JosueP5's '03 Protege5 Build Thread.

Problem with the FS is that you could get a strong running motor with 150k on it... or you could find an absolute turd with 30k. It's extremely random. There seems to be no real pattern as to when they fail and when they're great. Hell, mine should have puked many times over, but is still ticking and still getting steady 30+ mpg.
 
What would you guys recommend I do to a used motor before installing? I'd like to "freshen" it up as much as possible while it's out and easily accessible. And I guess if I did that to a higher mileage motor, it should be good for a while, but I understand the random aspect of it.
 
What would you guys recommend I do to a used motor before installing? I'd like to "freshen" it up as much as possible while it's out and easily accessible. And I guess if I did that to a higher mileage motor, it should be good for a while, but I understand the random aspect of it.

If you got Evan's motor, I'd probably just do the timing belt and water pump, along with new fluids, plugs, wires, etc (basic stuff). If you got another motor, I'd personally want to do almost a complete overhaul, but by the same token, I'd never put an FS back in, lol. Too much work, and too many unknowns/risks. I'm swapping mine to a KL, god willing.
 
What's your definition of a "complete overhaul" then? Total rebuild? The thought crossed my mind of a rebuild on this motor, but I don't know any reputable shops, and I imagine it'd be pretty costly and time consuming by the time it was all said and done.
 
I don't think it would hurt to get an estimate for a rebuild of the current motor. It would at least give you some options.

I haven't had personal experience with them, but I've heard good things about R&R Engine and Machine. http://www.rrengine.com/
 
Yeah, basically. I'm not an expert, by any means, but this is the only article I can remember reading about the oil burning issue. It sounds like new rings and valve seals would clear it up, but it could easily be a cost-prohibitive, or time-prohibitive job if you do it yourself and need it in a hurry.

http://www.mazda626.net/topic/14223-smoking-tail-pipe/

The thing about rebuilding your current motor is that it could have any number of boost-related issues that a normal N/A motor wouldn't likely see, such as bent rod(s), which could jack up the cost a good deal, I'd imagine. Again, just my thoughts.
 
I don't think it would hurt to get an estimate for a rebuild of the current motor. It would at least give you some options.

I haven't had personal experience with them, but I've heard good things about R&R Engine and Machine. http://www.rrengine.com/

I know where that's at, might give 'em a shout just to see what they'd say.

The thing about rebuilding your current motor is that it could have any number of boost-related issues that a normal N/A motor wouldn't likely see, such as bent rod(s), which could jack up the cost a good deal, I'd imagine. Again, just my thoughts.

I could see this being an issue. I guess a teardown is the 1st step.
 
Well... my first big question is "Does it run as is?"
 
Yes, runs and drives. It was making the knocking/ticking noise SUPER loud on Sunday when Kevin was over checking it out. Then, yesterday at lunch I brought a friend from work over to see the car, and it didn't make the noise? Still was missing and just overall sounded like crap though. lol The only thing different was, there was oil splashing out of the valve cover because it wasn't tight, so I tightened the front 4 bolts.
 
Did you happen to see any movement in the spark plug wires? It sounds odd but the reason I ask is because number 3 plug backed itself out on my MSM once. The entire plug and plug wire were jumping up and down, making a loud ticking noise. I'd have to hear it to have any better idea. Could be piston slap, rod knock... etc.
 
I'll have to look for that tonight. It's got some fancy Nology wires on it with what looks like a little ground strap on them.

The noise was weird, sometimes it sounded like the top end, sometimes you'd think it was bottom...
 
Ok... first thing's first...


DITCH THE WIRES! Best wires for this motor are the OEM wires and coils. Sounds odd, but it's true.
 
I'll have to look for that tonight. It's got some fancy Nology wires on it with what looks like a little ground strap on them.

The noise was weird, sometimes it sounded like the top end, sometimes you'd think it was bottom...

sounds maybe like a rod, but I am by no means an expert. Just a guess.
 
I'll have to look for that tonight. It's got some fancy Nology wires on it with what looks like a little ground strap on them.

The noise was weird, sometimes it sounded like the top end, sometimes you'd think it was bottom...

Ok... first thing's first...


DITCH THE WIRES! Best wires for this motor are the OEM wires and coils. Sounds odd, but it's true.

I've always wanted a set of Nology Hotwires. I've never really heard anything bad about them. I've heard there more of an appearance upgrade than anything else.
 
You got it.

I don't know if the coils are part of these wires, or if they're factory. He did say he had to relocate them to the passanger strut tower because of the heat from the Turbo.
 
Que? I know a lot of much higher pressure cars that never had to do that... I've never heard that reasoning.

Here's one example...

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