The above diagram pretty much lays it out.
CX-5 Brake noise after replacing rotors and pads
- Thread starter bluefire_xl
- Start date
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- 2013 CX5 GT
Got it. did not notice that. it seems i have to grease under the hardware plate as well if i am reading it correctly.
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- Plano, Texas, USA
I’m with you. But it’s the same on Gen-1 CX-5 Workshop Manual (⑫ dust boot in the diagram) including that rubber “bushing” ⑪ on lower caliper pin mentioned above should get replaced:
Front:
Rear:
If those rubber parts aren’t expense (@bluefire_xl can tell us) and available, I would just replace them at the same time doing the brake job.
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- Plano, Texas, USA
Never asked. What MY and trim is your CX-5？
Yeah, it's in my head now, so next time will get the work over.
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- 2013 CX5 GT
2013 GT
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- 2013 CX5 GT
Cant remember the price but it was not expensive. Though I got another non oem brand. Rubber seems ok.
just fyi, you really don't need to replace the rubber collar on the slide pin. plus, it's not available just by itself. it only comes with the full caliper assembly. I know because I stripped the threads on the slide pin and when I ordered a replacement the parts dept guy said to save the collar from the one I had because he can't get one on its own
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- Plano, Texas, USA
Like I said in the beginning, it’s Mazda Workshop Manual calling for the caliper pin dusk boot replacement. And just checked for my 2016 CX-5 and it’s actually available in a caliper seal kit, p/n: K0Y1-33-26Z, the #11 in the diagram. But for $84.25 with additional caliper piston seals I don’t need that seems to be a no-go to me!
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- Plano, Texas, USA
So when you order the caliper pin, #12 or #14 upper / lower guide in above parts diagram, it doesn’t come with the rubber dust boot and/or rubber “bushing” on lower guide?
When I did my brakes I got new pins and rubber accordion type pin boots locally at Autozone (Advance Auto was a lot more expensive). Pins (w/bolts) were less than $10 and boots ~$5. I only replaced pins on the front as I bought them because I snapped one of the pin retaining bolts and the pin kit includes them so might as well use them. The rears just got new rubber pin boots. The pins had no wear ,just a little discoloration with plating still intact so they got reused. I had to reuse that little rubber "band" from the old pins. The aftermarket pin boots weren't identical to the OEM and required a little more "finessing" to install.
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- Plano, Texas, USA
Wow, people had better be careful when they’re doing the slide pins on CX-5!
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- Plano, Texas, USA
Thanks for the info! At least now I know where I can get the caliper rubber dust boot if it becomes aged. Not going to pay $85 for it!
Mazda lists torque in 3 different units. I jotted down the 30-39 number thinking it was ft-lbs (it's actually Nm) and overtorqued and snapped the bolt off in the pin. I should have used the 23-28 ft-lbs shown in parentheses. It was one of those times I should have followed my instincts as I was torqueing the bolt and saying to myself " man that's a lot of torque for that little bolt, that's a lot of torque" Snap! Duh! LOL
$84.25 for a seal kit. Mazda's dreamin'.
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- 2023 CX-5 2.5 Turbo AWD Auto
RIP 8/23:2013 CX-5 Sport FWD Auto 120k
You’re not alone. The first time I used my 3/8” harbor freight torque wrench, I learned the hard way it doesn’t make a nice “CLINK” sound like its 1/2” big brother I used numerous times. I was tightening the same bolt and was thinking huh, if I didn’t know any better I’d say that’s too…. Righty tighty no longer providing resistance… whomp whomp.
I still use that torque wrench but I need to replace it. The handle gives at the correct torque but doesn’t make an audible noise like it’s supposed to.
Please don't take offense, but I see this so much that I have to comment on it. I've seen numerous people comment about overtorqueing due to not hearing the click. The important thing to look for (actually feel for) is when the wrench "breaks away, releases, goes over center" whatever you want to call it, as that's when preset torque is reached as the internal mechanism releases. With background noise and/ or a wrench with a quiet release/ barely audible click you can get in trouble waiting to hear the click. The small in-lb TW's can be almost silent. I've noticed my TW's get quieter and smoother as they wear in.
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- 2023 CX-5 2.5 Turbo AWD Auto
RIP 8/23:2013 CX-5 Sport FWD Auto 120k
None taken at all! Thats the life experience I had to set just that habit. Thankfully Autozone down the street had a replacement bolt in stock that day. Could have sucked way worse, so always need to pay close attention to the wrench doing that little fold when it hits the right torque. Its little 1/4” brother from harbor freight works great just like the 1/2”, I just got a bum 3/8” wrench. It’s always worked without the audible noise so I haven’t bothered to replace it all of these years lol!
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- Plano, Texas, USA
You have a 2013 CX-5 and you should use 2 different brake greases in the areas based on the diagram in post #23.
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- Plano, Texas, USA
I really don’t like the torque “range” given by the Mazda manual. Others give only a single number, no guessing.
So in the example of the bolt to caliper pin / guide, 30 ~ 39 N-m / 23 ~ 28 ft-lbf, I really don’t think the bolt should snap that easy at 30 or 34.5 ft-lbf (usually I just use the median from given torque range) if its maximum torque limit is 28 ft-lbf.
