Problem with the FS is that you could get a strong running motor with 150k on it... or you could find an absolute turd with 30k. It's extremely random. There seems to be no real pattern as to when they fail and when they're great. Hell, mine should have puked many times over, but is still ticking and still getting steady 30+ mpg.
JosueP5's '03 Protege5 Build Thread.
- Thread starter Josue6WGN
- Start date
What would you guys recommend I do to a used motor before installing? I'd like to "freshen" it up as much as possible while it's out and easily accessible. And I guess if I did that to a higher mileage motor, it should be good for a while, but I understand the random aspect of it.
PrinceValorum
Member
- :
- 95 626 FS, 89 Toyota Derux 4x4
If you got Evan's motor, I'd probably just do the timing belt and water pump, along with new fluids, plugs, wires, etc (basic stuff). If you got another motor, I'd personally want to do almost a complete overhaul, but by the same token, I'd never put an FS back in, lol. Too much work, and too many unknowns/risks. I'm swapping mine to a KL, god willing.
I don't think it would hurt to get an estimate for a rebuild of the current motor. It would at least give you some options.
I haven't had personal experience with them, but I've heard good things about R&R Engine and Machine. http://www.rrengine.com/
I haven't had personal experience with them, but I've heard good things about R&R Engine and Machine. http://www.rrengine.com/
PrinceValorum
Member
- :
- 95 626 FS, 89 Toyota Derux 4x4
Yeah, basically. I'm not an expert, by any means, but this is the only article I can remember reading about the oil burning issue. It sounds like new rings and valve seals would clear it up, but it could easily be a cost-prohibitive, or time-prohibitive job if you do it yourself and need it in a hurry.
http://www.mazda626.net/topic/14223-smoking-tail-pipe/
The thing about rebuilding your current motor is that it could have any number of boost-related issues that a normal N/A motor wouldn't likely see, such as bent rod(s), which could jack up the cost a good deal, I'd imagine. Again, just my thoughts.
http://www.mazda626.net/topic/14223-smoking-tail-pipe/
The thing about rebuilding your current motor is that it could have any number of boost-related issues that a normal N/A motor wouldn't likely see, such as bent rod(s), which could jack up the cost a good deal, I'd imagine. Again, just my thoughts.
I know where that's at, might give 'em a shout just to see what they'd say.
I could see this being an issue. I guess a teardown is the 1st step.
Yes, runs and drives. It was making the knocking/ticking noise SUPER loud on Sunday when Kevin was over checking it out. Then, yesterday at lunch I brought a friend from work over to see the car, and it didn't make the noise? Still was missing and just overall sounded like crap though. lol The only thing different was, there was oil splashing out of the valve cover because it wasn't tight, so I tightened the front 4 bolts.
Did you happen to see any movement in the spark plug wires? It sounds odd but the reason I ask is because number 3 plug backed itself out on my MSM once. The entire plug and plug wire were jumping up and down, making a loud ticking noise. I'd have to hear it to have any better idea. Could be piston slap, rod knock... etc.
sounds maybe like a rod, but I am by no means an expert. Just a guess.
03zoomzoom
Member
- :
- 2012 Mazda 3 i Touring
I've always wanted a set of Nology Hotwires. I've never really heard anything bad about them. I've heard there more of an appearance upgrade than anything else.
03zoomzoom
Member
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- 2012 Mazda 3 i Touring
If you're getting rid of them, put my name on them. I can't seem to find a decent set for a good price.
03zoomzoom
Member
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- 2012 Mazda 3 i Touring
IIRC, they use an older style coil. The proper ones for that motor are coil on plug with 2 wires.
Aah right. The use the setup that was on the FP's and earlier 626 FS's.
