trick my ecu to thinking its always cold?

if you make your car think that ECT is -40 the fans will never come on and it will over heat IFit actually starts
 
what if i could wire up the fan to a switch and wire up a temp guage since the one on the dash wouldnt work
 
You need to research some about heat soak, the only way to have the car run cooler is to upgrade the FMIC and radiator. Unless you want methanol injection or nitrous there isn't much you can do to lower the air temp. Kicking the fans on earlier won't make the air cooler just the coolant.
 
Last edited:
i got it...a machine that makes us think it is cold outside in florida when in fact it is 100 degrees....
hmm...

i will be a millionaire..

on a serious note...you could def do it, get a resistor and tap it in between the maf an the ECU, really easy mod.
too bad it would only actually work on days when the air is ACTUALLY cold...because even if the car thinks is colder, you'll run PIG RICH cuz the air won't be denser.


wikipedia said:
Temperature and pressure

The density of dry air can be calculated using the ideal gas law, expressed as a function of temperature and pressure:

where ρ is the air density, p is absolute pressure, Rspecific is the specific gas constant for dry air, and T is absolute temperature.
The specific gas constant for dry air is 287.058 J/(kgK) in SI units, and 53.35 (ftlbf)/(lbmR) in United States customary and Imperial units.
Therefore:
At IUPAC standard temperature and pressure (0 C and 100 kPa), dry air has a density of 1.2754 kg/m3.
At 20 C and 101.325 kPa, dry air has a density of 1.2041 kg/m3.
At 70 F and 14.696 psi, dry air has a density of 0.074887 lbm/ft3.
The following table illustrates the air density - temperature relationship at 1 atm or 101.325 kPa:
Effect of temperature
Temperature Speed of sound Density of air Acoustic impedance
in C c in ms−1 ρ in kgm−3 Z in Nsm−3
+35 351.96 1.1455 403.2
+30 349.08 1.1644 406.5
+25 346.18 1.1839 409.4
+20 343.26 1.2041 413.3
+15 340.31 1.2250 416.9
+10 337.33 1.2466 420.5
+5 334.33 1.2690 424.3
0 331.30 1.2920 428.0
-5 328.24 1.3163 432.1
-10 325.16 1.3413 436.1
-15 322.04 1.3673 440.3
-20 318.89 1.3943 444.6
-25 315.72 1.4224 449.1
[edit]
 
unplug your ect sensor and iat sensors, bam the car thinks its -40 outside (default value in ecm) and see if your car starts.... or unplug front o2 sensor, bam the car is also in open loop and will also run like complete garbage, btw cars stay in open loop for no longer then a min when cold, usually within 30 sec its in closed loop.
 
making your ecm think its cold outside will only make it run worse if not it even runs, TRUST me i do this for a living.....

as soon as some one says to "trust" them, thats the last i do!

unplug your ect sensor and iat sensors, bam the car thinks its -40 outside (default value in ecm) and see if your car starts.... or unplug front o2 sensor, bam the car is also in open loop and will also run like complete garbage, btw cars stay in open loop for no longer then a min when cold, usually within 30 sec its in closed loop.

u sure about that? it'll start just fine with all 3 unplugged. the only 2 sensors that will cause the motor to turn over but not start are the cam and crank posish sensors.
 
Ok let me chime in don't door I have the low temp thermostat 160 mpg suck my air is fine but cold morning on the hwy about 40 still bog after heating up. The reason you feel faster in the morning is that your exhaust pipes are cold so the air doesn't expand as much once the car heats up the exhaust is thicker and you choke or bog out. Get shatter exhaust and you will have that nice pull feeling all the time..
 
I have been working on mazda's for 4 years during the prime time of the protege's, owned 3 of em, and have over 8 years of automotive technician experiance in various dealer, I now work at GM tech center in warren, as a technical advisor for new vehicle launches... so yes you can trust me, most of the time when and ect goes out on a car it cause various drivability concerns, such as hard start, misfire when cold/hot, overheating, reason is vehicle has certain timing/fuel parameters that are specific to certain temperature of engine, incoming air and the vehicle load, if ether of those readings are scewed then we have poor drivability concerns.
I was marely trying to make a point that trying to fool ecm into thinking the car is cold is going to cause nothing but problems.

you forgot mas air flow sensors, if that is unplugged the vehicle will run very bad if run at all, mazda's don't have speed density readings like gm's.
as soon as some one says to "trust" them, thats the last i do!



u sure about that? it'll start just fine with all 3 unplugged. the only 2 sensors that will cause the motor to turn over but not start are the cam and crank posish sensors.

I don't see you providing any "good" info
This thread makes me lol. So much bad info.
 
not everyone feels the need to know all the stupid car lingo donkey...

no ogre you dont understand why the car feels faster when its cold. Its not just the ECU its also the denser air... more air + more fuel = bigger boom = more power. Every car turbo or NA feels like it has more power when its cold out. However dumping more fuel when its not cold (denser air) will just make the car run like ass, bog down and foul out plugs left and right.
 
Last edited:
to the OP

don't pay attention to anything these people are saying.
they don't want you to know the true potential of the FS-DET engine.
trust your gut feeling.

unplug every sensor except the CAM and Camshaft and IAT.
it is a proven fact that it makes the car go faster.

companies just plug them in to charge you more money for parts!

these devices are nothing but a jumper wire inside a very fancy box that costs 100-500 dollars.

also, the added weight reduction value might losen some HP's to beat all those civics you want to beat.

another good thing is removing the battery after the car has started, not only there isn't this big box that needs to be "charged"lol...but also about 30 lbs of dead weight.

and that is a FACT
 
Want to have a COLD running engine? Just pull out the thermostat and that way the engine will always run cold. Although "NOT" recommended.
 
Ractive:5914478 said:
Want to have a COLD running engine? Just pull out the thermostat and that way the engine will always run cold. Although "NOT" recommended.

It will still get upto operating temps if its warm out.... if its cold not so much
 
Back