Synthetic oil

is synthetic worth it?

I just got my cx9 a few days ago, I'm wondering if I should empty my oil now and put in some mobile1 synthetic or should i just wait for the 7500 and switch then if at all?
 
IMHO, one should use synthetic oil if any one of the following is true:
1) you race your vehicle on track often
2) your oil change interval is longer than 10K
3) your oil change interval is longer than 1 yr
4) you drive many short distance trips, and engine goes cold between two drives often
5) you don't driven a lot, and your vehicle might sit for days between drives.
6) you plan to keep your vehicles for 150miles or more...

All these are due to synthetic oil's properties
- sustain high-temp operation
- resist break down longer
- keep a thin layer of oil on cylinder wall between drives (protect cold starts)
- better lubrication

Most people would do fine w/o synthetic oil provided that they change dyno oil on schedule (such as 5000 or 7500).
 
I just got my cx9 a few days ago, I'm wondering if I should empty my oil now and put in some mobile1 synthetic or should i just wait for the 7500 and switch then if at all?

If I were in your shoes (I was), I'd wait until after the first oil change and then switch. There are no "huge" benefits to synthetic and it is often recommended to run dino oil during the break in period anyways. I agree with Ceric that the benefits of synthetic are relatively limited but I like the peace of mind in not worrying if I should be changing the oil after 5 or 7K depending on how the car is driven. I have mixed city/highway use so will plan to use the Mobil synthetic and aim to change every 7.5K but will not sweat another 1000 or so for convenience sake. Changing every 7.5 is overkill I am sure as my last car required 10K changes with Mobil 1 per Mercedes and I doubt the Ford engine is really any fussier than the MB engine with regard to oil changes.
 
I just got my cx9 a few days ago, I'm wondering if I should empty my oil now and put in some mobile1 synthetic or should i just wait for the 7500 and switch then if at all?

If you change your oil yourself, synthetic is not too outrageously expensive. Walmart has 5 quart jugs for ~$20 every once in a while, I buy that. Just buy a decent filter (NOT FRAM).

There's really no point in changing your oil immediately. Some people like to do the first oil change at 1000-2000 miles, then resume the normal schedule. With modern engines, this is probably overkill.
 
I love my CX-9 so much that I've decided to spend extra $$$ and switch to Royal Purple 5W20. Has enyone had any experience with that oil?
After driving the car for some 500 miles I pulled the dipstick to check the level and was very surpised by the watery consistency of the oil. Mobil 1 10W30 that I use in my other car seems to be a lot thicker.
 
I love my CX-9 so much that I've decided to spend extra $$$ and switch to Royal Purple 5W20. Has enyone had any experience with that oil?
After driving the car for some 500 miles I pulled the dipstick to check the level and was very surpised by the watery consistency of the oil. Mobil 1 10W30 that I use in my other car seems to be a lot thicker.

Make sure you buy the API/ILSAC rated oils. Royal Purple sells some oils that don't carry that certification. In the unlikely event you have engine problems, Mazda can deny warranty coverage because you used a non-API certified oil.

5W-20 is very thin, even at room temperature. I was surprised at how "runny" it was the first time I changed the oil. When you open the drain plug, it really comes out quick, particularly if it is warm. I am used to 30 and 40 weight oil, I suppose.
 
I just got my cx9 a few days ago, I'm wondering if I should empty my oil now and put in some mobile1 synthetic or should i just wait for the 7500 and switch then if at all?
most car manufacturers have special additives to help the motor break in. changing the oil right away will keep that from happening. go a full oil change interval before you swap it out to either types of oil.

Al
 
most car manufacturers have special additives to help the motor break in. changing the oil right away will keep that from happening. go a full oil change interval before you swap it out to either types of oil.

Al

I believe this is more likely 'urban legend' or perhaps a practice that was performed in the 'old days'.
I'm not saying that this practice doesn't exist, but everything I've read on this topic almost always ends up with someone contacting the manufacturer (or someone from the company itself) indicating that the use of so-called 'break-in oils' does not take place in their vehicles.
This might be on the same line as 'warped rotors'.
 
i suppose going easy on the first 500 miles is snake oil, too? could be, but it doesn't hurt.

i agree there has been great advances in engine building over the last 20 years, usually not needing much for their 'break-in' period as supposedly they are done at the factory. but it doesn't hurt to go easy on it at first, and it sure doesn't make sense to change the oil to switch to synthetic before its even due for its first change. that's just silly.

and i'm not sure what you are referring to on warped rotors....

Al
 
and i'm not sure what you are referring to on warped rotors....

Al

The 'experts' say that there really is no such thing as a 'warped' rotor. The pulsation that people feel isn't a result of a rotor that is warped, but since the feeling presents itself that way, that's what people will say is the issue. The issue is actually deposits (brake material) that end up, in a sense, 'welding' themselves to the rotor and then cause an uneven surface for the brake pad to press against. And I'm no expert on the subject, just sharing what I've heard and read.

And I agree with you on your other point. For the first 600 or 1000 miles, it does make sense to err on the side of caution and be 'gentle' to your new engine....no over-the-top revs, don't idle for extended periods, and don't get on the highway and put the cruise control on 70 and keep it there for 500 miles.
 
For the first 600 or 1000 miles, it does make sense to err on the side of caution and be 'gentle' to your new engine....no over-the-top revs, don't idle for extended periods, and don't get on the highway and put the cruise control on 70 and keep it there for 500 miles.

Just curious may be a dumb question but im going to ask it. Why would not be ok to run your new car on cruise control at 70 for 500 miles. I say this because im going on a trip next week im my new CX9 and as of now I only have 100 miles on it probably be at 250 or 300 miles by the time i leave for this trip.
 
Different loads at different speeds help all of the parts (rings, pistons, Tranny, etc) to set better. Go ahead though, I doubt you will do any damage at all, but you may not get the best gas mileage down the road or top performance. Then again, that could all be BS. I have broken cars in over many years differently. Some I followed the manual to the letter, and others I drove them like I stole them on day one. Never had a problem.
 
Ok I see why now makes sense....never had a new car before and I will definetly treat this one like a baby and break it in right!
Different loads at different speeds help all of the parts (rings, pistons, Tranny, etc) to set better. Go ahead though, I doubt you will do any damage at all, but you may not get the best gas mileage down the road or top performance. Then again, that could all be BS. I have broken cars in over many years differently. Some I followed the manual to the letter, and others I drove them like I stole them on day one. Never had a problem.
 
One question. If you wait until later on in the cars life to switch to synthetic oil will it be harmful to the engine. Like lets say around 7 years and the vehicle has around 70k miles on it.
 
My wife's last car ran nearly 13 years on non-synthetic oil, with oil changes every 5000 miles.
My "college" car, a 3-cylinder Geo, also ran nearly 10 years on non-synthetic. Oil changes every 5000 miles or so.
My last car, an Audi, ran with synthetic for nearly 8 years. Tons of issues with that car, the last of which included thousands of dollars to tear apart the engine and clean up everything.

So does that mean synthetic oil is bad? No, it means Audi is bad. But we run non-synthetic in our CX-9, and change it every 5000 miles, which I believe will be just fine. I do run a synthetic in my Mazdaspeed 3, but that's because I think synthetic might be somewhat better for the turbo (the Audi also had 2 turbos, and although everything else broke, those turbos were solid, so I guess synthetic might have helped there).
 
If you check your owners manual for the CX-9 it will tell you that if 5w-20 is not available you can use 5w-30 for an oil change, until your next oil change than use what is recommended. I have the 2007 Model. To add one of the big differences between Synthetic and regular oil, is that synthetic oil does not break down its viscosity so easily and maintains it chemical properties during its range of function, it also will not allow carbon build up inside the engine. Due to these conditions it will also allow you to exceed the oil change intervals, but you should always try to maintain what the Manufacturer states. Keep in mind for those that are not aware, Synthetic oil is used to maintain jet engines not regular oil, this primarily for its work house ability.
 
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I have decided that I will pony up for Fully Synthetic Mobile One at my next oil change. I used 93 octane and Mobile One fully synth in my Passat the whole time I owned it, and at 100k, the engine was still like brand new, even though everything else on that car was broken.
 
I just had an oil change and went full Synthetic at 2 months and 1500 miles. It will ot hurt a thing, and will go on the 6 month or 7,500 miles, which ever comes first, and it will be the time, not the distance. My wifes BMW gets an oil change every 6 months, while the maint schedule calls for 15,000 miles or one year.
 
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