Spin on oil filter conversion.

[Geeshik]

I just received my spin on conversion kit for our Mazda5. Is there anything I need to know before installing it. I have some time before I put it in because i just did the oil change on it, and I plan on keeping the original setup until the next change. I am pretty excited about this, as I have really tired of dealing with the cartridge filter and the mess/extra time it takes to service over the last 3 years.

The total for the kit with shipping was $93.92. The kit comes with the gasket that goes between the filter housing and the block (part LF02-14-342), the spin-on filter (LF-05-302B), and the new sandwich style filter housing body (L311-14-311A w/ L311 S5209 on casting). Ours has the engine coolant unit that attatches to the top. I have read that sometimes this cooler can be problematic upon removal as the gasket in between it and the filter housing body tears or gets damaged. Is there anything I can do in particular that will prevent that from happening? Also, is there a torque spec for that upper coolant unit and the bolts to the engine block? I want to be very thorough so I don't end up sitting down waiting for more parts if something happens during the replacement. Just in case, what would the part number be for the gasket on top?

It has been said that a Motorcraft FL-400S filter fits this housing as well. It is a little deeper, having more capacity, and is a little more common in many places. I tested this theory tonight, as I have a used one sitting in the trash after just doing the oil change on my 2000 Ford Focus, and the threads are spot-on with the gasket sealing on exactly the same profile as the Mazda filter. Even the numbers (3, 4, and 16) stamped on the inside top of the filter are a match. Now I will only have to stock one filter between the two cars...BONUS! I am curious to see how much farther down it will hang.

So if anyone has a broken stock housing, stripped threads, or whatever, I have a good one. The plastic bottom is a little worn on the outside with some marks on it from previous removals but the threads in it are great. I always oiled the o-rings before installing them, and was careful removing the old o-rings to make sure not to nick the surfaces. The rest of the housing should be just fine once I remove it. Just pay the shipping and it's yours (as soon as i get it off).

 

[Geeshik]

Is the gasket between the cooler and the filter body a part # LF8X-14-702?

 

[Geeshik]

Shoot. I just realized I could have saved quite a bit going with the Ford filter adapter housing: 3S7Z-6881-AA. Oh well...

 

[Silentnoise713]

Done it on two cars. Easy job really. As with all work, be mindful of user/install error. I honestly don't understand how you can destroy the oil cooler seal. The filter base drops down/off the cooler and you don't touch it - unless you do, that’s a different chapter.

$95, even for Mazda parts, seems kinda high but the Ford part would be wiser. AutoExtra (WIX's sister company) offers some dirt cheap filters in 3 sizes, same as Ford. You can mode the base to fit the mega big filter too. I didn’t have time or I would have done it just for kicks and opens up my selection. In fact, I have a large AX filter that you can have if you want to mod the base but it's prob not worth shipping b/c you can buy it for dirt cheap

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...rt-from-cartridge-to-canister-filter-–-Mazda5

 

[Geeshik]

Thanks for the offer, but i will stick with the Motorcraft filters since they are relatively cheap and readily available. I use them on all of my vehicles; my 2000 focus ZTS, my 2003 F150 supercrew, and our 5. Now instead of having to have 3 different filters, I will only have to have 2. You probably have no idea how happy I am that I will never have to deal with the cartridge filter though. : )

 

[Geeshik]

The kit from Mazda was about $75, but the shipping kinda shocked me. It seems like the costs have increased significantly in the last 6 months.

 

[Geeshik]

Tonight, I figured out why it is easy to damage the rubber sealing lip on the gasket in between the filter housing and the sandwich cooler. It looked like the rubber was actually pulling off of its plastic support spacer. It wasn't all of the way off though, so I put some right stuff around the outside near the gaps where it look like the silicone shrank back. I don't know if age does this, heat, or what, but it could be a problem down the road. Maybe this gasket should be considered a maintenance item. I am probably going to order one just to stock it in my personal garage in the event of a failure to reduce down time. If it cracks, I saw a video on youtube that shows it leaks somewhat slowly at least, so you likely won't destroy your engine. Another reason to check your oil levels every time you fill up. Take a peak under the hood at that housing... I know from experience that sandwich coolers are a pain. I had one fail internally in an explorer and mix the engine coolant and the oil, and another one in a Jetta that corroded apart and started leaking coolant everywhere. If it was up to me, my cars wouldn't have them at all, but there are some benefits until they fail and you have to pay the price to replace them.