What have you done to your CX-5 today?

fleabay, china, $40, 2 1/2 weeks......fit snug, sturdy pieces, gloss black that matches upper grille perfectly....
 
Replaced the right rear door carrier assembly due to broken holes where the window guide bolted up. Wife had reported the window wasn't going up all the way. Not sure how it was broken but I suspect someone either pulled on the window or tried to shut it on something multiple times.

BTW, if you have to remove the door panel guarantee the fasteners holding it in place will break when you do so. Best to plan on getting new ones before you have to put it back together (rear doors take eight pieces).
 
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Replaced the right rear door carrier assembly due to broken holes where the window guide bolted up. Wife had reported the window wasn't going up all the way. Not sure how it was broken but I suspect someone either pulled on the window or tried to shut it on something multiple times.

BTW, if you have to remove the door panel guarantee the fasteners holding it in place will break when you do so. Best to plan on getting new ones before you have to put it back together (rear doors take eight pieces).
Broken holes? How is that possible? Hope we can see some pictures.

Haven’t tried to pull the door panels myself but dealer had done that to replace both 9” Bose woofers on the front door under warranty.

Have pulled the door panels many times on my 1998 Honda CR-V、2000 BMW 528i、and 2001.5 VW Passat, these plastic clips or fasteners were always fine without the need to be replaced.
 
Windshield tint complete......
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Splashguards out for delivery. Almost done
 
Broken holes? How is that possible? Hope we can see some pictures.

Haven’t tried to pull the door panels myself but dealer had done that to replace both 9” Bose woofers on the front door under warranty.

Have pulled the door panels many times on my 1998 Honda CR-V、2000 BMW 528i、and 2001.5 VW Passat, these plastic clips or fasteners were always fine without the need to be replaced.

yeah same here on all my cars. Integra, Miata, Corolla, all had door cards pulled multiple times and never broke any clips. My Integra's door cards have been off DOZENS of times over the past 22 years.
 
yeah same here on all my cars. Integra, Miata, Corolla, all had door cards pulled multiple times and never broke any clips. My Integra's door cards have been off DOZENS of times over the past 22 years.

Haven’t tried to pull the door panels myself but dealer had done that to replace both 9” Bose woofers on the front door under warranty.

Have pulled the door panels many times on my 1998 Honda CR-V、2000 BMW 528i、and 2001.5 VW Passat, these plastic clips or fasteners were always fine without the need to be replaced.
I'm happy for you both, really. :cool: I too have taken off numerous door cards on different vehicles, however the clips used on these aren't friendly to removal. Go ahead and pull yours off, I'll wait. I didn't take any pictures you will have to take my word for the breakage. I have no idea exactly how it happened, but suspect a grandkid was involved.

Today I replaced the left rear wheel hub. Been hearing a growling noise not associated with the engine. I suspected the wheel bearing was toast thanks to a hung-up caliper pin that caused everything to get too hot. Ordered up a new Timken hub from Rock Auto. Went on fairly easily, there was some corrosion but nothing some AeroKroil and an impact couldn't handle. I was surprised that the old hub hadn't seized onto the axle. FYI, there is a nice slot at the bottom of where the hub attaches to the upright to allow something to be put in there to pry (I didn't know about this until I had the old hub off). Got the new one installed, test drive showed the problem was resolved.
 
I'm happy for you both, really. :cool: I too have taken off numerous door cards on different vehicles, however the clips used on these aren't friendly to removal. Go ahead and pull yours off, I'll wait. I didn't take any pictures you will have to take my word for the breakage. I have no idea exactly how it happened, but suspect a grandkid was involved.
Just removed the inside panel of the trunk lid on my 2000 BMW 528i and all plastic clips were fine after pulled even though they’re 23 years old. I was careful on them and used a clip removal tool that should help too.

Based on your experience, I’d be even more careful if I had a need to remove the door panel on my CX-5.


Today I replaced the left rear wheel hub. Been hearing a growling noise not associated with the engine. I suspected the wheel bearing was toast thanks to a hung-up caliper pin that caused everything to get too hot. Ordered up a new Timken hub from Rock Auto. Went on fairly easily, there was some corrosion but nothing some AeroKroil and an impact couldn't handle. I was surprised that the old hub hadn't seized onto the axle. FYI, there is a nice slot at the bottom of where the hub attaches to the upright to allow something to be put in there to pry (I didn't know about this until I had the old hub off). Got the new one installed, test drive showed the problem was resolved.
Oh boy, caliper pin anain ⋯
 
Got my daughter a black 23 PP last week. I washed it today, polished some places on it to get rid of residue from protective film from factory, put a coat of sealant on entire car and a light ceramic spray coat. Also did the same for her rims and put in new set of Maxpider 3d floor mats. Been using them in my truck for 6 years and love them.

Got her a map card from Amazon and that is working great. Also got the pro tech covers for gauge cluster, infotainment screen and gear shift area. Waiting for it to come in.
 
New member here, so it's my first post. The factory trunk liner I ordered arrived today.
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And I had the the front two windows tinted 25% ceramic tint, while the rest used Llumar clear air 80.
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However, when the shop did the windshield, they removed the homelink mirror. And they failed to put back the torx screw, which caused the mirror to be loose. Not the end of the world. But when I rectified their mistake today, I noticed the holder for the female end of the homelink plug broken. I only have 250 miles on the CX-5...
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But when I rectified their mistake today, I noticed the holder for the female end of the homelink plug broken. I only have 250 miles on the CX-5...
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Just can’t trust those car shops anymore, even the car dealers are no better.

I had a chance to re-check a simple 5,000-mile maintenance done by a Toyota dealer covered by Toyota 2-Year New Vehicle No Cost Maintenance Plan on my daughter’s 2022 Corolla Hatchback this morning. The oil level is only to the half between Add and Full marks. The tire pressure apparently didn’t get adjusted after the tire rotation, as the front were 33 psi and the rear were 35 psi, but the factory recommends 33 / 30 F / R and I usually put 3 psi more for each tire. I also re-checked the torque of the lug nuts and they’re all much tighter than recommended 76 ft•lbf!
 
Just can’t trust those car shops anymore, even the car dealers are no better.

I had a chance to re-check a simple 5,000-mile maintenance done by a Toyota dealer covered by Toyota 2-Year New Vehicle No Cost Maintenance Plan on my daughter’s 2022 Corolla Hatchback this morning. The oil level is only to the half between Add and Full marks. The tire pressure apparently didn’t get adjusted after the tire rotation, as the front were 33 psi and the rear were 35 psi, but the factory recommends 33 / 30 F / R and I usually put 3 psi more for each tire. I also re-checked the torque of the lug nuts and they’re all much tighter than recommended 76 ft•lbf!
What's really annoying, is the kind of vehicles the shop works on are higher end than my mid-level CX-5. I'm annoyed, but I can't really do much about it (other than complain). I can't see it with the cover on. And, mercifully it doesn't rattle. At least my mirror isn't loose.

A dash cam with parking mode is high on the priority list. Then the inner tail lights from the Premium.
 
I changed my oil for the first time ever on a car. Was tired of my local dealer using low quality oil and Mazda value parts. Can’t say I was surprised to find the access panel missing its screws and barely hanging on while the drain plug was stripped too. They were clearly using a pliers or a vise grip to take it on and off based on all the markings. Happy I finally did it myself.
 
I'm annoyed, but I can't really do much about it (other than complain). I can't see it with the cover on. And, mercifully it doesn't rattle

Well, my happiness was short-lived. The mirror vibrates while driving...

Looking at the instructions for the frameless mirror, it says the torx screw as to be torqued at 15 lb-in. Which means I'd have to wait a few days until my tint cures before tackling this project again. And I buy a set of torx bits for my ratchet.
 
Well, my happiness was short-lived. The mirror vibrates while driving...

Looking at the instructions for the frameless mirror, it says the torx screw as to be torqued at 15 lb-in. Which means I'd have to wait a few days until my tint cures before tackling this project again. And I buy a set of torx bits for my ratchet.
Yes you really need that Torx T20 pointed-tip screw of your mirror will vibrate.

Actually this mirror screw is prone to get loose all the time. My mirror is loose again and I’d tightened it up 3 times. Be aware you don’t want to make it too tight, or you may crack the windshield. There’s a Service Alert for that, only 15 in•lbf (1.25 ft•lbs which is very light) recommended like you said.
 
Yes you really need that Torx T20 pointed-tip screw of your mirror will vibrate.

Actually this mirror screw is prone to get loose all the time. My mirror is loose again and I’d tightened it up 3 times. Be aware you don’t want to make it too tight, or you may crack the windshield. There’s a Service Alert for that, only 15 in•lbf (1.25 ft•lbs which is very light) recommended like you said.
Would a touch of blue thread lock help?
 
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