Suspension washer mod writeup/impressions
- Thread starter Matt V
- Start date
I am using MP3 endlinks but that's only because I have the MP3 Racing Beat rear sway bar.
BTW, your ride will be quiet if you're on factory size tires or close to factory size. I have 205/45/17's so that's where a lot of my noise comes from, they have a stiff sidewall.
BTW, your ride will be quiet if you're on factory size tires or close to factory size. I have 205/45/17's so that's where a lot of my noise comes from, they have a stiff sidewall.
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shane02pro5
25ish_psi
- :
- New Caney TX
I have never heard of this until now??...an impact gun on the nuts made sure everything was seated properly. I have never experienced any clunking 
The ManLaw
The Manlaw of Want
- :
- 15cx5 soon 20cx9
I have never heard of this until now??...an impact gun on the nuts made sure everything was seated properly. I have never experienced any clunking
i'd never use an impact gun on my nuts! ohhh you meant the ones on the struts! okay nvm.
Ok so I completely pulled the rear struts out again today to inspect. It was obvious what was wrong, the metal dust shield wasn't even close to being tight against the top mount.
Rule number one don't strong arm the top strut nut when you have spring compressors, I had actually tore some of the threads, very soft. Even with lowered springs, its still too much pressure for the threads and nut, I'm lucky I didn't tear the threads off completely, just 1 at the bottom of the thread. Anyway I put 2 rubber washers, approx. 2mm each between the metal dust shield and the top mount. Then I added to stainless washers under the strut nut. Once I tightened it up its very easy to see if any other washers are needed. Just firmly push down on the mount and if the strut begins to collapse on its stroke it's perfect. You can even grab the metal dust shield and confirm its nice and tight, no slop. Installed new Hardrace end links as well cause I had to cut them off the week before.
Then reinstall. I took the car a quick test drive after doing both struts and ended up taking a 2 hour drive, its absolutely perfect, no rattling, clunking, completely solid.
Have to say one thing with just the new HP's in the rear, can't wait for the front, its a completely different car on the road. I'll take pics of the washers I used to show what I used.
Rule number one don't strong arm the top strut nut when you have spring compressors, I had actually tore some of the threads, very soft. Even with lowered springs, its still too much pressure for the threads and nut, I'm lucky I didn't tear the threads off completely, just 1 at the bottom of the thread. Anyway I put 2 rubber washers, approx. 2mm each between the metal dust shield and the top mount. Then I added to stainless washers under the strut nut. Once I tightened it up its very easy to see if any other washers are needed. Just firmly push down on the mount and if the strut begins to collapse on its stroke it's perfect. You can even grab the metal dust shield and confirm its nice and tight, no slop. Installed new Hardrace end links as well cause I had to cut them off the week before.
Then reinstall. I took the car a quick test drive after doing both struts and ended up taking a 2 hour drive, its absolutely perfect, no rattling, clunking, completely solid.
Have to say one thing with just the new HP's in the rear, can't wait for the front, its a completely different car on the road. I'll take pics of the washers I used to show what I used.
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Opening up this thread again. I put two washers all the way around, and my fronts are much quieter. The rears however are actually noisier over rough pavement, but the single clink when the rear end drops over speed bumps and curbs is gone. Pushing up and down on the rear bumper is actually perfectly quiet now as opposed to the soft clink I could reproduce before.
But I drive over rumble strips every day (I guess for idiots who don't notice the 90 degree turn coming up), and it sounds like someone is shaking cans of change on the top of my struts when I go over them.
Before I put on the washers in the rear, I could actually see the threads end before the top of the washer "metal disk" so I know there was some play before. I think what I did with two washers on top was bring the metal dust shield closer to the top but not tight enough.
Unfortunately, I'll have to take damn struts out of the car again to put rubber washers between the metal dust shield cap like Shasta did, but this is what I'll be doing when I find the time. Having a hard enough time getting my FIC to work and fix our stupid hesitation. If I had $10 for every hour I've put into this car this past 12 months, I could have bought another car by now.
Shasta, did your rubber washer trick work permanently? I am pretty sure this is my problem. By the way, I have an MSP and I have the Tokico HPK installed (both struts and springs). This lowered the car about 1.5" all around. Looks good, but I want these noises gone.
But I drive over rumble strips every day (I guess for idiots who don't notice the 90 degree turn coming up), and it sounds like someone is shaking cans of change on the top of my struts when I go over them.
Before I put on the washers in the rear, I could actually see the threads end before the top of the washer "metal disk" so I know there was some play before. I think what I did with two washers on top was bring the metal dust shield closer to the top but not tight enough.
Unfortunately, I'll have to take damn struts out of the car again to put rubber washers between the metal dust shield cap like Shasta did, but this is what I'll be doing when I find the time. Having a hard enough time getting my FIC to work and fix our stupid hesitation. If I had $10 for every hour I've put into this car this past 12 months, I could have bought another car by now.
Shasta, did your rubber washer trick work permanently? I am pretty sure this is my problem. By the way, I have an MSP and I have the Tokico HPK installed (both struts and springs). This lowered the car about 1.5" all around. Looks good, but I want these noises gone.
This mod doesn't make sense. The top of the strut has a lip, then a washer, then the bushing, then a washer and the top nut. When you tighten the top nut it tightens it onto the top of the strut. It doesn't matter how low or high your car is. It doesn't even matter if you even have a spring. If it's tight, it should be tight. I think you guys have the nut loose, then you take it off, put the washer on and then tighten it when you could have just tightened it. If there is space between the strut mount and the nut, all that would have to happen it you tighten it down. There is nothing stopping the nut from going down the threads.
WhiteMP5Black
Member
- :
- '02 Mazda P5
I just turn my music up. Noise is gone
Doesn't matter how tight you make the nut, you can see the threads end before you are tight against the stock washer. Seems like a manufacturing problem with the struts in my case. The threads should have gone further down the strut, meaning they didn't correctly measure the distance from the lip to the bottom of the threads. It may also be that the bushing has dried out and become thinner, but then I would have had the same problem with my stock struts.
