What have you done to your CX-5 today?

Performed first new engine oil and filter change (1250 Miles) (plenty of very fine metal swirling about in the oil, but no where near the amount of my Dodge's 4.7 Magnum had)

After swirling a neodymium magnet around in the oil for about 3 min I'm happy to say I didn't find any appreciable amount of iron.

Added 300ml of MoS2 to 5 Quarts. Also installed 2nd version of my 3D printed 'Magneto' Oil Filter Magnet. (silly)

Replaced the existing drain plug with a Fumoto F-106N drain valve.

Riddle me this guys, I know the manual say's the 2.5L has ~4.8 quarts of oil capacity. I checked the oil level before changing and found it slightly higher then 1/2 between the stick indicators. I checked the level after I had poured ~4.5 quarts of oil (that also contained the 300ml of MoS2) and was just above the 1st indicator. Poured the remaining oil which brought it up to a hair over the factory level, but well under the upper stick indicator. Was the factory fill more then 5qts? I expected with 300ml of Molly, and 5 full qts I would be much higher then the factory fill.
 
I’ve had three Mazda’s and none came with oil to the top mark. It’s irrelevant because they are not suggesting that the top mark is an accurate marker of the capacity, they are saying that’s the high level if you overfill it. Add the correct amount and don’t beat yourself up as to where between the two markers it falls.

I’m pleased to report for any diesel owners that the oil on my 2017 model has not budged on my dipstick. It’s not diluting and it’s not using (unless it’s doing both at the same rate but it doesn’t stink of diesel). It suggests that the latest piston and ring mods worked.
 
rj_make said:
⋯ Riddle me this guys, I know the manual say's the 2.5L has ~4.8 quarts of oil capacity. I checked the oil level before changing and found it slightly higher then 1/2 between the stick indicators. I checked the level after I had poured ~4.5 quarts of oil (that also contained the 300ml of MoS2) and was just above the 1st indicator. Poured the remaining oil which brought it up to a hair over the factory level, but well under the upper stick indicator. Was the factory fill more then 5qts? I expected with 300ml of Molly, and 5 full qts I would be much higher then the factory fill.
Click to expand...
Based on members experience if you drain the oil completely (not with Fumoto valve as itll keep some old oil in the oil pan), itll take 5.3~5.4 quarts of fresh oil to reach the Full (or MAX for 2017 CX-5) mark on the dipstick.
 
yrwei52 said:
Based on member’s experience if you drain the oil completely (not with Fumoto valve as it’ll keep some old oil in the oil pan), it’ll take 5.3~5.4 quarts of fresh oil to reach the “Full” (or “MAX” for 2017 CX-5) mark on the dipstick.
Click to expand...

Ok, that makes sense, as I left it open for over an hour 'draining'.

Thanks
 
Can anyone suggest a front number license plate holder that could protect the fragile appearing front end of the CX-5?
I live in a congested city with crappy drivers and slim parking spots.
I also wonder how the 19” wheels hold up to potholes.
-
No rush for a reply... I’m waiting on the diesel (ha ha)...
 
Anchorman said:
I’ve had three Mazda’s and none came with oil to the top mark. It’s irrelevant because they are not suggesting that the top mark is an accurate marker of the capacity, they are saying that’s the high level if you overfill it. Add the correct amount and don’t beat yourself up as to where between the two markers it falls.

I’m pleased to report for any diesel owners that the oil on my 2017 model has not budged on my dipstick. It’s not diluting and it’s not using (unless it’s doing both at the same rate but it doesn’t stink of diesel). It suggests that the latest piston and ring mods worked.
Click to expand...
Sounds good! I really haven't checked mine since I brought it home from the dealer. I'm obliged to check it later. Hehe!
 
Beat a Honda Accord off the line yesterday to get into the on-ramp. Driver in the Accord, she was not happy LOL.
 
Stopped for gas last night and broke out the ol' tire gauge to check the pressure in the recently patched/plugged tire. All was good and it just so happened that where it was fixed was staring me in the eye. Saw a couple of rock in the tread so I picked them out except for one. Yup, it wasn't a rock, it was metal, right in the center of the tire. Appears to be a nail that was bent a bit after driving on it.
 
Finally got around to direct-wiring my radar detector.

I used this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)
to tap into the Homelink mirror harness.

Notes for '17 owners:

1. The release for the molex connector is on the top ... nearest the vehicle roof.
2. The black wire in the center is the ground.
3. The purple wire on one end is switched power.
4. The pins that insert into the back of the connector are curved and must be rotated until they align with the metal terminal in the connector.
Once they have the correct orientation they slip right in.
5. The power connector works on both my Escort Max 360 AND my Uniden R3.

An easy modification that eliminates the coiled cord stretched across the windshield.
A nice low-cost solution.
 
Turborascal said:
Finally got around to direct-wiring my radar detector.

I used this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)
to tap into the Homelink mirror harness.

Notes for '17 owners:

1. The release for the molex connector is on the top ... nearest the vehicle roof.
2. The black wire in the center is the ground.
3. The purple wire on one end is switched power.
4. The pins that insert into the back of the connector are curved and must be rotated until they align with the metal terminal in the connector.
Once they have the correct orientation they slip right in.
5. The power connector works on both my Escort Max 360 AND my Uniden R3.

An easy modification that eliminates the coiled cord stretched across the windshield.
A nice low-cost solution.
Click to expand...

Duly noted and thank you very much!
 
Got my invisicord installed this morning. I need the sunstrip dark tinted so I can install the Radar Detector behind the tint close to the RVM.
 
After raining the past 3 days I finally was able to get a car wash.

db19d72923c56de86f312249a77435aa.jpg
 
Must have got in when I was doing maintenance and had the hatch and panels open, or worked it's way in over time from inside. There was a period where the light had popped out and I didn't realize it.
 
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