Just arrived - 2017 GT AWD Eternal Blue

[skm3489]

Picked it up Friday. Traded in my '14 V6 6MT Accord Coupe.

Love the car and the color - it looks so much better in person than in color guide. Dealer threw in illuminated door sills, all weather floor mats, chrome bumper protector, and fancy valve stem caps. We had planned on waiting until y/e but he gave a such great price on my trade that I basically got what I would have sold it for privately which was effectively retail with the tax effect. He also gave 20% off on the rubber cargo mat and retractable cargo cover. We thought we wanted the roof rails since our friends just installed them on their new Silver CX5 and they looked great. The dealer set them on top of our car so my wife could see what it looked like but it seemed a bit too blingy with the Eternal Blue so we didn't get it.

We like everything about the car - looks, fit and finish, quietness, and ride quality. It rides smoother than my Honda which had 18" wheels. The power is fine except when you hit a steep hill it struggles slightly but it's more than adequate.

I checked the oil level today and it was down maybe 1/8th on dipstick so I topped off with M1 0W-20. It had 62 miles when we bought it and has 282 now. Am hoping the factory just didn't top it off as I'm not aware of oil consumption on these engines? Will keep an eye on it though.

This is our 8th Mazda and all them have been trouble free so we are hoping this will keep up the tradition!

Will post pics soon..

 

[yrwei52]

⋯ I checked the oil level today and it was down maybe 1/8th on dipstick so I topped off with M1 0W-20. It had 62 miles when we bought it and has 282 now. Am hoping the factory just didn't top it off as I'm not aware of oil consumption on these engines? Will keep an eye on it though.

This has been discussed before. Mazda seems to under-fill many fluids from factory - engine oil、engine coolant、gear lubricant in rear differential、and even the ATF. Mine had low engine oil and coolant levels on our special-ordered CX-5 with 3 miles on odometer. I should check the levels on ATF and rear differential gear lub but too lazy to do it. Several members had checked these two fluids and they also reported low. I actually checked several brand-new CX-5's at my dealer after I found low fluids and found ALL of them were having low oil and coolant from factory. Either Mazda is trying to save pennies and filling these fluids low, or they just think these fluids don't need to be filled to the "Full" mark!

I had the same concern like you worried about the excessive oil consumption at beginning as the oil level was low. I bought Mazda moly oil at the time to top off the oil, as it's been proven from UOA that the factory oil has very high content of molybdenum. And I had my dealer to top off my coolant with Mazda FL22 coolant several months later. I'm not a fan of mixing different brand of oil or fluid together.

Make sure to turn on your oil life monitor by setting up your "Oil Change" maintenance schedule to "Flexible", and do your first oil change after at least 5,000 miles. If you DIY changing your own oil, you'll find filling in factory specified 4.8 quarts of oil can only bring up the oil level to about ⅔ between the Add and Full marks of the dipstick. People normally use 5 quarts fresh oil but even that still won't reach the Full mark!

Congrats!

 

[yrwei52]

BTW, after 19,800 miles our CX-5 burns about between Add and Full marks of the oil each time I change the oil at 5K ~ 6K-mile interval. The worst is the first oil change it used almost a full quart. But for SkyActiv-G gasoline engines, we should worry more about oil dilution issue which would cause oil level rising. So far it's rare and only happens in cold weather based on member's reports.

 

[Anchorman]

I'm not convinced they underfill at the works. If I add the specified amount after an oil change, it never goes to the top line on the stick. My guess is that the factory will be using very accurate equipment to meter the oil and fluids. My new CX-3 I had was down on coolant but I've rebuilt dozens of engines and spent ages trying to vent the cooling system and it always goes down a bit. If the oil is down by an 1/8, not an issue. If the coolant is down, the dealer didn't do the checks properly.

 

[Anchorman]

BTW, after 19,800 miles our CX-5 burns about between Add and Full marks of the oil each time I change the oil at 5K ~ 6K-mile interval. The worst is the first oil change it used almost a full quart. But for SkyActiv-G gasoline engines, we should worry more about oil dilution issue which would cause oil level rising. So far it's rare and only happens in cold weather based on member's reports.

I'm aware that diesels dilute but can't immediately figure out why petrols do. I know you're not the first to say it but what's happening?

 

[skm3489]

YRW, thanks for your comments. I'm glad that this is the norm from Mazda and not a consumption issue. I'll check the antifreeze level too. Curious, how much is the Mazda 0-20? I thought I read in the manual that they recommend Castrol. I do like to DYI but I haven't crawled under the car yet. Is it fairly easy or is there a cover underneath? Is the oil filter a canister type? Re the dilution issue, I thought that was only with the diesels?

Anchorman, thanks as well
Thanks

 

[Anchorman]

I have a pit but work off ramps. The filter is a screw on canister (or ir certainly was on the 2016) and is under a nice big removable panel next to the sump plug. It's as easy as you'll get.

 

[Xeler8ing]

The power is fine except when you hit a steep hill it struggles slightly but it's more than adequate.

Try and use sport mode, will keep it in the power zone

 

[yrwei52]

YRW, thanks for your comments. I'm glad that this is the norm from Mazda and not a consumption issue. I'll check the antifreeze level too. Curious, how much is the Mazda 0-20? I thought I read in the manual that they recommend Castrol. I do like to DYI but I haven't crawled under the car yet. Is it fairly easy or is there a cover underneath? Is the oil filter a canister type? Re the dilution issue, I thought that was only with the diesels?

Owner's manual recommends Mazda genuine and Castrol 0W-20 GF-5 oils. But the Mazda moly oil is the one available at Mazda dealer and it's relatively inexpensive. My dealer charges $10 extra for each oil change and you can get an oil change kit with Mazda moly oil、OEM filter、and drain plug aluminum washer from our sponsor Med Center Mazda for low price if you can DIY. It's easy to do the oil change on CX-5, remove 3 fasternetd to open a cover and everything are there. I have made a 3-layer 2X10 wood stack to drive up and raise the front a bit as the oil change location is deep. I'm also getting OEM filter, it's old-fashioned canister type, as the the specs are different from most aftermarket filters. See this thread for details:

CX-5 Oil Change with Filter

As for oil dilution issue on SA-G gasoline engines, see this thread:

2.5L Oil level fluctuation

And Mazda moly oil:

And your oil filter:

Actually there's a newer PE01-14-302B oil filter in Japan used in 2017 CX-5. Not sure if this revised "B" version Japanese made oil filter would be available in the US?

View attachment 216907

 

[madar]

Picked it up Friday. Traded in my '14 V6 6MT Accord Coupe.

Love the car and the color - it looks so much better in person than in color guide. Dealer threw in illuminated door sills, all weather floor mats, chrome bumper protector, and fancy valve stem caps. We had planned on waiting until y/e but he gave a such great price on my trade that I basically got what I would have sold it for privately which was effectively retail with the tax effect. He also gave 20% off on the rubber cargo mat and retractable cargo cover. We thought we wanted the roof rails since our friends just installed them on their new Silver CX5 and they looked great. The dealer set them on top of our car so my wife could see what it looked like but it seemed a bit too blingy with the Eternal Blue so we didn't get it.

We like everything about the car - looks, fit and finish, quietness, and ride quality. It rides smoother than my Honda which had 18" wheels. The power is fine except when you hit a steep hill it struggles slightly but it's more than adequate.

I checked the oil level today and it was down maybe 1/8th on dipstick so I topped off with M1 0W-20. It had 62 miles when we bought it and has 282 now. Am hoping the factory just didn't top it off as I'm not aware of oil consumption on these engines? Will keep an eye on it though.

This is our 8th Mazda and all them have been trouble free so we are hoping this will keep up the tradition!

Will post pics soon..

Make sure you check oil when your engine is hot. Level will be a little lower when it's cold. And yes, you might have some consumption until the engine gets broken in.

 

[jetydosa]

Congrats and yes we need pics!

 

[yrwei52]

I'm not convinced they underfill at the works. If I add the specified amount after an oil change, it never goes to the top line on the stick. My guess is that the factory will be using very accurate equipment to meter the oil and fluids. My new CX-3 I had was down on coolant but I've rebuilt dozens of engines and spent ages trying to vent the cooling system and it always goes down a bit. If the oil is down by an 1/8, not an issue. If the coolant is down, the dealer didn't do the checks properly.

Yeah I understand ⅛、、⅓ low from Full mark is fine. But like OP our experience from a brand new car is all fluids are filled at Full mark in factory, not in between. Worse, the specs on these fluid capacity, such as engine oil、rear differential gear lubricant、and may be ATF are also incorrect. They're not as pinpoint accurate like the specs on my Honda CR-V or other vehicles I've owned. This makes people feel like Mazda doesn't pay too much attention on accuracy.

 

[yrwei52]

I'm aware that diesels dilute but can't immediately figure out why petrols do. I know you're not the first to say it but what's happening?

Here's my 2 bits since I'm the one who started this thread.
This issue is only present if you live in a cold climate. Starting and idling the vehicle, longer warm up times, all add to the problem.
I've done a few oil samples and the winter months are terrible (as high as 11% fuel contamination). During the spring/summer the oil does not move up or down and the sample has been tested fine.
During the winter, my oil level definitely rises, I have tried blocking part of the rad off. Tried running premium fuel. So far anything I try does not help the problem.

The only fix I found is to NOT check the oil.

(whistle)

 

[Unobtanium]

What did you get for the Accord? I am seriously contemplating EXACTLY that model/similar year to replace my CX5 with if I don't end up buying a house too far off paved roads. Better mileage, and a TON more fun and much nicer, blah blah blah is my impression of them. Would love to know what real-world trade in is on them.


As far as oil consumption, my Z06 burned 1/2 a quart in 500 miles when I first got it. Then it completely stopped. Seating the rings, etc. is "real", IMO

 

[yrwei52]

Make sure you check oil when your engine is hot. Level will be a little lower when it's cold. And yes, you might have some consumption until the engine gets broken in.

I believe most people check oil level when engine is cold or the first thing in the morning. If you check oil level when engine is hot, make sure to wait at least 10 minutes for hot oil draining back to oil pan after the engine is turned off.

I'm not too happy to see some oil consumption from my CX-5, using quarts per 5K miles, at 19,800 miles on odometer although it has improved since new. My 178K-mile 1998 Honda CR-V uses less oil than my CX-5 right now, and burns no oil at all when it was new. I guess my particular 2.5L is one of the inferior engines manufactured and it should explain why my MPG is not too good either.

 

[Xeler8ing]

I believe most people check oil level when engine is cold or the first thing in the morning.

Correct. It is part of my once a month maintenance of what ever vehicle I own

 

[madar]

I believe most people check oil level when engine is cold or the first thing in the morning. If you check oil level when engine is hot, make sure to wait at least 10 minutes for hot oil draining back to oil pan after the engine is turned off.

I'm not too happy to see some oil consumption from my CX-5, using quarts per 5K miles, at 19,800 miles on odometer although it has improved since new. My 178K-mile 1998 Honda CR-V uses less oil than my CX-5 right now, and burns no oil at all when it was new. I guess my particular 2.5L is one of the inferior engines manufactured and it should explain why my MPG is not too good either.

I always check mine hot after a 10 minute shut down, if you check it cold there's a tendency to top it off and then you have an overfill when it's hot. Still using the moly? My '14 didn't like the moly, liked to burn it a little whenever I used it. When I used Mobile 1 or PP oil usage stopped.

 

[Kedis82ZE8]

Not seeing any noticeable oil consumption on mine. I am changing at about 4K miles to stay under 6 month requirement. I still have the weep leak in other thread I need to address with dealer but that may be from AT as well.

 

[Unobtanium]

I believe most people check oil level when engine is cold or the first thing in the morning. If you check oil level when engine is hot, make sure to wait at least 10 minutes for hot oil draining back to oil pan after the engine is turned off.

I'm not too happy to see some oil consumption from my CX-5, using quarts per 5K miles, at 19,800 miles on odometer although it has improved since new. My 178K-mile 1998 Honda CR-V uses less oil than my CX-5 right now, and burns no oil at all when it was new. I guess my particular 2.5L is one of the inferior engines manufactured and it should explain why my MPG is not too good either.

Honestly, that's just fine. That little bit could be being sucked through the pcv. That's honestly nothing. I wouldn't stress.

 

[murky]

I always check mine hot after a 10 minute shut down, if you check it cold there's a tendency to top it off and then you have an overfill when it's hot. Still using the moly? My '14 didn't like the moly, liked to burn it a little whenever I used it. When I used Mobile 1 or PP oil usage stopped.

I wouldn't add oil unless I was using or losing it too fast to stay above the low mark before my next change - plus some margin. I'd probably be shopping for a next car if I had to add oil between changes.