Looking for some help with a 2018 CX-5

Hello all, new to the forums looking for some help.


The past 2 weekends that I have drove my car, out of no where my 2018 cx-5 has what seemed like it lost complete power for a second and then all the lights on my dash came on and then turned off except the check engine light and traction control light stayed on, also my forward Smart City Brake System/ Smart Brake System/ Front Radar Sensor System Malfunction were showing, and lastly when I would try to accelerate it would slowly build rpm’s as if it didn’t want to go anywhere. I also put it in manual and it didn’t show anything in the gear box and wouldn't shift either way.

So for the first weekend it happened I pulled over, turned the car off and back on and everything went away except my check engine and traction control light. Got home the next day I turned the car on everything was gone.

Second weekend same thing happens but now when I go to turn my car on it struggles to start, my rpm meter doesn’t light up for a second, the needle doesn’t move for a second, it sits at a slightly higher rpm when idle ( I live in NY so maybe just the cold?) and the check engine light has stayed on.

Hope this is thorough enough to give some insight, but not a drag to read lol. I appreciate your time, thank you!
 
You need to get someone to read whatever error codes the ECU has thrown so that they can determine what the problem is related to. Much of what you're describing is normal when there is an error and the dash lights up like the proverbial Christmas tree. The sluggishness you describe is the engine going into "limp home mode" in order to prevent any major damage to the drivetrain. That's normal too, as is everything going back to normal (temporarily) when you shut off the engine and restart.
 
Does it have the original battery? Could be time for a new one.

Stop by an auto parts store and have them hook up a code reader and find out what error codes are stored.
 
My top three guesses..
1. Battery
2. BCM
3. ABS sensor

Start with #1 if it has never been replaced as HyFlyer suggested. Low cost.
I suggest replacing the battery every 3-4 years max -- due to all thats connected to the electrical functions= PCM.TCM etc -- its like avionics in an airplane --- vital to just about everything --
 
Does it have the original battery? Could be time for a new one.

Stop by an auto parts store and have them hook up a code reader and find out what error codes are stored.
My top three guesses..
1. Battery
2. BCM
3. ABS sensor

Start with #1 if it has never been replaced as HyFlyer suggested. Low cost.
I suggest replacing the battery every 3-4 years max -- due to all thats connected to the electrical functions= PCM.TCM etc -- its like avionics in an airplane --- vital to just about everything --
Thank you for the feed back, it is the original battery. I plan on calling the dealership to get it diagnosed and will replace the battery either way. I appreciate all the help!!
 
Thank you for the feed back, it is the original battery. I plan on calling the dealership to get it diagnosed and will replace the battery either way. I appreciate all the help!!
Dealership will cost you maximum money needlessly. Unless you are okay with that and just would prefer a dealership, Costco, Sam's club, Walmart would be good choices for battery replacement.
 
Dealership will cost you maximum money needlessly. Unless you are okay with that and just would prefer a dealership, Costco, Sam's club, Walmart would be good choices for battery replacement.
I do like the receipts of getting serviced at the dealership and some comfortability, but are you saying as in buy one and put it in myself?
 
I do like the receipts of getting serviced at the dealership and some comfortability, but are you saying as in buy one and put it in myself?
Those three will install the battery for you (usually free with purchase).
 
Dealership will cost you maximum money needlessly. Unless you are okay with that and just would prefer a dealership, Costco, Sam's club, Walmart would be good choices for battery replacement.
Yes. Costco is good - and the others - the fewer times the " dealer " gets their hands on your car the better - its a no brainer. ~if issue not solved - go to next possibility - still need a good battery - I suggest learning to DIY - then you are that much better off and less dependent -
 
Get something like this: LIHAN Car Charger Extension Cigarette Lighter Adapter, Socket Plug Splitter 3 USB Ports,12V/24V Automobile Outlet with Voltage Meter, Compatible with iPhone 15,14,13,12,iPad, Samsung (Black) https://a.co/d/f6AizVD

put it in your 12v port in the center console. See what it says with the car off and on. This will give an indicator of battery condition and if your alternator is working. Your battery is likely due for replacement, but if the alternator isn’t charging it, you’d be throwing good money after bad. Local auto parts stores can also diagnose alternator and battery issues for free.
 
Get something like this: LIHAN Car Charger Extension Cigarette Lighter Adapter, Socket Plug Splitter 3 USB Ports,12V/24V Automobile Outlet with Voltage Meter, Compatible with iPhone 15,14,13,12,iPad, Samsung (Black) https://a.co/d/f6AizVD

put it in your 12v port in the center console. See what it says with the car off and on. This will give an indicator of battery condition and if your alternator is working. Your battery is likely due for replacement, but if the alternator isn’t charging it, you’d be throwing good money after bad. Local auto parts stores can also diagnose alternator and battery issues for free.

I'm not 100% sure but doesn't the 12vdc port turn off when the car is off? I've not tried to use it with the car off, but I thought that it shut off with the car.

Good advice on the troubleshooting though.
 
I do like the receipts of getting serviced at the dealership and some comfortability, but are you saying as in buy one and put it in myself?

You'll get receipts wherever you go.

Are you able to install the battery yourself? If so, you should.

Check the condition of the battery terminals. Are they nice and clean? Are they tight?

Do you have a multimeter? If you do, then you can do some simple troubleshooting yourself before you buy a battery.

With the car off, check the voltage of the battery. It should read somewhere in the vicinity of 12.5vdc.

Now start the car and check the voltage again. If your alternator is working, it should read over 14vdc. For this test you should turn off any seat heaters or other things such as this. Not 100% necessary but you'll get a better idea of what the alternator is doing.
 
You'll get receipts wherever you go.

Are you able to install the battery yourself? If so, you should.

Check the condition of the battery terminals. Are they nice and clean? Are they tight?

Do you have a multimeter? If you do, then you can do some simple troubleshooting yourself before you buy a battery.

With the car off, check the voltage of the battery. It should read somewhere in the vicinity of 12.5vdc.

Now start the car and check the voltage again. If your alternator is working, it should read over 14vdc. For this test you should turn off any seat heaters or other things such as this. Not 100% necessary but you'll get a better idea of what the alternator is doing.
That is true.

I can do the battery myself, honestly I just never thought to do it. With all the feed back I’m realizing, I might have jumped to conclusion with it being a bigger problem than it is? Seeing as the car is 5 basically 6 years old and *crosses fingers* it just needs a new battery.

So I plan on just going the local auto parts store to get a free diagnose, and new battery regardless.
 
That is true.

I can do the battery myself, honestly I just never thought to do it. With all the feed back I’m realizing, I might have jumped to conclusion with it being a bigger problem than it is? Seeing as the car is 5 basically 6 years old and *crosses fingers* it just needs a new battery.

So I plan on just going the local auto parts store to get a free diagnose, and new battery regardless.

So, you don't have a multimeter? You should get one they're not expensive and are very useful in lots of applications.
 
So, you don't have a multimeter? You should get one they're not expensive and are very useful in lots of applications.
Sorry, no I don’t have one. I just might have to invest and get a OBD scanner too. Seems like a sign to start dipping my toes in the auto mechanics world.

Any recommendations? Or they all just about the same?
 
I'm partial to Fluke meters but they're not cheap.

This one will do for a basic meter. You're not going to get a Fluke for less than this.


It won't measure current, but you won't need that ability here.
I've been using this for battery testing and it's been great:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)

And I keep it in this case:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)

For everything else, I have this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)
 
I've been using this for battery testing and it's been great:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)

And I keep it in this case:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)

For everything else, I have this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)

Those all look like they would do the job.

Like I said, I'm partial to the Fluke brand (retired engineer). Over the years I've collected 3 handhelds and one bench top DMM by Fluke along with one B&K Precision clamp on DMM. All still work perfectly.
 
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