JosueP5's '03 Protege5 Build Thread.

Dang, I really need to do my truck before winter... I gotta get that friggin part in the mail from TWM so I can actually drive the 626 and then we/you can start on the Yota. Great work, man! (2thumbs)
 
Finished getting it ready for winter. :)

-Sprayed the insides of all the body panels I wanted to with the rustproofer.
-Got the passenger side lower engine shield installed.
-Cheapo Sam's Club rubber floor mats.
-Hankook Winter I-Pike's.

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Had to do some trimming, since they're universal fit, but they're working out nicely. Cut a section out so the clutch pedal could be fully depressed, cut around the gas door popper, and cut a slit so the metal holder could be used in not letting the mat slide under my pedals. lol

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And mother fucker....so sick of having water/moisture-ingestion issues!!!

Stopped up at work to wash all the salt off the car (not sure WHY the hell they started salting already, we got like .25" so far. that's why we run out by the end of the year (jerkit) ) Get done, and start to head home. I get down the road about 1/8th of a mile, and the car just shuts OFF?? Cranks, but immediately dies. Check the code, same as always, P0340. Luckily I was close enough to work still that I was able to push it back there so it could sit and dry out, instead of needing to call AAA for a tow home. I sprayed underneath the car a bit, and I must've gotten the filter wet. We have a gated storage area, and I was able to leave the car there for a few hours. Came back later in the day, all was fine.

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ALSO picked up a set of new, OEM floor mats, my old ones were pretty rough. lol Now that I have some rubber mats though, I doubt I'll even use them. I just like to have nice carpet mats for shows/meets, and when I sell the car. Makes the interior look that much nicer. :)

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You still had water issues after the lower splash shield was installed? I just don't get it... I ran that same exact AEM intake for 2-3 years without a single issue and I washed my car weekly with a pressure hose and sprayed under the engine bay every time. That's annoying.
 
P0340 is a camshaft position sensor error. Have a good look at the harness leading up to the sensor as well as the connector to see if you can spot any damage. You might also want to remove the sensor (10mm bolt) and inspect it for damage/rust/ketchup/etc. If you have aftermarket camshaft pulleys that might be causing the problem (but iirc you don't).
 
You still had water issues after the lower splash shield was installed? I just don't get it... I ran that same exact AEM intake for 2-3 years without a single issue and I washed my car weekly with a pressure hose and sprayed under the engine bay every time. That's annoying.

The driver side shield, the one protecting the filter, has been installed for all these water issues. The passenger side, the one covering the belts/pulleys, just got installed last week.

I may have to think of making some kind of SRI setup. I like to spray under my car all winter long to keep the salt build up down, I can't have it leaving me stranded every time I do this.

P0340 is a camshaft position sensor error. Have a good look at the harness leading up to the sensor as well as the connector to see if you can spot any damage. You might also want to remove the sensor (10mm bolt) and inspect it for damage/rust/ketchup/etc. If you have aftermarket camshaft pulleys that might be causing the problem (but iirc you don't).

Yea, that's what my scanner calls it. This is the code is has thrown for all 3 water issues though. Not sure why, it doesn't seem like the 2 issues would be related, but it still throws it?
 
1.) Evan and I were merging onto a highway from another highway. It was absolutely POURING out. We hit a pretty sizable bump, then 500ft later, the car starts bogging/spitting/sputtering when I gave it gas. (not sue how much the bump played a role, or if it was just a coincidence) Pulled over, and it idled fine? Tried to give it gas, and it died. Turned it back on, and again, idled fine. Gave it gas, died. Then it would kick over, but immediately die.

Got a tow home, let it sit overnight, was completely fine the next day.

2.) Wife and I were coming home from the grocery store, again, flipping POURING out. There was a lot of standing water along the curb, but I had to go through some of it. Once I did, car started doing the same thing...bogging/spitting/sputtering when on the gas. It didn't die all together though, and we made it home. (we were only a mile and a half away) Next day, car was fine.

3.) And now this incident. Wasn't raining out, but I did spray pretty good underneath the car, acted up again, was fine a few hours later, which leads me to believe it was the water.

P0340 all 3 times.
 
Causes for P0340 from the service manual:

CMP sensor malfunction
Connector or terminal malfunction
CMP sensor is dirty.
Short to ground between CMP sensor terminal A and PCM terminal 85
Short to ground between CMP sensor terminal B and PCM terminal 86
Open circuit between CMP sensor terminal A and PCM terminal 85
Open circuit between CMP sensor terminal B and PCM terminal 86
CKP sensor pulse wheel malfunction

Check that wire harness!

OR

Perhaps a more "fun" test: run the engine and spray the harness with a spray bottle until something happens :D
 
your car is super clean! I'm wondering if maybe the camshaft sensor is my problem, can't hurt to check that too
 
Thanks Nate!

Causes for P0340 from the service manual:

CMP sensor malfunction
Connector or terminal malfunction
CMP sensor is dirty.
Short to ground between CMP sensor terminal A and PCM terminal 85
Short to ground between CMP sensor terminal B and PCM terminal 86
Open circuit between CMP sensor terminal A and PCM terminal 85
Open circuit between CMP sensor terminal B and PCM terminal 86
CKP sensor pulse wheel malfunction

Check that wire harness!

OR

Perhaps a more "fun" test: run the engine and spray the harness with a spray bottle until something happens :D

That's all Greek to me, so I don't see any of that getting done. lol

When it happened to Evan and I, we thought for sure it was the sensor, and I had a spare one at home. We swapped it, but that didn't help. We did notice one of the wires had a break in the rubber surround pretty close to the connector. I couldn't get any electrical tape around it, so I squirted some RTV sealant around the back of the connector and completely surrounded the wires.

Unless it's some weird electrical gremlin that only comes out with water, but that seems VERY far fetched.
 
Not as far fetched as you may think. It's had an engine swap. ANYTHING can happen after that. Hell, I'm fighting a knock-sensor gremlin on the Civic. I've replaced the sensor (twice), hardwired it and bypassed the factory harness, used the factory harness and jumpered across the connection, a Honda shop even made a new harness for the car from scratch, and used different ECU's. Same issue.


*awaits to get told that Hondas =/= Mazdas, shoddy craftsmanship due to my work habits, the shop who fixed it did it wrong, all sorts of other things from people who don't know the whole story*
 
I have a knock sensor CEL every other time I drive the Milly too. Damn gremlins...
 
Alright, so what does all this mean?

• CMP sensor malfunction

Tried 2, didn't help. It'd be very odd that both were bad though.

• Short to ground between CMP sensor terminal A and PCM terminal 85
• Short to ground between CMP sensor terminal B and PCM terminal 86
• Open circuit between CMP sensor terminal A and PCM terminal 85
• Open circuit between CMP sensor terminal B and PCM terminal 86

Does all this mean I have to open up the looms and trace these 2 wires all the way to the PCM?? No thanks....lol

• CKP sensor pulse wheel malfunction

WTF???

Perhaps a more "fun" test: run the engine and spray the harness with a spray bottle until something happens :D

I guess this doesn't seem that that bad of an idea!
 
Does all this mean I have to open up the looms and trace these 2 wires all the way to the PCM?? No thanks....lol

Not in the least - just disconnect the ECU wiring from your ECU - grab a multimeter and measure the pair of wires in question for a short. If they show no short, then ground them 1 by 1 and look for continuity of the wiring. If they all show shorts on a wire-by-wire basis - then you can burn it down with a match and a little gasoline...lol.

Now - if they show a short - that's a different story. You'll know they are shorted and they have to be repaired .. so yes, you'll have to trace the wires back. Just look at the harness though - it may have burnt spot or you may see fresh shiney copper somewhere. may be an easy fix.
 
Yea....I don't know how to do any if that. haha

I'll have to find someone to help if I ever get around to trying to figure this out. Honestly though, I'm convinced it's a water related issue, and none of the conditions above. I understand "well, it's throwing the code so it HAS to be something with the cam sensor, or else why would the code be thrown?", but I just think the motor gets all out.of whack and it just throws whatever code it wants to. It's too coincidental for water to be a factor in all 3 cases. And even this last time, I didn't even get the hose up high enough to get the top of the motor / harness wet. I just half-assed knelt down and blindly sprayed under the bumper. If I had the hood open and douched the top of the motor, then maybe.
 
Sorry I should have posted the CEL trigger condition for P0340.

This should clear things up:
PCM monitors input voltage from CMP sensor while MAF is above 2.2 g/s {0.29 ib/min}. If PCM does not receive pulse signal the proper pulse signal timing basis on the CKP sensor signal, determines that CMP circuit has malfunction.

So the sensor works, you just have an intermittent short/open-circuit somewhere. Otherwise I doubt the engine would even run...

Another test idea would be to measure the sensor's resistance from the ECU's connector before and after you spray some water in the engine bay. The service manual says that the resistance across the sensor should be 0.95-1.25 kOhms.
 
Sorry I should have posted the CEL trigger condition for P0340.

This should clear things up:


So the sensor works, you just have an intermittent short/open-circuit somewhere. Otherwise I doubt the engine would even run...

Another test idea would be to measure the sensor's resistance from the ECU's connector before and after you spray some water in the engine bay. The service manual says that the resistance across the sensor should be 0.95-1.25 kOhms.


I wonder if there is a chance that the connectors for the sensor may have a crack in it, allowing moisture to enter the plug and cause it to go goofy. Surely isn't out of the realm of possibilities when you mix water and electronics.
 
Got my header swapped out today for OEM. I can't believe how much quieter it is now! It's a whole new car...

Still has some drone on the highway though, but the only thing to do now, is get rid of the exhaust all together. Maybe go OEM, then get an axle back or something and see how that sounds. I love the tip and where it sits on the car, but this is a complete Magnaflow system, not just an axle back, so it's either all or nothing. I have 6 months to decide which way I want to go from here.


I LOVE using this alignment rack as my own personal lift now. :D

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