Very disappointed..

capnsavem said:
you made 101hp!?!? dang!!! with what?? flubber??? (boom07)
Roffle....with intake and header i made 103whp....and i beat or kept up with every P5 i raced. I think theres a whole lot of inaccurate dynos on the forum
 
Replica said:
Roffle....with intake and header i made 103whp....and i beat or kept up with every P5 i raced. I think theres a whole lot of inaccurate dynos on the forum
agreed... when i hear people talking 120hp with just regular bolt-ons i feel sorry for them, because i realize they're obviously dellusional or just ignorant and have been lied to.

poor guys.
 
flat_black said:
I bought my P5 when it first came out... Literally, two days after I first saw them, and got it for 14,500 out the door.
damn i saw them sticker for 18-19k...
 
flat_black said:
I bought my P5 when it first came out... Literally, two days after I first saw them, and got it for 14,500 out the door.

Damn I paid $14,400 for my '02 in September 2003 with 34,000 miles on it. Oh well it runs better today than it did when I brought it home.
 
Um...P5's make like 98whp stock at the crank. Hell, my 5 spd made 101whp with a CAI.

um- crank not wheels.

p5s are rated at 130 at the crank.
Corolla S is probably something like 80 at the wheels.
 
I dynoed at 107 to the wheels with a lightened flywheel and lighter 17 in Rota Attacks. If I got CAI, headers, cams, and made 10 to 20 more hp......

Uh, who would care? It would still be SLOW.
 
japmaxse said:
After reading a dozen threads on N2O. I came to the conclusion that P5 motors suck. I was planning on spraying it but damn the engine is way to advanced the engine internals are week jesus christ I can't do anything to this car. If I can't simply spray a 50 shot for god sake why in the hell would I put money in this car for more performance. This is my first Mazda and at first I purchased the car to just get to point A to B but after putting the rims, springs, Hi Power Exhaust and SS it handles, sounds good and looks sharp. But that's where it stops. It's slow as hell it falls flat on it's face after 5krpm's.

So besides headers, Catback exhaust and a CAI. What else can someone do to get this car to run in the mid 14's without changing internals or boosting?


Please help I'm suffering from slowinitis.. (puke)

hey, you bought it.
 
nealric said:
um- crank not wheels.

p5s are rated at 130 at the crank.
Corolla S is probably something like 80 at the wheels.
Whoops. that didn't make any sense. At the wheels....101whp then 103whp with i/h/e

A Corrolla S is rated at 130 crank. I don't now why it would make less than a P5...
 
hmm maybe I was wrong- but I remember the corolla S at 108 to the crank- maybe im thinking of a regular corolla.
 
POSEIDON said:
hey, you bought it.
I just got my 12lb bottle from my boy today.
Now I just started to make my CAI very easy should be done tomorrow.

But I noticed their is some sort of secondary runners in the IM. Is this VICS?
Wow I have something similar on my maxima it's called the MEVI.
I assume the butterfly's open at an XRpm via vacuum actuated by a solenoid?

Is this a true dual runner or is it closed where momentum of air is flowed when open and increases velocities in the plenum?
Open for high end hp and closed for low end tq.

Any noticeable gains with it open at all times?
 
Ok I think I know exactly what's causing these engines to blow will maybe.
Simple if it's not a true dual runner and has a secondary chamber. What happens is when the butterfly's open at xrpm the air is circulated like an Air charger effect. When you spray N2O/Fuel mix is introduced through the intake it circles around into the secondary chamber causing the mixture to puddle in the secondary chamber. If the IM is hot enough it will cause Nitrous backfire. This happens quite often with our MEVI unit. Sometime as it puddles when your on your second pass the extra mixture will be forced in before the desired rpm. causing detonation. This you may not even notice.

I rather have it closed if I'm spraying just to be safe. Anyone else want to comment on this?
 
Japmaxse, I have a single runner manifold from a 2.0L 626 from '91... It does act like a resonance chamber, on the stock one, but if you'd like, you can buy the 626 manifold from me, and I'll port it up for you (Once I get my new bits in). That'll at least let you test it on the single runner style, hopefully with better luck. *shrugs* Where are you mounting the nozzle for the NOS? On the manifold, or intake pipe? This would also allow you to mount it on the manifold with no reprecussions, presumibly.

You'd need to reroute the EGR, but a a metal heater 1/2" gas line hose works quite well for that. Or you could cap both ends, and run EGR-less.
 
japmaxse said:
Ok I think I know exactly what's causing these engines to blow will maybe.
Simple if it's not a true dual runner and has a secondary chamber. What happens is when the butterfly's open at xrpm the air is circulated like an Air charger effect. When you spray N2O/Fuel mix is introduced through the intake it circles around into the secondary chamber causing the mixture to puddle in the secondary chamber. If the IM is hot enough it will cause Nitrous backfire. This happens quite often with our MEVI unit. Sometime as it puddles when your on your second pass the extra mixture will be forced in before the desired rpm. causing detonation. This you may not even notice.

I rather have it closed if I'm spraying just to be safe. Anyone else want to comment on this?
Interesting...ive heard of puddling on mustangs in the upper part of the manifold. Good theory.
 
japmaxse said:
Ok I think I know exactly what's causing these engines to blow will maybe.
Simple if it's not a true dual runner and has a secondary chamber. What happens is when the butterfly's open at xrpm the air is circulated like an Air charger effect. When you spray N2O/Fuel mix is introduced through the intake it circles around into the secondary chamber causing the mixture to puddle in the secondary chamber. If the IM is hot enough it will cause Nitrous backfire. This happens quite often with our MEVI unit. Sometime as it puddles when your on your second pass the extra mixture will be forced in before the desired rpm. causing detonation. This you may not even notice.

I rather have it closed if I'm spraying just to be safe. Anyone else want to comment on this?
wow you may have just discovered the secret to spraying our cars if you actually try it out with a single runner im and find everything works fine and dandy lets us know because i would love to spray my p5 but i dont want it to blow so let me know
 
djdanny5000 said:
wow you may have just discovered the secret to spraying our cars if you actually try it out with a single runner im and find everything works fine and dandy lets us know because i would love to spray my p5 but i dont want it to blow so let me know

Uh, no he didn't find a "secret", at least not for these engines.

Have you seen the skinny rods on the stock engines?
The secret to any kind of boost or nitrous is a correctly built engine.

Yes, our intakes suck (I will be running a 626 mani on my turbo application), but I still would not suggest spraying the 2.0 on a stock block with any manifold.
 
65racecoupe said:
Uh, no he didn't find a "secret", at least not for these engines.

Have you seen the skinny rods on the stock engines?
The secret to any kind of boost or nitrous is a correctly built engine.

Yes, our intakes suck (I will be running a 626 mani on my turbo application), but I still would not suggest spraying the 2.0 on a stock block with any manifold.

It depends on how much N2O your going to spray. I've seen weak motors such as MId 70's Honda four bangers and Chevy's 2.8 take 75 shot's with no prob. If you can buy the Hi boost kit and put over 210whp without changing any internals then a simple 50 or 75 shot should be nothing.

I've searched but no one has any specific detail of them blowing their car up with a 50 shot nor 75. If I where to bet on it I would have to say either driver error, poorly tuned or the vics (IM).
 
Last edited:
Actually I found a couple guys on here who run with NX wet kit 75 shot no prob. But there was one guy who ran a 50 dry and blew the motor. Of course with a dry shot their are more risks. You better make sure you have enough fuel to accommodate or Kaboom. One member mentioned with the dry shot you must turn up the base FP.


IMO the bottom line is get it tuned properly don't get greedy and a 50-75 shot should be just fine. (thumb)
I will soon find out I just finished the CAI. I plan on positioning the nozels and came up with 6" to 9" inches away from the TB, that should be good.
 
Back