Killer Stumble at 4000 RPM

adzamzoom

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2003 Mazdaspeed Protege,1999 Protege ES and 2000 Mazda MPV ES
Help! I have an intermittent stumble at 4000 RPM. The car will jerk as if it has hit a brick wall for a split second and then continue on as normal. The strange thing is it only happens randomly and I do not have any check engine light. Does anyone have any idea? The dealer "can't find anything wrong" and they have replaced the O2 sensors, plugs, wires and re-flashed the ECU. Could this be a bad BOV? Thanks!
 
Sounds like you've experience hesitation my friend... Does it do it only when you're hard on the accelerator and then off it fast when you're shifting? :p Get your ECU flashed or an Air/Fuel controller. There's a specific thread about this on the forums.
 
It hapens, as you have stated as well as lifting lightly off the gas to avoid hitting slower trafic and if you stay on the gas above 5000 RPM I only get a mild hesatation at 3500, 4000, and 4500 RPM. I have a stock ECU and it was flashed 2 days ago at the Mazda dealer along with an o2 sensor
 
The brick wall at 4k rpms is your car going into open loop and maxing out the injectors. When your duty cycle hits 100% from the PCM it cuts spark. Not fuel. Everyone calls this fuel cut, but it is actually ignition cut. Anyone who disagrees with me can put a scope on pins 74, 75, 100, 101 and pull their WGA line and watch what happens when they overboost.

As soon as ignition is cut the MAF isn't reading nearly as much air and the car can continue on its merry way. There is actually a little spike in boost just before the wastegate opens and can cause the car to reach spark cut. The first couple hundred rpm of open loop are also programmed to be excessively rich to safeguard against negative short term fuel trims. I've seen my car go into the 9s completely stock.

If your car is completely stock the most likely reason you would hit cut is because your WGA is bad. Take the vacuum line from your WGA and follow it back and pull it from the T and blow in it. If you can blow through your WGA, it needs to be replaced. The diaphragm is rubber and over time will lose its seal with the housing.

I had this happen around 50k miles and replaced it with the ATP one from PG and it's been solid for the past 26k miles.
 
My exhaust manifold has a couple of nice cracks in it and the WGA could also be contributing... well not currently because now there is a giant hole in the back of the block... but before it did the same thing....
 
I installed an FMIC and SSAFC in my car and it runs like it should so that's what I recommend and was recomended to me. Also properly gapped correct plugs, good coil packs and Milennia S PCV.
 
I'm having the same problem. The kicker tho is I have a ssafc, brand new ATP wga, and fmic with relocated maf...
 
So I talked to Mark from split second. He recommended that I check the vacuum line running to the unit. He said 90% of complaints are due to that line. However my issue is that other 10%...
 
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