Megasquirt 2 EMS Guide for FS-DE 98+

racerx43269 said:
Ok so... I have to redo my ignition maybe... I duno yet.. But I Will build the circuit tonight.

I do need a diagram for iac. Control.. Maybe if I cant find one ill leave it to the stock ecu..my engine is dune being built so it is going in this week.. And the testing begins...

I did my ignition tion a little different... I bought the second Bosch driver thing and installed it on q16 per the directions. So hopefully it works... If not.. Ill be removing it and installing it on the led thingy..
Click to expand...

Q16 is the normal ignition coil driver spot. being that our coils have internal ignitors, you don't need the high power coil driver anyway, LED 14 and 16 control the coils. leave it installed for possible future use, it does no harm installed. but do not make any jumper connections for it.

for IAC, the 3.57 board already has the PWM circuit, thats one of the bonuses to the 3.57 board because it was a popular mod to the v3 board. so you just need to hook up the IAC valve properly then get the settings right
 
Can someone please post some pics of the top side of the board of their completed v3.0? Wanting to make sure I have it all set up correctly

Thanks
 
I'll post it up for ya, a bit late but i'm switching to AEM so my MSII V3 will be up for sale shortly
 
Please pm what you are wanting for it. I was thinking about upgrading to a ms2 daughter board. What Mods are on the board now.
 
Is this running on your car currently? Are those two things attached to the top coil drivers? Please pm me shipped price, im weighing the difference of just upgrading mine with the ms2 daughter board or buying this one that is ready to go
 
One is coil driver, the other is the driver for Relay control, the other is dhe driver for Idle Control.

Unit is not installed , read your pm for explanation.
 
I am using TunerStudio Lite v1.004 and have MS2Extra Serial321 loaded. The D14 LED is flashing with ignition but the D16 LED is completely off. I have my spark output set to wasted spark and spark a set to D14 in Ignition Options.

I currently don't have the LEDs hooked up to the IGN and SPR4 or their pullup resistors since I originally followed the instructions for a single coil direct drive setup before I had a complete understanding of the MSP's ignition. Even Dkarthik's instructions have you hook up the IGBT circuit which has been mentioned already is completely unnecessary for our cars and was the major source of confusion for me. However, this should have nothing to do with the whether or not the LEDs flash.

Did anyone else have a similar issue with the D16 LED?
 
What the s***? Now it's working. I guess I unplugged it from the PC, maybe that change required a power cycle but I thought for sure I've had it off since I switched it to wasted spark. Oh well, good times.


I am probably going to sell the car in the next couple months, but this is just something I always wanted to learn since my MX6 days. I am afraid to put it in the car though. I am sure the unopened patch harness is worth a lot less when I start cutting it up, and if I have to replace the engine, it's going to put a serious dent in my new car fund.
 
I don't know if any Protege guys with an MS setup are still alive, but my main concern before I start tearing up my patch harness and actually trying to start my car after spending another day reading miataturbo.net forum posts and msextra documentation is the IAT.

With a MAF, IAT isn't really important. Cooler air cools down the hot wire faster than warm air, which is why it is a mass airflow sensor and not a volume sensor. I think the IAT in the MSP is just used for timing since engines typically retard timing with hotter intake air temps to prevent knocking.

The MegaSquirt, at least the MSII I have, does not have a MAF input. It has MAT and MAP inputs. However, we only have an IAT that is very far away from our manifold and prior to that hairdryer that is going to add a lot of heat before reaching the cylinders.

I can account for this temperature difference in the tune simply by targeting an AFR at a given load and temp. However, I am afraid this won't be quick enough and won't be consistent as the IC heatsoaks or cools depending on environmental factors and velocity.

Is anyone running a MAT/MAP based tune with the IAT sensor in the stock location successfully?

My feeling is I will need to get a hard cold pipe and weld a bung for an open-element IAT sensor close to the throttle body to have a consistent tune. While neither are terribly expensive, it just keeps adding up and at some point I need to put a stop to it.
 
So I found it odd that no one had made up a wiring guide that explains what pin on the MSII goes to what pin from the stock wiring harness.
DKarthik's writeup is good and mentions most of the pins, but is missing some information and doesn't tabulate it in a single sheet.

I made this in the same kind of format as the one I made for the FIC.

https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B1eecaR7erA6ZjlmOWUzZDktYmYxMC00M2MwLTg1NGEtNDgwYjZkNjRkZWJi

I doubt there will be many people who are using it, but if I am successful getting the MSP running properly with the MS while keeping A/C and passing emissions, maybe a few more people will jump on board.

I'll try to do a good writeup and maybe even just put this on it's own website with better organization because honestly swimming through all the MS info out there has been a real nightmare. A couple of the Miata guys really seem to know what they are doing, but a forum really isn't the best way to organize information.

Ok, time for bed. I plan on trying to actually start my car with this thing tomorrow.
 
I gave up trying to share the stock sensors, it was putting too much resistance on them and threw my ECT way off. fully warmed up i was only seeing 150 deg F when it was actually closer to 200F. so i have separate IAT and ECT sensors for my MS. i even drilled and tapped the water block on the head for the ECT, careful drilling, a bunch of JB weld to reinforce the thin walls and a quick turn of the tap and the GM ECT sensor threads in right near the stock ECT, allowing the stock ecu to go into closed loop and complete the OBDII tests

i'm still vague on the damn timing map tho. i might be close to stock, i might be way off but it drives fine on the street.

next up is to install a knocksenseMS kit. and i think i'm going to go ahead and wire up the IAC to the MS, my idle is rough under 900, probably from the cams and 1,000cc injectors. i have timing advanced to around 17 deg at idle try to compensate for the stock ecu attempting to pull idle down to 650-750rpm,
 
Yeah my plan is to run with fuel only until I have some kind of knock sensor on the MS. I am not sure if it is possible to share the stock knock sensor. Haven't gotten that far. I had an IAT welded into a custom cold pipe right next to the TB, but haven't gotten around to wiring it up yet. Might get to that tomorrow actually if I can get enough yard work done in the morning.

Not sure if you ever came across this, but I did after I had the same problem with the low coolant and air temps with the MS plugged in. Since you already put in a separate ECT, it doesn't matter, but might have saved you some trouble.

http://www.megamanual.com/v22manual/sharesen.htm
 
jdwk said:
Yeah my plan is to run with fuel only until I have some kind of knock sensor on the MS. I am not sure if it is possible to share the stock knock sensor. Haven't gotten that far. I had an IAT welded into a custom cold pipe right next to the TB, but haven't gotten around to wiring it up yet. Might get to that tomorrow actually if I can get enough yard work done in the morning.

Not sure if you ever came across this, but I did after I had the same problem with the low coolant and air temps with the MS plugged in. Since you already put in a separate ECT, it doesn't matter, but might have saved you some trouble.

http://www.megamanual.com/v22manual/sharesen.htm
Click to expand...


i saw that as well, but i believe i missed the part about removing the MS bias resistors. I think I still had them installed and that's probably what caused the problem. because both the MS and the stock ECU were reading low ECT temps. i had my scantool plugged in and the ignition on, it was reading around 150F. I cut the MS coolant wire and saw the temp jump to 200F so i said screw it i'm just going to run a separate ECT sensor.
 
Yeah so I have one resistor in for the CLT and one out for the IAT. I can't remember which was which now off the top of my head. I actually was thinking of having another IAT welded into my hot pipe, and using one of the extra PGIOs on the MSII, then I could display the ambient from the PCM using OBDII, the pre intercooler temp and the temp at the throttle body. It would give me an idea of how efficient my side mount is at various temps.
 
ive been looking at ms for my miata and i was wondering why no one does it on the msp/3rd gen proteges. then i found this thread.

so my only question is how would one get the speedometer to work? being that my car is a msp, i have abs and thats how the speed is determined......so any thoughts? anyone done this and wires the abs/speed sensors in?
 
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