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I have been working on mazda's for 4 years during the prime time of the protege's, owned 3 of em, and have over 8 years of automotive technician experiance in various dealer, I now work at GM tech center in warren, as a technical advisor for new vehicle launches... so yes you can trust me, most...

unplugged maf or one of the intake hoses has a hole in it?

rear clunk is ether swaybar bushings, links or rarely worn out struts/mounts, most likely the swaybar bushings and links though. i don't mind replacing em every 15k so i never bothered the "clunk fix" front is most likely the swaybar links, mounts are probably shot but links more likely source...

unplug your ect sensor and iat sensors, bam the car thinks its -40 outside (default value in ecm) and see if your car starts.... or unplug front o2 sensor, bam the car is also in open loop and will also run like complete garbage, btw cars stay in open loop for no longer then a min when cold...

sounds like a low voltage at the battery to be honest, try hooking up some jumper wires

making your ecm think its cold outside will only make it run worse if not it even runs, trust me i do this for a living.....

if you make your car think that ECT is -40 the fans will never come on and it will over heat IFit actually starts

ducati's are my dream bikes...

you can make your ecu think its -40 outside, but all that is going to do is make your car not run at all

yeah, i removed the whole bottle and pump and used the whole that the neck went thru, fit perfect. I'm going to use a polished reservoir for the washer fluid with a stand alone pump later on.

it was very simple to by pass most of it, i didn't have to cut any of my car besides trimming the bumper cover on the inside, and its not hard to get washers to work again, I will probably work on that next week, I expect to spend less then 30 bucks including fancy reservoir.

why would you want too?

thats what i had to do when i ordered my kit, had to get 2 90's and 3 45's cause the kit i got didn't include any at all. it all depends on how you want to run your piping for the hot side, just a warning if you don't trim the actual metal bumper (i didn't) the bumper cover will be VERY tight...

it seems little low on vacuum at idle, i think your afc is broken, my car is at -22 at idle

I'm intersted in it as well, with or without egr (prefer without)

thanks, thats what I ended up doing car runs, will drive today again!

Pretty much finished installing the intercooler kit, car runs, no leaks etc, tomorow will trim my bumper cover to fit. I didn't cut a single piece of metal to make it fit so far, lost my windshield washers for the time being, planning to use remote reservoir and separate pump later. and yes I am...

I'm finishing with my CX racing FMIC and got a question about the blow off valve, it has two vacuum nipples, one closer to base one towards the top, what do they go to? no instructions in the kit ><

that should fix it most of your issues....thats why you should diagnose first throw parts at it second....

I don't remember if the cx-9 has a simple learn procedure or is it something more advanced that they need their scan tool for, been a while since i worked at the mazda dealer.