README: Stock MSP Stereo Warranty / Issues / Upgrades

chuyler1

goes to eleven
:
2013 CX-9
Those of use who have been on the boards for a while are well aware that the stock mazdaspeed protege kenwood stereo components are very unreliable. Don't post another thread about your stock stereo until you have read through the following.

MAZDASPEED PROTEGE STEREO INSTRUCTION MANUAL

Reading the instruction manual goes a long way. If you haven't already, I suggest you do so:
ftp://inform.kenwoodusa.com/MANUALS/KDCX859.pdf

Many of the upgrades and issues below will require you to remove the radio, since the instructions are vague, here's a little help: Removing Stock Radio

MAZDASPEED PROTEGE STEREO WARRANTY

The deck, amp, and subwoofer are covered under the 48mos/48KMi warranty. For any issues with any of them you can take it to the dealer. If they cannot fix it they will order a new part for you. If you are past the warranty period, then take it in anyway. The dealers know that the stereo is a problem area and will usually accomodate you if you are nice about it. If they tell you a part needs to be ordered and you have to pay for it, walk away. Do not pay cash for any of the stock parts. You can find cheaper, better alternative components from aftermarket retailers.

KNOWN ISSUES

My faceplate is stuck open/closed.
Stuck closed: Press the left corner for 3 secs. the face plate will unfold.
Stuck open: Press the reset button on the faceplate on the bottom with a pencil. Others have also claimed that removing and then replacing the fuse on the back of the unit has worked also. If you have no luck, see "replacing the ribbon cable" below.

My display is blank or my buttons don't work.
The ribbon cable is most likely damaged and its only a matter of time before the unit stops working completely. See "replacing the ribbon cable" below.

REPLACING A DAMAGED RIBBON CABLE
If weird stuff is happening to your unit, you may need to replace the ribbon cable. If that sounds a bit complicated then you have two more options. First you can take the deck into the dealership (woah what a novel idea) and if it is covered under warranty they will simply replace it. Second, you can remove the deck, place it behind your rear tire, get in the car, turn it on, put it in reverse, and let the clutch out. Voila, all your stock head unit problems are no more. Now go buy a new head unit and don't f*cking post about the stock one again!

My subwoofer stopped working.
There are three things that could be going wrong.
* First, there is a setting on the Kenwood head unit that will disable the subwoofer. If you hold the most upper left button (the AM button), it will turn NF off (subwoofer), hold it again, it will turn it back on. This only works if the RCA cables were connected to the NF (non-fading) outputs on the back. Some owners have noted that their RCAs were connected to the wrong outputs.
* The second thing wrong could be that the subwoofer is blown. This is very common. If you are still under warranty take the car in for a replacement. If you are past warranty, see replacing my subwoofer below. It is not recommended to buy the same kenwood subwoofer as it will only blow again.
* The final thing that could be wrong is the amplifier is blown. This is less common but it has been known to occur. Again, the dealership can replace it under warranty or you can replace it with an aftermarket amp, see replacing my amplifier below.

There are wires that are not connected behind my radio
This is not an issue but since people ask...There are 3 sets of RCA outputs on the back of the unit: Front, Rear, and NF (non-fading sub). There should be one set of RCA cables connected to the NF outputs and the other two sets should not be connected to anything. The solitary set of RCA wires go to the amplifier in the trunk which powers the subwoofer. The rest of the speaker connections run through the wiring harness and are powered by the head unit's internal amplifier (just like any other radio). If you want to upgrade you may use the other two sets of RCA outputs to send a signal to a separate external amplifier to power your door speakers.

UPGRADE OPTIONS

I want to connect my MP3 Player
Good news, you can easily connect your MP3 Player by simply purchasing the Kenwood CA-C1AUX adapter ($19 at crutchfield.com). If you own an Apple iPod you can use the Kenwood KCA-iP500 instead ($99 at crutchfield.com). The iP500 allows you to control your iPod from the head unit while the C1AUX requires you to continue using your player to change tracks. There have been mixed reviews about the iP500 on this board so do a search before purchasing one.

I want Satelite Radio
Good news, you can easily connect a satelite radio tuner also. For Sirius, use the Sirius SIR-KEN1 adapter ($99 at crutchfield.com) and for XM, use the XM Direct Satellite Radio Pkg ($99 at crutchfield.com). If you want to use satelite radio and your MP3 player, you will need a Y-Adapter from Kenwood.

I want to Add a Disc Changer
You can do that too! Contact Kenwood to find out which changers work with this radio (sorry I don't have models for you).
I want to replace my head unit.
This is a great idea! Almost any single or double din unit will fit in the MSP dash. There is a mounting depth restriction but I don't know the actual depth off the top of my head. The only decks that are a tight fit are the ones with flip out full-screen displays.

I want to replace my speakers.
The front speakers are 6x8" and the rear speakers are 6". You can fit any 5x7" or 6x8" in the front and most 5.25" and 6.5" speakers will also fit with a little custom work. Any 6" speakers will fit in the rear and most 5.25" and 6.5" speakers will also fit with a little custom work. When I say custom work, I mean you will need to create a speaker baffle. For the larger speakers you need to remove the plastic trim along the inside of the door panel with a utility knife.

I want to put speakers in the rear deck.
You cannot put speakers in the rear deck unless you remove the factory subwoofer enclosure. I highly advise against ANY rear speakers whether they are in the doors or the rear deck so I certainly would not avise you to install two sets of rear speakers. If you are itching to burn a hole in your pocket, invest in a set of component speakers for the front.

I want to replace my subwoofer.
There are a small handfull of subwoofers that will drop right into the factory location. The stock kenwood sub is 8 ohms but the stock amp can handle a 4 ohm load so I would suggest buying a 4 ohm subwoofer to increase the amplifier output from 80w to 120w. The main concern when looking for a replacement subwoofer is mounting depth. The JL Audio 8W0-4, and 8W1-4 will fit in perfectly. You won't find a better 8" sub that will fit so I suggest sticking with one of those. An 8W3-4 is another popular choice but it is too deep to drop right in. It will only fit if you make a spacer. If you want something bigger such as a 10" or 12" sub then don't expect to get it to fit in the factory location. You will need a new subwoofer box. If you plan to power said subwoofer with the factory amp look for 4 ohm models rated for 100-250w RMS.

I want to replace my amp.
The stock Kenwood amp (KAC-529S) is rated 40x2 into 4ohms, 80x1 into 8ohms, or 120x1 into 4ohms. I would not recommend upgrading the amp unless you were also upgrading the subwoofer. The stock kenwood sub has enough trouble with the 80w from the stock amp and adding more power will only shorten its lifespan. If you are upgrading to a JL Audio 8W3 or something similar you could install any amp rated at 100-250x1 into 4ohms. Measure the stock mounting location to make sure the amp will fit. I don't have the dimensions on hand.


If I have missed anything, please post it below and I will update this posting with all the correct information. If people still ask these questions, please link them here instead of answering in-line. It will make searching for answers easier.
 
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First, there is a setting on the Kenwood head unit that will disable the subwoofer.

if you hold the most upper left button (the AM button), it will turn NF off (subwoofer), hold it again, it will turn it back on.

This is assuming the headunit was installed correctly from the factory. Mine wasn't. They connected the RCAs going to the stock amp, to the 'rear' rca jack out of the radio. So make sure the rcas are connected to the one labeled 'subwoofer' or 'nf' or 'non filtered', as opposed to front or rear. That way you can also adjust the level of the bass using the NF option under the audio settings.
 
if your headunit goes out and gets stuck half way, pull out the room fuse in the fuse box on the driver`s side and then replace it.
 
another common thing that could happen with the stock subwoofer if it doesn't work is to remove the sub and check if the wires are even connected to the sub. i totally thought i had a blown sub, but it turned out to be just the wires were loose.
 
Ah nice to see the manual, i bought mine used and it came with 3 manuals in 6 different languages, none of which were English(notcool).. so many buttons and options i couldn't go without figuring them out, or not even knowing how to set the channels or displaying the time lol
 
Hey, great thread, thanks. Sub Stopped working after I took the car to a shop. Someone had held the AM button and shut the sub off. I was shopping for subs until I found this!

Thanks again.
 
Plug and play replacement head units

I installed a Kenwood Excelon KDC-X492 CD receiver last night to replace my completely dead (ribbon cable death) stock head unit and it took me all of 10 minutes. The cost was cheap too...110 bucks shipped from Amazon. It was truely plug and play. It even hooked to my very old Sirius tuner ( KTC-SR902 ) with no issues.

So... thought we should start a list of easy/cheap replacement heads for those of us that would like to throw that flipp'n over stock head unit in the lake. (gun)

  • Kenwood Excelon KDC-X492 CD receiver - $110.00
 
chuyler1 said:
The JL Audio 8W0-4, 8W1-4, and 8W3-4 will fit in perfectly.

NO the JL 8W3-4 will NOT FIT!!

I spent $200 on one, got it, and it's too deep to fit in the stock sub enclosure. I had to make my own spacer for it to fit. In the end it worked fine, but it was a real pain in the ass because I read your post first and you said it'd work
 
I said it would work because someone else said it would work. JL has changed the W3 over the past few years so I will update the post.
 
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Kenwood Excelon KDC-X492 CD receiver - $110.00
I just ordered a KDC-X692. They said I'll need to cut / remove the rear support bracket but I checked and it has the same physical dimensions as the KDC-X492. Did you have to do anything like that when you installed yours (or was it like that already)? It doesn't sound like it but I thought I'd ask.

Anyway, I'll know in a couple of days just how easy the install will be.
 
anyone else have any head units to add to the list? currently looking for something to replace my crapped out stocker
 
i figure stick with the kenwood so its just plug and play with the current harness?

I want something that flows with the rest of the interior. I hate seeing a headunit stick out like a sore thumb in a car. Id love a stealth face like the msp has, but those are hard to find these days. CD player and ipod adaptable too. Im not asking too much lol
 
Personally, finding one that has a simple face with amber lights is what I like. Many have configurable colors now so check the specs on the ones you like.
 
The KDC-X692 went right in without a hassle. It actually required less fooling around to get all the cables crammed in the back than the KDC-MP919.

I have to say I'm not a fan of its looks, though. It sounds good and I'll get used to the UI / controls, but it's just way too flashy / shiny for my tastes. Unfortunately, it seems like just about everything's like that these days.

I do like that the face folds down but isn't motorized. The stealthy flip face is nicer (this one doesn't flip around, it just folds down), but at least I won't ever have to worry about a broken ribbon cable again.
 
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OK I have a stock 859 and.....

I bought a 2003.5 at auction on the third time through. The first time it had the stock face plate and it worked fine. Rotated turned on and played well. When I bought it somebody stole the face plate. I bought a used one off of eBay and put it on. No power. No lights nothing. It rotated to the power off position (half way) after about 20 seconds and thats it. If I pull it off it rotates back to the face plate insertion side, not the back plate. I inserted a CD and it was accepted, pulled in, but thats all.

Now I have read about the ribbon deal but I know it worked before (before stolen face plate) which was last week.

How can I figure out if it is a defective face plate or a damaged ribbon? Can I take to a car stereo place for a quick check? Does the fuse in the back oif the unit trip? The car audio/radio fuse checked out OK.

I really want the stock unit to work. I am in Dallas if anyone close can swap the face plate to see if its that.
 
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