Yes a 2023 CX-5 Oil Change Thread

[i12drivemyMP5]

yeah mine was on but not started. the key was having service interval showing in gauge pod. that allowed me to access the vehicle status menu in information on infotainment screen. we have very different gauge pods. nothing in our "A" config pod is visble when car is off. all digital and no static markings with lots of config options for view.

 

[Koko_Bandit]

Just a side question regarding diy oil changes. How many use an oil extractor when changing their oil? I have used one for years but not on a Mazda. Just curious if it is difficult to get the tube to the bottom. The dipstick feels like it is a straight shot.

 

[stickerbush]

Just a side question regarding diy oil changes. How many use an oil extractor when changing their oil? I have used one for years but not on a Mazda. Just curious if it is difficult to get the tube to the bottom. The dipstick feels like it is a straight shot.

I have used a small pump I got from Blackstone to extract oil for analysis. I found it a bit challenging to get the tube through the dipstick to the bottom. It bound up a couple of times and I had to pull back a bit and then continue inserting it. It worked though I couldn't help but have some concern around the plastic tube getting stuck in the dipstick tube.

 

[N7turbo]

Just a side question regarding diy oil changes. How many use an oil extractor when changing their oil? I have used one for years but not on a Mazda. Just curious if it is difficult to get the tube to the bottom. The dipstick feels like it is a straight shot.

I considered it, but instead just did it the old fashioned way—but then I installed a Fumoto valve before I was done to make the next one easier. I figured, even with an extractor, you'll still have to go down there and pull the panel off to change the oil filter.

The extractor makes sense for the Mercedes techs who also have the filter up top. The main downside to it? If the engine is older and hasn't been maintained as well, it won't get all the solids at the bottom of the pan, if there are any.

Also, 1st post!

 

[N7turbo]

So where did you get Tokyo Roki PE01-14-302B oil filter installed at factory for the 2.5L NA? You can only get OEM Thai made Denso 1WPE-14-302 and Mexican made “Value Product” PE01-14-302A-MV at Mazda dealers in the US. And yes, Mazda dealers will use MV filter for your oil change unless you specifically ask for a Thai filter.


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Also my experience. Ask at the parts counter for a filter and you'll get the value model. Ask specifically for this one for the turbo: 1WPY 14 302

The car will come with the Tokyo Roki filter from the factory but they don't sell it here. No big deal.

 

[PTguy]

Way back there was a question about which brand of oil to use, and the answer is simple. It does not matter. Any top brand is equally excellent. Top conventional oil is very good. Synthetic oil is better at very cold temperatures as it thickens less in the cold, at very high temperatures because it thins less in the heat, and it oxidizes more slowly for longer oil life. I use syn in all my turbocharged cars (2 so far). Keep in mind that turbocharged diesels in trucks, ships, rail engines, etc., use conventional oil and have great results--the last ship's diesel engine I worked on had four 4' diameter turbochargers with 30 wt conventional oil in their own sumps, an no oil lubricated problems. Do use the quality and viscosity engine oil recommended in the owner's manual. Low viscosity oils such as 5W-20 and 0W-20 create less internal friction inside the engine for a sliver less drag and a bit better gas mileage, as well as being more suitable in frigid temperatures. The current top oil categories are ILSAC GF-6A and API Service Category SP. Those are upgraded every few years, and always buy the most current. They will be fully compatible with the older categories listed in older owner's manuals.

For filters, it's different. There is no industry standard for oil filters like there is for, say, GF-6A/SP 5W-30 engine oil. Each engine maker's oil filter is a secret. Aftermarket oil filter companies may reverse engineer the engine maker's filter and make one that matches or just pick one out of their catalog that seems to be close enough. During the warranty period I suggest sticking with the engine maker's filters. After the warranty any top brand of filter is likely just fine.

I do not know if there is any functional difference in the Mazda filters from different makers in different countries. I do know that during the engine warranty period any suitable Mazda filter fully satisfies the warranty requirements. I know of one Thai filter maker, HiFloFiltro, that makes very high quality filters, and I have good experiences with their motorcycle line. They also make the K&N motorcycle oil filters.

 

[N7turbo]

Way back there was a question about which brand of oil to use, and the answer is simple. It does not matter. Any top brand is equally excellent. Top conventional oil is very good. Synthetic oil is better at very cold temperatures as it thickens less in the cold, at very high temperatures because it thins less in the heat, and it oxidizes more slowly for longer oil life. I use syn in all my turbocharged cars (2 so far). Keep in mind that turbocharged diesels in trucks, ships, rail engines, etc., use conventional oil and have great results--the last ship's diesel engine I worked on had four 4' diameter turbochargers with 30 wt conventional oil in their own sumps, an no oil lubricated problems. Do use the quality and viscosity engine oil recommended in the owner's manual. Low viscosity oils such as 5W-20 and 0W-20 create less internal friction inside the engine for a sliver less drag and a bit better gas mileage, as well as being more suitable in frigid temperatures. The current top oil categories are ILSAC GF-6A and API Service Category SP. Those are upgraded every few years, and always buy the most current. They will be fully compatible with the older categories listed in older owner's manuals.

Generally agree, though there are some performance differences if you really care. It probably matters more for the turbo engine because there you care more about flashpoint and heat-related viscosity loss and not all oils are created equal there, even if they all meet the minimum specs for certification.

For filters, it's different. There is no industry standard for oil filters like there is for, say, GF-6A/SP 5W-30 engine oil. Each engine maker's oil filter is a secret. Aftermarket oil filter companies may reverse engineer the engine maker's filter and make one that matches or just pick one out of their catalog that seems to be close enough. During the warranty period I suggest sticking with the engine maker's filters. After the warranty any top brand of filter is likely just fine.

I do not know if there is any functional difference in the Mazda filters from different makers in different countries. I do know that during the engine warranty period any suitable Mazda filter fully satisfies the warranty requirements.

I read that the turbo filter IS different than the non-turbo filter, specifically in its bypass operation, but I don't know too much about specifics. If someone could tell me how much oil pressure we're supposed to be seeing on these engines I could possibly use a scanner to verify that I'm in range.

But there are 2 reasons I won't buy 3rd party oil filters for my engine:

1. I do not know if any of these other companies have taken into account the differences in the Mazda engine requirements for the turbo/non-turbo filters
2. Even the best, correct filter from the Mazda parts counter is only $12. If I'm meeting Mazda requirements and changing it every 5K miles, why bother looking elsewhere.