these struts/shocks be revalved ? Does each order come with it's own click adjustment chat and or dyno sheet ? and last question who makes these ??
 
Can these struts/shocks be revalved ? Does each order come with it's own click adjustment chat and or dyno sheet ? and last question who makes these ??

#1 No.
#2 We do not provide the dyno sheets for each shock. Each click adjusts rebound and dampening.
#3 Not going to say. I can tell you they are not made in China, Taiwan, or India.

-Derrick
 
#1 No.
#2 We do not provide the dyno sheets for each shock. Each click adjusts rebound and dampening.
#3 Not going to say. I can tell you they are not made in China, Taiwan, or India.

-Derrick

Thank you for the quick reply :) I am sure these would be fine but I want something a little more hardcore for racing.
 
Newbie digging in to the past, hoping for a little guidance and clarification:

...100% is really close to a really good "compromise autocross/ aggressive street" rate. You could then eliminate the CS progressive rear and install a linear 2.5" with an adjuster sleeve. I've already got the rear height adjuster worked out for a linear rear 2.5", but under full droop you'd still need zip ties and a centering cone to reseat when jacking. Easy solution is a droop limiter strap for the rear end, but can't find anything in STF rules that allows it..So it must not be legal..A shorter rear shock would solve this also which is legal.

Jeff, i found AFCO springs for circle track 4" 600LB front 2 5/8 inner diameter Part # 28600-1 $59.95 http://www.sardesonracing.com/page 014.htm

For the rear use eibach 2.25 6" tall. I have the 6" springs with nothing under them 450# and its fine for commuting. In fact im thinking of going up to 550# in the rear. I jack my car regularly and have the springs zip tied to the frame when i lower the car the springs seat themselves without ever an issue.

For those of us a little less adept, what bits would be needed to attempt a similar solution - but at 300lb/in front, 250 lb/in rear? Which GC perches, what diameter, what height, and would tenders/helpers be necessary?
 
Back