Megasquirt 2 EMS Guide for FS-DE 98+

Yup... ill give it to you this weekend... I have the NA VE tables down, but the turbo ones are a work in progress... still have a long way to tune before they are dialled in right.... just a word of warning... :)
 
i thought MSII had an auto-analyze for the VE tables if you log enough MAP vs. wideband - or something like that...
 
K as mentioned in another thread. im trying to install this unit but lost as to where to begin and such.

If someone has 10 minutes to spare and point me in the right direction on where to begin

thankyou in advance
 
i thought MSII had an auto-analyze for the VE tables if you log enough MAP vs. wideband - or something like that...

the Paid version of TunerStudio has VE analyze live. it uses the AFR table and WBO2 to change the VE table in real time as you drive around. pretty cool.
 
K as mentioned in another thread. im trying to install this unit but lost as to where to begin and such.

If someone has 10 minutes to spare and point me in the right direction on where to begin

thankyou in advance


you have to be more specific. How many times have you read the guide?
 
ill take it - just a screen capture is fine. the VE numbers for the FSDE just arent out there aside from people running MS, and theyll come in handy for a sticky im working on.

PM'ed you my email.

Sorry bro... been really busy... will get to it asap...
 
K as mentioned in another thread. im trying to install this unit but lost as to where to begin and such.

If someone has 10 minutes to spare and point me in the right direction on where to begin

thankyou in advance

(RTM) ... lol... j/k
Please read the PDF in the first post I think you might have missed it... I have given detailed instructions on the install in there.... if you still have specific questions after that... we'll be glad to help you out... (thumb)
 
Soo just read the PDF on the first post. And man do i feel stupid.. Thanks for making me check it out.

Couple questions but of course i forgot most but remember one.

When ground the 4 black grounds, you said not to run one flat wire but ground them with individual wires at but you can use the same ground point. Now do i have to use the engine block as a ground point or can i use a grounding point beside the ECU?
 
Definitely run to a single ground point, Preferably solder all the 4 wires to one big lug and bolt it to the block somewhere.
 
megasquirt

After reading this entire post.. I have a question... Are you using the stock alt. ?? I haven't seen anything about the mega squirt using or not using it. Also does your mileage work on your cluster? I can't see why it wouldn't.. But i also haven't seen anything about that either...

Worst case i am just going to change my alt out.. I want it to charge differently due to my system requirements. However if i can maintain my stock alt that would be great. Any ideas??
 
After reading this entire post.. I have a question... Are you using the stock alt. ?? I haven't seen anything about the mega squirt using or not using it. Also does your mileage work on your cluster? I can't see why it wouldn't.. But i also haven't seen anything about that either...

Worst case i am just going to change my alt out.. I want it to charge differently due to my system requirements. However if i can maintain my stock alt that would be great. Any ideas??

no because your alt is externally regulated by the stock ecu. you can buy a high output alternator off ebay that is an internally regulated alt, or you can use one off the 93-97 fsde motors which will bolt right up to your motor with no problem.

I haven't heard anything about mileage no working but you will have to wire in a 6.8k resitor in the return (black) crank positioning sensor wire to get your tacho working.
 
After reading this entire post.. I have a question... Are you using the stock alt. ?? I haven't seen anything about the mega squirt using or not using it. Also does your mileage work on your cluster? I can't see why it wouldn't.. But i also haven't seen anything about that either...

Worst case i am just going to change my alt out.. I want it to charge differently due to my system requirements. However if i can maintain my stock alt that would be great. Any ideas??

no because your alt is externally regulated by the stock ecu. you can buy a high output alternator off ebay that is an internally regulated alt, or you can use one off the 93-97 fsde motors which will bolt right up to your motor with no problem.

I haven't heard anything about mileage no working but you will have to wire in a 6.8k resitor in the return (black) crank positioning sensor wire to get your tacho working.
 
hmmm..... I DON'T want to piggyback it at all IF I can get away with it.. I wanted to use it as a complete stand alone... and remove 90 percent of the BS wiring in the car and all the vac sensors and all that stuff that i simply wont need... I wonder if other standalones can controll these features..?
 
hmmm..... I DON'T want to piggyback it at all IF I can get away with it.. I wanted to use it as a complete stand alone... and remove 90 percent of the BS wiring in the car and all the vac sensors and all that stuff that i simply wont need... I wonder if other standalones can controll these features..?

Some of them can such as the haltech, but not tested yet. Just get yourself a 626 alternator, or even better yet, bring your alternator to a rebuild shop and ask them to install a built in regulator like the 626. Dimensionally both alternators are the same.
 
Some of them can such as the haltech, but not tested yet. Just get yourself a 626 alternator, or even better yet, bring your alternator to a rebuild shop and ask them to install a built in regulator like the 626. Dimensionally both alternators are the same.

thats a good idea... I need to ahve it cleaned up and waht not anyways and nothing better then the current time... IF i do taht... how will that effect the stock ecu if i have to go back to it for say emmission reassons?
 
thats a good idea... I need to ahve it cleaned up and waht not anyways and nothing better then the current time... IF i do taht... how will that effect the stock ecu if i have to go back to it for say emmission reassons?

You would have to cut the wire from the stock ecu, and then feed the alternator from the ignition switch. You would have to use two diodes, because our ignition switch has two wires we need to tap on to. The one that is hot from accessory to ignition and the one that is hot from ignitio to start.
 
Ok.. I decided to go piggy back in a way for now.. I am going to keep the stock ecu installed for creature comforts as well as retaining the alt and a-c use... When i read this and many others.. I didnt see a way to wire up the ecu so i don't get a check engine light for... Knock or mafia or anything else.. I think i am going to use a resistor on the mafia signal so the msp ecu reads a signal. That should in theory trigger the ecu to charge the alt. Any ideas??
 
wire it up the same way the guide says to. the injector wires and coil wires will be cut from the stock ECU, so those ends will need to be terminated. everything else is a splice.

leave the MAF bolted on and plugged in
I followed the guide and had no check engine light
 
Im trying to eliminate the mafia though... Im going to try using a resistor between the signals... Or a pyrometer. .. Should allow me to have a "voltage" there to activate the alt and the ecu should see a maf there even if it isn't.

I should be getting my setup this week. So when i am finished building my motor i can wire it up. I really really am hoping it starts first try.. After priming. Is done and all.
 
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