What should I do!! HELP!

TulsaMike

Member
Today I dropped the hammer. I purchased a 2007 MS6 with only 24K miles for what I believe is a good deal. Guess what? The MS6 breaks down on me at 10:30pm on my way home from the dealership!! Including my test drive this was the 20th mile that I have owned the car.

I purchased the MS6 from a Jeep Dealership locally who I have purchased 2 Jeeps from within the last 2 years. I fully trust this dealership to stand behind their product. They sent a tow truck to pick up the MS6 this late at night, and have assured me they will fix any issue with the car. The Mazda is also still under factory warranty.

What should I do? Should I cut the deal and run? I don't want to do this because I have been looking for this particular color and it is extremely clean! I have been looking and test driving every MS6 within 200 miles for 6 months. My brain tells me DANGER get away, but I also am hoping it is something minor.

What happened? The MS6 was running great in town. Then I got on the highway and was cruzing home at about 70mph. I change lanes to pass a truck and gave it some gas, but did not downshift, still in 6th. Then the first issue took place. There was a rough vibration from the rearend. I let off the gas and then punched it again at 70mph, same vibration.
So I think, I must be in to tall a gear. I clutch and go to downshift. All hell breaks lose. I cannot get the car into any gear. I pump clutch, and still cannot grab any gear trying to force it. hit hazards and pull over to the side of the highway. At this point my clutch is sticking and will only raise about 30% after a pump. Car rolls to a stop and idles very rough. I kill the car and call the salesman on his cell!

Should I run from this MS6?
Or should I try a Mazda dealership to research the issue since I still have 3 months on the factory remaining warranty?

Sorry for the long rant and Thank You in advance for any advice.
 
Not 100% but....

Sounds like the rear differential mount.....here's some info i found that might help. I've heard a few people saying that the stock mount is weak and can be damaged if the car is launched hard. Good luck.

http://forum.***************/mazdas...mps-noob-thread-summary-guide-new-owners.html

2. Rear diff REAR mount bushings: http://www.turbinetech.ca/produit_de...e63862&lang=AN
The bushings in this mount are especially weak in stock form, allowing the diff to move around more than it should.

*or* us a Tie Down Strap (instead of getting mounts, however, this is only a temporary fix)
You can strap it with a tie down strap, just make sure when you do this it is even/centered and not pulled to one side..
This is the "poor man's" fix:
http://forum.***************/mazdaspeed6/197808-diff-strapping-101-a.html
 
RUN if they dont fix it all Have them look at the transfer case in the Front, the clutch trans to make sure it dident mess anything up in it, If you feel like its not gonna work, you have I think 72 hrs to back out of the contract (at least in TX anyway)
I would take it to Mazda if you want to keep it, they will know whats wrong with it and see what they say, Should tell buying dealer you dont want car till they know whats wrong with it, seeing that it was running really rough might of done somthing to the motor, when at the dealer tell them to check the oil and trans fluid for and metal in it.
 
Both my MS6 and MINI were purchased from a dealer. Test drove them a bunch, everything fine. Take them home - problems. It's just the risk you take when you buy a USED car. I don't care how reputable the dealer is, once a used car is off the lot, its technically not their problem. Personally, I would just put the money into the car and get it fixed - correctly. Then I would take it and do the next scheduled maint.+ all the other work. I always assume that a used car was used by the most incompetent of drivers so I like to know that all the fluids are new, wires are correct and everything is how it should be. You are likely to lose money trying to get out of the Loan agreement and all that BS. I would just take a gander at your states Lemon Laws to see if it covers used vehicles ( I don't think it will but couldnt hurt to check.)
Goodluck with your problems
 
Get them to check the hydraulics fluid on the clutch. Happened to me. But if it's under warranty, just get it's ass to mazda.
 
Good news, had it towed it to Mazda and they said all it was is the Clutch. They will have a new one in tomorrow. My Dealership paid for the tow, and they are giving me a loaner. Guess I am keeping this MS6.
Thank you all again.
 
Good news, had it towed it to Mazda and they said all it was is the Clutch. They will have a new one in tomorrow. My Dealership paid for the tow, and they are giving me a loaner. Guess I am keeping this MS6.
Thank you all again.

Yeah I had to get my clutch replaced. It's gonna be like 4k worth of parts and labor for free. =]
 
Good news, had it towed it to Mazda and they said all it was is the Clutch. They will have a new one in tomorrow. My Dealership paid for the tow, and they are giving me a loaner. Guess I am keeping this MS6.
Thank you all again.

glad it is still under warranty! clutch replacement aint cheap.
I just now read this for the first time, and suspected bad clutch right away when you said the pedal wouldnt return. definitly wouldnt be rear diff... HOWEVER...

just some fyi, this car requires a good amount of care and PREVENTATIVE work.
in other words, get a rear diff brace upgrade NOW, change oil religiously, get a monitoring device (dashhawk, cobb AP, scangauge, analog gauges) ASAP! Closely follow maintenance schedules, and last but not least NEVER stomp on the gas when in high gear and low RPMs... that is the recipe for a zoom zoom boom mazda.

anyway, i hope this and your incident dont scare you away from the MS6.
If you treat it right, it WILL treat YOU right... (upbum)
 
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Parts alone are like 2k, if your not paying the dealer. I can see how they'd milk another 2k out of it and labor costs. This car is not the cheapest to maintain, but still a heck of a lot better than some other cars
 
hey what's up the clutch kit for a mazdaspeed 6 from dealer was like less than $500 ,HOW CAN IT COST 4K TO REPLACE ,strange to say .
 
hey what's up the clutch kit for a mazdaspeed 6 from dealer was like less than $500 ,HOW CAN IT COST 4K TO REPLACE ,strange to say .

they didnt replace just the clutch on mine. they replaced everything including the pedal all the way back to the plate. all the lines and everything. idk. a lot of s***?
 
glad it is still under warranty! clutch replacement aint cheap.
I just now read this for the first time, and suspected bad clutch right away when you said the pedal wouldnt return. definitly wouldnt be rear diff... HOWEVER...

just some fyi, this car requires a good amount of care and PREVENTATIVE work.
in other words, get a rear diff brace upgrade NOW, change oil religiously, get a monitoring device (dashhawk, cobb AP, scangauge, analog gauges) ASAP! Closely follow maintenance schedules, and last but not least NEVER stomp on the gas when in high gear and low RPMs... that is the recipe for a zoom zoom boom mazda.

anyway, i hope this and your incident dont scare you away from the MS6.
If you treat it right, it WILL treat YOU right... (upbum)


I disagree on the rear diff brace upgrade and all of the monitoring devices, especially if he's stock. Hell, I don't feel I need any of those items adn I have just a full intake and a test pipe. Don't scare the guy!
 
It sounds like you also experienced the stutter/shudder that is common to this car. High gear + sudden accel = some chugging. You really don't want to go quickly into boost when you're cruising in 6th at low RPMs, like for a quick pass. Either ramp it up slowly or downshift to 5th if you need to hammer it.
 
I disagree on the rear diff brace upgrade and all of the monitoring devices, especially if he's stock. Hell, I don't feel I need any of those items adn I have just a full intake and a test pipe. Don't scare the guy!

lol, oh... i assumed he was modding which would make what i was saying TRUE. BUT, i shouldnt assume. Because you are correct when it comes to stock; nothing overtly bad will occur unless you beat on the thing, lol.

It sounds like you also experienced the stutter/shudder that is common to this car. High gear + sudden accel = some chugging. You really don't want to go quickly into boost when you're cruising in 6th at low RPMs, like for a quick pass. Either ramp it up slowly or downshift to 5th if you need to hammer it.

exactly, if he is stock that is probly the only real thing to keep in mind in terms of driving habits.
 
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