Ok, 1st of all the parts people say to buy are the correct ones. I got the car last year close to nothing, and since my kid is really bad checking on the oil I had to just do the conversion to get rid off of the oil leak in that area under the oil cooler. Now the car is not dripping more oil, perfect fix.
Watch the video in you tube about it.
2nd, amazon will say the cooler it doesn't work with the Mazda 5 2006, it does.
3rd, do not be cheap and get the Mazda Japanese made cooler, just from looking at the cheapo units it gives me the creeps, the reviews arent great either.
4th, be careful removing the oil pressure sensor, the cable can snap out of the blue. In my case i just put my fingers into the connector and the cable literally fell off in front of my eyes. Frustrating. Went to the store and got the pig tail for the connector, then the problem is how to connect the pig tail because the cable is threaded and really flexible, the cable at the car side looks like a solid cable, really brittle. There's almost no room for soldering also. I tried to use some solder less connectors that did not work because were snapping the cable, making it shorter and shorter. I was thinking in using clamp down butt connectors but at the end went another route.
Wago inline lever nuts, then lot of electrical tape to make the connector sealed from water and humidity. Not a single issue and the car so far after a week is ok.
5th, coolant, get a gallon, you will lose some coolant in the process.
6th. I swapped some of the clamps for the usual ones with a screw, easier for me. I have the tools to deal with the snapping clamps and they just suck!!! sorry.
7th. I got stuck with a heater issue after I restarted the car, looks like was air in the system. Needed to press the gas to get hot air inside of the car. If the car was in idling the temperature was going down. Went for a long ride and clearly the issue went away.
8th, the top internal side bolt is tricky because the old cooler is tad big so you need a socket with an extension that can swivel?? (not sure about this word, sorry, my English isn't too good). You don't need an elbow type of thingy. just needs to clear a few degress off the cooler unit and you will be good to go.
9.. for me was easier to unhook the lines at the other side instead of at the cooler side, once you unhook them you can have more lever to be able to twist the lines out at the cooler side, the black cooler paint acted like glue and if you aren't careful you can puncture the lines with the screwdriver, i used a bicycle spoke and wd40 to work my way around the hose. But this was just me, did it differently than in the videos and instructions.
10th... put all back together and be happy.
Watch the video in you tube about it.
2nd, amazon will say the cooler it doesn't work with the Mazda 5 2006, it does.
3rd, do not be cheap and get the Mazda Japanese made cooler, just from looking at the cheapo units it gives me the creeps, the reviews arent great either.
4th, be careful removing the oil pressure sensor, the cable can snap out of the blue. In my case i just put my fingers into the connector and the cable literally fell off in front of my eyes. Frustrating. Went to the store and got the pig tail for the connector, then the problem is how to connect the pig tail because the cable is threaded and really flexible, the cable at the car side looks like a solid cable, really brittle. There's almost no room for soldering also. I tried to use some solder less connectors that did not work because were snapping the cable, making it shorter and shorter. I was thinking in using clamp down butt connectors but at the end went another route.
Wago inline lever nuts, then lot of electrical tape to make the connector sealed from water and humidity. Not a single issue and the car so far after a week is ok.
5th, coolant, get a gallon, you will lose some coolant in the process.
6th. I swapped some of the clamps for the usual ones with a screw, easier for me. I have the tools to deal with the snapping clamps and they just suck!!! sorry.
7th. I got stuck with a heater issue after I restarted the car, looks like was air in the system. Needed to press the gas to get hot air inside of the car. If the car was in idling the temperature was going down. Went for a long ride and clearly the issue went away.
8th, the top internal side bolt is tricky because the old cooler is tad big so you need a socket with an extension that can swivel?? (not sure about this word, sorry, my English isn't too good). You don't need an elbow type of thingy. just needs to clear a few degress off the cooler unit and you will be good to go.
9.. for me was easier to unhook the lines at the other side instead of at the cooler side, once you unhook them you can have more lever to be able to twist the lines out at the cooler side, the black cooler paint acted like glue and if you aren't careful you can puncture the lines with the screwdriver, i used a bicycle spoke and wd40 to work my way around the hose. But this was just me, did it differently than in the videos and instructions.
10th... put all back together and be happy.
