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Well crappy dampers can be rough on rough roads also because they don't have anothe dampning to control the suspension and the whole car just skips around. This doesn't happen with the Bils. You feel the bumps, but there is no skipping around as the car rides on stiff springs with little...

All you have to do is loosen the bolts (you'll need a 14mm open ended wrench and a metric allen key - don't recall the size). Loosen the endlink bolts while the car is on ramps or on a flatbed lift and retighten. If you tighten everything down while the suspension is unloaded, you're going to...

Hmmm... interesting. I've never seen them sell that at the stores. I've only seen Seafoam liquid in a can and the Deep Creep, which seems to be more of an oil/lubricant, although they say you can use it as an intake cleaner.

There's really no way around it and unfortunately car manufacturers aren't doing much about it (other than maybe changing future designs). Most of it is on the responsibility of the owner and it comes out of your pocket to get it cleaned out, only to have it happen again over time. It doesn't...

Actually, it's a Federal crime to remove emissions equipment from any vehicle in the US unless it's for repairs.

This will be right in time for me to buy a 2012 SVT Focus that'll have some sort of Ecoboost 4 cylinder in it or whatever they'll call it. No diesel for me, thank you.

I have yet to tell a difference in the way my car runs on "different" gasolines from different companies. I've used Sunoco, Lukoil, Hess, BP, you name it, but 99% of the time, I fill up at the AAFES gas station on base (military). It's usually the cheapest around by a few cents, but the main...

The best bang for the buck would be just adding aftermarket rear sway bar. The front is arguably more trouble installing than it's worth. Swaybars can however mask a problems with the dampers though. Kinda like adding aftermarket lowered springs to crappy OE shocks, so the key is to replace...

I'm running stock springs, but the ride is definitely firm. On crappy roads, it does get a little rough, but it's controlled. Over dips and humps it kinda slams you back down into the seat a bit. I would say this car is about as firm as my '04 S2000 was now. No more floatiness and turn-in is...

I've got the Bilstein SP's on stock springs. I've had them since April. You can't go wrong with either Bilsteins or Koni's (MS3 specific). The Bilsteins were really designed for the heavier Volvo S40, so they've got stiffer valving than the Mazda3 Koni's. Now the new MS3 specific Koni's have...

It's not the injectors that's the issue. It's carbon buildup on the tops of the intake valves. Just Google "FSI carbon buildup" or "direct injection carbon buildup" and look at all the pictures out there of VW's, Audi's and Porsche's with this issue.

I'm also a cynist when it comes to thinking this stuff will actually cut through the carbon and crud that has been known to build up on the backsides of our intake valves due to the design flaws of Direct Injection. This problem is common throughout the car industry in DI engines, ranging from...

Got rid of my Forge BPV a while ago and haven't looked back. If I knew better, I would have spent my $160 elsewhere. Stock BPV for boost under 20psi for FTW. People arbitrarily replace stuff with aftermarket just to replace stuff thinking it's better. I have still not found proof that our...

Either the new Koni Sports or Bilstein HD or SP's on stock springs with a new rear sway bar. Done. I'm partial to Bilsteins because I think they're a better damper than Koni (cost a bit more too - and I'm a firm believe of the concept of getting what you pay for). Not that Koni's are bad, I...

Seafoam and Chemtool.

If you adjust your Wastegate Duty Cycle tables in ATR, you can tune out the spikes.

Yes, your fuel pressure really sucks. It should be about 425 at IDLE and 1,600+ at WOT. My PTP pump holds 1,700-2,000psi at WOT. You're dipping down into the 700's at WOT. Not good. Your AFR's are all over the place, but I think that's because the log you did has you shifting 3 times. When...

KR during cruise is not from REAL knock. It's the ECU adjusting timing. If you get it mashing on the gas at tip in and any time after that, it's real and should be tuned out by adding fuel/decreasing timing in those areas with the AP. A colder set of plugs 'may' help, but I wouldn't count on...

ROFL... no comment.

Just get a cheap mechanical Autometer boost guage for $30.