What kind of motor oil do you use?

What kind of synthetic motor oil do you use?


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I'm still a bit confused about how one can "like" one oil better than another, and what the "noticeable" differences are? I've used lots of different oils over the years in lots of different cars, I've always done my own oil changes, I've always driven these cars "before and after" the oil changes and put lots of miles on them, etc... I never "noticed" anything different from oil to oil.

As well I never really had any specific "preference" for a specific oil... it all looks and feels pretty much the same when you pour it into the crankcase. I suppose if I had some thorough unbiased reliable detailed test data "proving" that one oil was truly "better" than another (in terms of its lubrication properties, durability, etc), then I'd want the "better" one... other than that, I don't see how it is possible for one to develop a "preference", unless it's just a matter of being influenced by marketing and hearsay. This is not in any way meant to be a "diss" to anyone, I'm just trying to understand why some have oil preferences, at least when not quoting accurate, reliable test data.

In the meantime, I've been using Mobil 1 in my Corvette because that's what the owner's manual calls for. Is it better or worse than anything else? I really don't know. When in doubt, I like to follow the owner's manual though, in most cases you can't go wrong. Since I stocked up on a lot of Mobil 1, I'm using it in the MS3 now also... "seems" just fine. But of course, that statement doesn't really mean anything... all I know is that I pour the oil into the crankcase, the engine runs fine, period. Maybe it's the best oil in the world, maybe it's horrible. I'd have no basis to show or prove one way or the other.

I guess if I tear my engine down at 200k miles and the internals are still in excellent condition, that would show the oil was good. I've sold a lot of cars with over 150k miles, never had an internal engine problem, never burned oil, engines still tight, good performance, no sludge, etc... based on my past experiences, I can say with full confidence that basic old-school "dino" oil served me just fine, as I look back I wouldn't have done anything any differently, there would have been no need. But... none of these cars were turbos, so... I actually AM more interested in running a decent synthetic in the MS3 specifically due to the turbo.... apparently it can get awfully hot, so you need an oil that will not break down too easily in a high heat situation.

You can do oil analysis which will show breakdowns of what kinds of metals are wearing in the engine etc. I get less wear using Amsoil compared to other synethic oils in my evo (2.0L turbo).

Mobil 1 is all right, but they're not the best - they're not fully synthetic as their labeling suggests. I felt the same as you, I pretty much thought it was all the same, and I trusted Mobil 1 as that's what the dealer used, what the manual recommended. But I actually and sincerely noticed the car running smoother, maybe 1% quicker, better mpg with Amsoil. The lubrication is just way better, allows the motor to run better. And I always say, at least try it once - If you don't like it you can always go back, no harm done.

For some people its not worth the cost.. for me, I drove my Evo daily, tuned at 25psi etc, and I never had an issue. I loved having just that tiny bit extra of peace of mind.
I will say for most people, yea it might not be worth it. For those who are really particular/anal about their cars, it's worth it for sure.
 
I've used a crap load of different oils over the years. I always seemed to prefer the synthetic oils in my FI cars but I've honestly never been able say I could tell a difference in the way a car ran. I don't know how someone could unless they were running the wrong viscosity. For me it comes down to how well it holds up. On my STI if I ran Mobil 1 or Amsoil I'd need to top off with a quart every 2000 miles. Switched to Royal Purple and I could make it to 3000.

I believe they should all have similar lubricating characteristics going into the crankcase or they're labeled incorrectly.
 
Holy thread bat bumpman!

Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 goes into mine.

While we're on the subject, I want to switch over to Shell Rotella T6 5w-40 next change. I'd like something with a thicker viscosity now that I deleted a cat (smokage) and I've heard nothing but good things about it. I also want to get a catch can and seafoam it one more time before doing so.
 
Ill start this back up. I did my first Oil Change at Merchants Tire, they used Penzoil Conventional 5w20. And i picked up a 5qt jug of Quakerstate 5w20 conventional (@ 4200miles) time for second oil change.

Ive heard mixed ideas if i should stay with the manual recommended 5w20 or go 5w30 (same that my truck uses so i can buy in bulk).

Whats everyones suggestion?

Both the MS3 and the 2.5 S models use 5w30.
 
haha. i've tried out a variety, i rank amsoil and eneos up top.. evos have never liked RP so I dont use that. I definitely notice a difference between amsoil and mobil 1 though - engine runs smoother, pulls smoother etc.

I've got hook ups (with amsoil), let me know if anyone wants it!

I was in class and my speech teacher was talking about it ive only used castrol but he sang its praises so im will to give it a shot if its better lets do this
 
My 2010 Mazda3 GT-HB gets the stock reccomended oil that they tested the engine with . Possibly when the warranty expires I will go to syn but My NON-TURBO 2.5 dosent need the expensive suff and I dont race the car . Yeah I know start-ups are where the most wear occurs and syn is best -- Ok maybe but I am a DAILY driver and I dont see the top end going bone dry in 6 -8 hours between drives --seems a bit absurd - These Mazda powerplants are made to handle running on the dino
 
Holy thread bat bumpman!



While we're on the subject, I want to switch over to Shell Rotella T6 5w-40 next change. I'd like something with a thicker viscosity now that I deleted a cat (smokage) and I've heard nothing but good things about it. I also want to get a catch can and seafoam it one more time before doing so.

Which planet are U from ?(weakest)
 
i always used RP in my MSP. now that i have the MS3 with an oil change coming up im not sure. i was always happy with RP, so i think i will stick with it.
 
I always used Mobil 1 in my Protege and was planning on using it in my 3 when I switched to synthetic, but I have since reconsidered. I found a link to an article on another forum about a test on a bunch of synthetics - it found Mobil 1 to be one of the worst, while Royal Purple was the best. Here's a link to the test, which I believe originally comes from some Australian auto mag: http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf?bcsi_scan_6F88D07203151B30=0&bcsi_scan_filename=Oil%20Tests.pdf (M1 page 6, RP page 9). Valvoline Durablend tested as the best value brand, easily outperforming Mobil 1.

Royal Purple is pretty expensive, so a bunch of people on this other forum have been using Pennzoil Platinum instead since it's cheap and apparently also performs better than Mobil 1.
 
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I've been using Castrol 5w20 and a Bosch filter in my P5 for years and have carried the same over to the 3 (only one oil change so far).
 
penzoil platinum. this stuff has been proven to hold up better than most on our fuel diluted mzr disi. many ppl have sent in oil samples and this stuff always seemed to come back in the best condition.
 
Just switched from Conventional to Synthetic Blend Motorcraft 5w20 and the Toughguard 6x TG3614 Oil Filter. Hit 7800miles, 3rd oil change (1100, 4500, 7800). By 15k I will switch to full synthetic. Just trying something different, never used synthetic in a non-boosted car, but it cant hurt.
 
Which planet are U from ?(weakest)

You know... the one with the most common sense? Weakest link? Why? Because I want a marginally thicker oil and a catch can to prevent any type of soot build up and turbo seal smoking as well? You crazy.
 
I use Royal Purple 5w30. You can buy it in a 5 gallon pail on Amazon.com ...equivalent to 20qts at $6.25 a quart.
 
I use Royal Purple 5w30. You can buy it in a 5 gallon pail on Amazon.com ...equivalent to 20qts at $6.25 a quart.


not a bad price, i just looked it up. Any reason why your doing the heavier weight then 5w20? the MS3's and MS6's are standard 5w30.... just curious.
 
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