Popping noise from front when braking.

[EDM6-zoom zoom]

Man is this a major problem with mazdas or what?
I have that same noise when I turn right or brake.
Right now the car is in the shop, so we will see what they have to say.

 

[gjmoreo]

MeTOO

I Just broke 100k and my Mp3 is doing the same thing. It is very unsafe to drive your car while this continues to be an issue. If that caliper seizes closed while driving; your in a world of trouble. Seems the bottom line is the caliper is going to need to be replaced, along with the rotor and pads if severe damage was done.

In my case, the front driver side caliper was dragging. I 1st noticed a drop in MPG's and extra brake dust. It got to the point that you can noticeably feel the car slow down after letting off the pedal.This creates so much heat you can smell it and the rim will be hot to the touch. The heating and cooling cycles then lead to rotor warp. I noticed the piston would not always release off of the rotor after slight braking, this lead to more caliper bite on my rotor, and more dragging. That lead to brake dust and debris built up between the pad and rotor surface and can caused scaring.
This was all within a week and a half of ''trouble-shooting" while I test drove it here and there. For me this has caused premature wear and irreversible damage. In my case, I have X-drilled rotors & no shop will resurface them. Here in NY its common for winters to be brutal on brake components.

The way I see this is my options are:

A - Go to the stealership and get it replaced with MazdaParts (est.. $1100-$1500+),

B - Take this opportunity to upgrade to a BBK for possibly less. I'd want to replace it all.

C - Remove, inspect, clean/grease & rebuild (if needed) my old caliper.

Any one know of a good place to buy a new big brake kit with all the bells and whistles?

 

[Tom03es]

The heating and cooling cycles then lead to rotor warp.

Not true.

In my case, I have X-drilled rotors & no shop will resurface them.

You shouldn't resurface rotors anyway due to the cemetite buildup in the grain structure of the rotor which will deflect the cutting tool when getting the rotors turned leaving a high spot which leads to a hot spot area and will allow extra pad material to build up at this location...... <phew... run on sentence>

A - Go to the stealership and get it replaced with MazdaParts (est.. $1100-$1500+),

Or you can buy the calipers from an autopart store with a lifetime warranty for about $200, get new rotors and brake pads from where ever you like and easily save yourself tons of money- easier than switching to Geico.

Any one know of a good place to buy a new big brake kit with all the bells and whistles?

www.Protegegarage.com

 

[Johnnyny]

i have the same problem and it drives me nuts i changed the pads and i still have the damn noise any ideas i hope you got it fixes its been like 3 years lol

 

[troyb]

Does anyone have an update on this?

Finally ... I'm not alone !

I get this repeating popping/clunking/scraping noise only when I break lightly and at low speeds while coming to a stop. This is the ONLY time the noise happens. If it rains, the noise goes away. If I brake hard, or don't use the brakes, there's no noise.

I've been to mechanics and nobody was able to figure it out for sure (although they had some theories like CV joints, etc ... but I don't think they make sense).

I've been searching everywhere on the internet for an answer, and I was beginning to think that I'm the only one with this problem until I found this thread ...

If you had this problem and found the cure, please share your findings. Was it the rust on the rotors as some said here? Calipers?

My problem is identical to yours Helius. I have a 2007 Mazda 6 with 47,000 miles. On the highway or when it rains I do not hear the noise, but making slow turns results in a clicking/popping noise that I can feel on the floor board and steering wheel.

For me the noise began after replacing the tires. I first thought it was a tire rubbing when I turned, but that was not the case. I brought the car back to the shop I bought the tires and they checked CV joints etc. and found nothing.

If anyone has any information on this problem please let us know. Thanks!

 

[mckernan]

Sounds like it can also be a wheel bearing. It is not uncommon.
Do not try to change it yourself unless you have the right tools (Mazda special tools).

Check the manual in section 3-11.

no way, i just had to change 3 that all went at the same time....sigh.

you can tell, i did a test run after each wheel and it makes the car sound like an airplane at all times, the sound got lessandless after each change untill like 3 days ago when the last one got done and it sounds new again.

800$ later.

 

[John Hudak]

2000 Protege Popping Noise

I had some different symptoms: Hear infrequent popping noise when accelerating or decelerating. Also, if you listen very carefully you can hear a soft rattle noise under the same conditions. Sometimes hear rattle after going over small bumps.

My mechanic found the problem: replace the front stabilizer bar link. It is about 8-9 inches long with a socket mounted bolt on both ends. One bolt was mounted looser than the other, otherwise it looked fine. Both bolts need to be stiff in their mounts! Now there is no noise at all!

GOOD LUCK

 

[vltndennis]

sorry to bring this back up but i replaced the pads , calipers , lower control arms ,shocks , inner and outer tie rods and sway bar links about a year ago and i could never get rid of the noise when coming to a stop. Anyone tried replacing the calipers?